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The 1947 Partition of Punjab displaced families, split communities across a new border and sharply disrupted the household networks through which women made and passed on phulkari. Many embroidered textiles were abandoned or destroyed during the upheaval, and production declined on both sides of the divided region. The tradition survived, however, and later found new life in commercial work, museums, diaspora communities and fashion.
What phulkari meant before Partition
Phulkari—often translated as “flower work” or “flower craft”—was practised across the greater Punjab from at least the early nineteenth century. Women embroidered brightly coloured silk thread onto coarse cloth, making textiles that belonged to everyday household life as well as important ceremonies.
Shawls and odhinis were worn at weddings and other significant events. Embroidered cloth could also form part of a dowry, serve as bedding or a blanket, cover furniture, or hang as decoration. A piece was therefore more than a display of needlework: it could carry family history, social meaning and hopes for good fortune.
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Outbyte PC Repair FREEClear out junk files and repair common Windows errorsFree Scan →Outbyte Driver Updater FREEScan for outdated or missing drivers - takes under a minuteDriver Scan →The Philadelphia Museum of Art’s collection material presents phulkari as a way to record lives and relationships through textile. Co-curator Cristin McKnight Sethi describes the works as “canvases upon which a woman could express her desires and worldview through needle and thread.”
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How Partition disrupted the tradition
In 1947, Punjab was divided between India and Pakistan. The mostly Muslim west became Pakistan’s Punjab, while the mostly Sikh and Hindu east became India’s Punjab. Mass displacement and violence forced families to flee, often with little time to gather belongings. The Philadelphia Museum of Art records that many phulkaris were abandoned or destroyed, and that production “declined significantly in both halves” of the region.
The damage was not only the loss of individual textiles. Phulkari was a domestic practice sustained through women’s family and community relationships. It is reasonable to understand the scattering of households, villages and kin groups as weakening the ordinary pathways for teaching techniques, making new pieces and inheriting older ones. That is an interpretation of the documented displacement and decline, not a measured count of lost makers or lessons.
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The Partition Museum gives the scale of the wider human upheaval some context: a 2020 Government of India Press Information Bureau release cited its estimate that up to 20 million people were affected. This figure concerns Partition’s human impact; it is not an estimate of phulkari pieces lost.
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How phulkari changed after 1947
Partition did not bring phulkari to a clean or immediate end. In the decades that followed, the embroidery also entered commercial export markets. Over roughly the next half-century, techniques and patterns experienced a revival, particularly as commercial art. Museums describe contemporary fashion, popular culture and diaspora display as helping make phulkari a symbol of Punjabi regional pride and Sikh identity.
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That revival brought visibility and new audiences, but the context of making and wearing a textile could change along with it. The contrast is not absolute: household use, commercial production and contemporary display can overlap. The table describes broad shifts rather than a single replacement of one kind of phulkari by another.
| Aspect | Earlier household and community context | Later commercial and public context |
|---|---|---|
| Use | Dowry, wedding and ceremonial dress, bedding, blankets, furniture covers and hangings. | Fashion, export and public display. |
| Production | Domestic making passed through family and community networks. | Commercial and institutional settings became important alongside inherited practice. |
| Design and meaning | Geometric and figurative designs related to village life, status and good fortune. | Designs could also express regional identity and appear in contemporary fashion and popular culture. |
| Audience | Family, local community and the people who used or inherited a textile. | Museums, Punjabi diaspora communities and fashion consumers. |
Why “almost killed” is a description, not a statistic
The phrase captures the severity of the rupture: displacement, the destruction or abandonment of heirlooms, and a significant decline in production on both sides of the new border. But it should not be read as proof that phulkari disappeared, or that its losses can be expressed as a known percentage. The cited museum records do not establish a count of destroyed pieces, a precise decline in makers or one official date when revival began.
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What the record does show is a tradition changed by violence and migration, then carried into new settings. Its survival is visible in commercial work, museum collections, diaspora memory and fashion, even as these settings differ from the household relationships that once sustained much of its making.
Where to encounter the history
The Partition Museum preserves survivor-donated artefacts and oral histories, which place material culture within individual experiences of displacement. For a substantial collection-based account of the textiles themselves, the Philadelphia Museum of Art’s 2017 hardcover catalogue, Phulkari: The Embroidered Textiles of Punjab from the Jill and Sheldon Bonovitz Collection, brings together collection images and historical essays.
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