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Bathroom Vanity Makeover Day 5: Before-and-After Reveal and Build Details

The Day 5 reveal transforms an existing vanity with Behr Arizona Tan paint, handmade plywood-and-trim doors, and a Golden Oak–stained cedar fence-picket countertop—while the rest of the bathroom remains in progress.

By ThatPainter Team 18 October 2026
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Day 5 reveals a completed vanity phase, not a finished bathroom. Kristi Linauer kept the existing vanity cabinet, painted it Behr Arizona Tan—a “soft muted golden yellow”—built new doors, and replaced the old laminate top with a cedar-fence-picket countertop stained Golden Oak. The walls, large builder-grade mirror, and cabinet above the toilet were still scheduled for later work.

What the vanity looked like before and after

The project is best understood as a refinish and reface of the existing vanity, rather than a documented cabinet replacement. The cabinet itself remained in place. The visible transformation came from a new paint color, newly constructed door and drawer fronts, and a handmade wood countertop.

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Bathroom vanity scope on Day 5
Element Before After the vanity phase
Cabinet box Existing vanity cabinet Same cabinet, painted Behr Arizona Tan
Doors and drawer fronts Existing fronts New plywood-and-trim fronts made from scratch
Countertop Laminate top Cedar fence pickets over plywood, framed with cedar and stained Golden Oak
Bathroom as a whole Existing room Still in progress; walls, mirror, and the cabinet above the toilet remained

Arizona Tan is the name used in the 2013 reveal. Linauer describes it as a soft, muted golden yellow, but the post does not provide a paint formula, sheen, or current product line. Those details should not be inferred from the old project name because paint formulas and availability can change.

How the cedar countertop was built

1. Remove the old top and make a stable base

The previous laminate countertop was removed first. Linauer cut a 3/4-inch plywood panel to serve as the new base. The plywood provided the shape and support while the fence pickets supplied the visible wood surface.

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  • Large Storage Space: Tidy up your bathroom and utilizethe storage space beneath the bathroom vanity to maintain cleanliness. Theample space under the sink cabinet offers convenience for installing pipes. Youcan store items like towels, toilet paper, and soap in the bottom drawer
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  • Maximum Load-bearing Capacity: The ceramic basin and the shelfcan hold up to 30kg, and the drawer can hold 20kg. The freestanding floor cabinet is strong and can bear the weight of your daily necessities; however,to ensure normal use, please do not put anything overweight on the shelves
  • Built for Everyday Use: With double doors, sturdy metal handles, and smooth-sliding rails, this bathroom vanity offers convenient access to stored items. Floor-protective pads at the bottom prevent unwanted scratches and wear. And for proper installation, the height from the ground to the wall drain and the water inlet of the water pipe should be between 18.3 and 26.4 inches

2. Attach the fence pickets

Cedar fence pickets were laid over the plywood and attached with Liquid Nails and a brad nailer. The combination gave the boards adhesive coverage plus mechanical fastening while the adhesive set. Linauer noted that clamps and weights alone could have been used with Liquid Nails if she had been more patient: “If I were a patient person, I could have just used clamps and weights to attach the boards with Liquid Nails only.”

3. Sand and frame the edges

After the pickets were secured, the surface was sanded. The front and side edges were covered with 1-by-2 cedar boards, creating a finished frame around the picket field and hiding the plywood edge.

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4. Cut the sink opening

The sink cutout was marked and cut with a jigsaw. This is the point at which accurate measurement matters most: the opening must match the actual sink and leave enough material around it for support and a clean finished edge. The tutorial describes the method used for this vanity; it does not establish universal dimensions for other cabinets or sinks.

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5. Stain the surface

The completed wood top was stained Golden Oak. At the time of the tutorial, polyurethane had not yet been applied. Linauer planned to add several coats after deciding that the color was right. Consequently, the post documents an unfinished protection step, not a tested water-resistance result or a long-term durability record.

How the new doors and drawer fronts were made

Cut plywood panels to the existing openings

The door tutorial starts with 1/2-inch plywood cut to the required door and drawer-front sizes. Those sizes are specific to the vanity shown. Measure each opening and account for the existing hinges, reveals, and overlay before cutting; the project method is transferable, but its dimensions are not.

Build the face frame from trim

Trim was cut to frame each plywood panel. Wood glue and 3/4-inch brads from a brad nailer attached the trim. Narrow edge trim was added where needed to finish the profile and cover exposed plywood edges.

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  • Premium Ceramic Sink: Crafted with high-temperature firing technology, this integrated ceramic sink features a smooth, non-porous glazed finish that resists stains and buildup for easy maintenance, along with three 4-inch center-set faucet holes (faucet not included) and an overflow channel.
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Fill, sand, and prepare for paint

Nail holes and small gaps were filled, then the pieces were sanded. This preparation is what turns a simple plywood panel into a paint-ready front: the fastener holes and joints are dealt with before the color coat is applied.

Tools named in the build

  • Circular saw for breaking down plywood and trim.
  • Miter saw for making accurate trim cuts.
  • Brad nailer with 3/4-inch brads for attaching the trim.
  • Jigsaw for the sink opening in the countertop.

The tutorial presents these as the basic tools used for this build. It does not claim that every vanity requires this exact tool list; a different cabinet layout or finish detail may call for additional measuring, clamping, or cutting equipment.

What the countertop cost in the original project

The companion countertop tutorial itemizes a historical 2013 materials total of $34.11. The Day 5 reveal rounds that figure to “$35.” The amount is a record of that project, not a current estimate: prices, regional stock, and the supplies a builder already owns can all change.

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2013 countertop material itemization reported by Addicted 2 Decorating
Material Recorded cost
Four cedar fence pickets $7.88
One 1-by-2-by-8-foot cedar board $2.46
One 2-by-4-foot plywood panel $15.65
Golden Oak stain $4.78
Liquid Nails $3.34
Total $34.11

Other supplies were already on hand, so the total does not represent every possible expense. It also excludes the value of tools and labor.

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How long the countertop took

Linauer estimated about three hours to make the countertop. That is her estimate for this particular vanity and build sequence, not a general production rate. Measuring, fitting a sink, correcting imperfect boards, waiting for adhesive, and applying a later protective finish can make another installation take longer.

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Sealing and water-performance questions

Readers asked what was used to seal the top and how it held up to water over time. The relevant tutorial says the polyurethane step had not happened when the post was written; several coats were planned after the stain color was finalized. The available account therefore cannot establish long-term water performance, maintenance intervals, or resistance around the sink.

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If you are adapting the idea, treat the protective finish as a required decision before regular bathroom use rather than assuming that stained cedar is complete when the stain dries. Choose and apply the finish according to its label and the conditions around your sink, and allow the stated curing time before exposing the surface to routine splashes. Those practical precautions are separate from the historical project record, which stops before documented polyurethane application or durability testing.

What Day 5 did not include

The post calls this phase a finished vanity reveal, not the final bathroom reveal. Linauer identified three remaining areas for the next phase:

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  • The bathroom walls.
  • The large builder-grade mirror.
  • The cabinet above the toilet.

That distinction matters when interpreting the before-and-after photographs. The vanity can be complete while the room still has prominent unfinished elements.

Retaining, refacing, or replacing: questions to ask before copying the idea

This project offers a way to change the appearance of a sound cabinet without documenting a full replacement. Whether that approach fits your bathroom depends on conditions the posts do not compare for you. Use these questions to decide which path deserves a closer look:

  • Is the existing cabinet worth keeping? Inspect the box, floor, plumbing area, and attachment points before investing in new fronts or a top.
  • Can you measure and fit around the current layout? Door overlays, drawer openings, sink position, wall clearances, and plumbing determine whether a custom reface will sit correctly.
  • Do you have the tools and skill for accurate trim work? The documented method uses a circular saw, miter saw, brad nailer, jigsaw, filler, and sanding; substitute tools may change the precision and finish.
  • What finish will tolerate your use? The historical account had not yet documented polyurethane application or water testing, so your protection plan needs to be explicit.
  • Is the desired look worth the maintenance? A stained wood surface, painted cabinet, or replacement top can each demand different touch-up and cleaning habits; the posts do not provide a comparative maintenance study.

A practical sequence for adapting the build

  1. Measure the existing cabinet, every door and drawer opening, the sink, and the wall clearances. Record hinge locations and overlays before ordering or cutting material.
  2. Remove the laminate top carefully and check that the cabinet is level and sound. Repair the base before adding a new surface.
  3. Cut the 3/4-inch plywood base to the measured footprint, then dry-fit the cedar pickets and mark the sink opening.
  4. Attach the pickets with construction adhesive and brad nails, keeping board ends aligned and allowing adhesive to set as directed.
  5. Sand the surface, add the 1-by-2 cedar edge frame, and cut the sink opening with a jigsaw.
  6. Apply the chosen stain and evaluate the color in the actual bathroom light before committing to a protective topcoat.
  7. Cut 1/2-inch plywood for each door and drawer front, build the trim frames with glue and 3/4-inch brads, fill holes, and sand smooth.
  8. Paint the prepared cabinet and new fronts in the selected color, then reinstall and adjust the hardware so the reveals are even.
  9. Apply the countertop’s protective finish according to its product instructions and wait for full cure before normal wet use.
  10. Continue the room makeover separately: the Day 5 account leaves the walls, mirror, and over-toilet cabinet for later.

Dates and evidence to keep in mind

The primary vanity reveal is dated January 25, 2013. The countertop tutorial identifies an August 6, 2023 update, and the cabinet-door tutorial identifies a February 14, 2025 update. The techniques and prices above remain historical descriptions of this project. Current paint formulas, retail prices, stock, and affiliate terms are not established by those posts and should be checked independently before buying materials.

Product prices and availability are accurate as of the date/time indicated and are subject to change. Any price and availability information displayed on Amazon at the time of purchase will apply.

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