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Build this compact Greek key side table by cutting a simple 2-by-2 frame, making the repeating lower supports from accurately templated miters, adding a half-inch MDF top, and painting the filled and caulked assembly. The method below follows Kristi Linauer’s documented build while identifying the measurements, tools, tolerances, and adaptations that matter when you make your own.
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Kristi Linauer’s tutorial, published January 6, 2014 and updated January 7, 2014, describes a finished table measuring 14 inches square and just under 24 inches tall. Her frame uses 2-by-2 lumber, a half-inch MDF top, glue, and finishing nails. The lower rails are assembled as separate Greek key sections rather than cut from one complicated piece. You can see the original sequence and photographs in DIY Side Table With Greek Key Base.
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The design is small enough for a sofa, reading chair, or bedside position, but the Greek key pattern makes accurate repeat cuts more important than the size of the project suggests. The frame is built upside down on a flat surface, then the decorative supports are positioned with scrap spacers so the pattern sits at a consistent height on every leg.
Cut list from the documented build
| Part | Quantity and size | Material or purpose |
|---|---|---|
| Legs | 4 pieces, 23 inches long | 2-by-2 lumber |
| Upper cross supports | 4 pieces, 11 inches long | 2-by-2 lumber |
| Top | One 14-by-14-inch panel | Half-inch MDF |
| Base stock | Three 8-foot lengths for one table | Straight 2-by-2 lumber |
| Pair of tables | Five 8-foot lengths reported for two tables | Author’s project quantity; recalculate for your stock |
The 2-by-2 quantities are Linauer’s report for this particular layout. Lumber sold under the same nominal label can differ in actual width, and defects or a changed cut plan can increase waste. Lay out every cut on the boards you actually bought before cutting.
Gather materials, tools, and a safe work area
- Straight 2-by-2 lumber for the legs, upper supports, and Greek key pieces.
- A half-inch MDF panel for the top, cut to 14 inches square in this version.
- Small 1-by-2 scraps for temporary spacers and stop blocks.
- Wood glue.
- 2-inch, 18-gauge finishing nails for the main frame and for attaching the completed decorative supports.
- 1.25-inch finishing nails for joining the individual Greek key sections.
- A miter saw, a clamp, and a flat assembly surface.
- Wood filler, caulk for angled joints, 220-grit sandpaper, spray primer, and spray paint.
The miter saw is the critical tool because the pattern relies on repeated 45-degree cuts. Wear eye and hearing protection, keep hands outside the saw’s marked danger zone, and support long stock so it cannot twist as the blade exits.
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Choose and inspect the 2-by-2s
Linauer specifically recommends buying straighter stock instead of inexpensive furring strips, which are often warped. Sight down each board, rotate it to check all four faces, and reject pieces with a pronounced bow, twist, or damaged edge. A warped leg can make a small table rock even when the joints are tight. Keep the best boards for the four legs and reserve less perfect material for short decorative pieces only if the defects can be cut away.
Make the four legs and four cross supports
Cut four legs at 23 inches and four cross supports at 11 inches. Label matching parts as you cut them. Keeping the same reference face against the saw fence helps the pieces stay consistent. Do not assume a nominal 2-by-2 is exactly two inches in either direction; the documented lengths refer to the cut lengths, while your actual stock dimensions determine the visible spacing and how the top sits.
Cut the MDF top only after checking the assembled base. The plan calls for a 14-inch square, but a test layout lets you confirm that the top overhang looks even with your lumber’s actual dimensions. A half-inch panel is light and easy to cut, yet its edges need careful sanding and sealing because MDF fibers can look fuzzy under paint.
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Build the Greek key supports with a repeatable template
The decorative lower supports are made from multiple short pieces. The source does not specify a universal length for every small segment; the reliable way to reproduce the pattern is to create one accurate piece, use it as a template, and repeat that reference rather than measuring each segment independently.
Set up a stop for repeated 45-degree cuts
- Cut the first 45-degree end on a piece of 2-by-2.
- Place a scrap block against the miter-saw fence at the length you need for the repeated segment.
- Clamp the scrap securely so it becomes a stop guide.
- Butt each new piece against the stop before making the matching cut.
- Keep the same face of the stock oriented toward the fence for every piece.
This stop method prevents small hand-measuring differences from changing the Greek key rhythm. Make a dry layout on the floor or workbench before gluing; the miters should turn in the same direction and form a continuous stepped path.
Use one original template for the end pieces
For the end sections, Linauer cuts one first piece as a template, then alternates 45-degree and 90-degree cuts. Trace or hold that original piece against every later blank. Do not switch to a newer piece as your reference: tiny differences can accumulate and leave the final turn out of alignment. Mark the 45-degree faces with a pencil so you can identify the waste side before each cut.
Mark the center pieces by flipping the board
The middle pieces are marked by flipping the board and reusing the first piece as the template. Flipping preserves the mirrored relationship required by the Greek key. Check each dry-fit joint on a flat surface; a pattern that looks correct when held in the air can reveal a twist when laid down.
Assemble each support section
Linauer assembles the two ends before adding the center section. Apply a thin, continuous film of wood glue to the mating faces, align the edges, and secure the joints with 1.25-inch finishing nails. Wipe away squeeze-out while it is fresh, but leave enough glue in the joint to bond the end grain. Allow the sections to become stable before handling them as one piece.
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Assemble and square the upside-down frame
Lay out the legs and upper supports
Place the four 23-inch legs upside down on a genuinely flat surface. Position the four 11-inch cross supports between them to form the upper square of the base. Apply glue to the contacting faces, clamp or hold the parts flush, and drive 2-inch, 18-gauge finishing nails. Working upside down keeps the leg ends on the same plane while you establish the frame.
Check the geometry before the glue sets
Measure the two diagonals of the square frame. If they differ, push the assembly gently until the measurements match, then add the remaining nails. Confirm that each leg is perpendicular to the support it meets and that no leg rocks on the work surface. Remove glue squeeze-out from visible faces before it hardens.
Position the decorative supports
Use small scrap spacers near the bottoms of the legs to set the Greek key supports at a repeatable height. Place the completed support sections around the base, check that the pattern is level from side to side, and verify that the turns face consistently. Attach the supports to the legs with 2-inch finishing nails and glue at the contact points. The spacers are a positioning aid, not a permanent part of the design; remove them after the adhesive has cured if they are not intended to remain.
Fit the MDF top and create the reveal
Cut the half-inch MDF to the planned footprint, then soften its edges with sandpaper. In Linauer’s build, small glued spacers create a visible gap between the top and the base. Dry-fit those spacers and the panel before applying glue so the reveal is even on all four sides. If one corner sits high, correct the frame or spacer rather than sanding an arbitrary amount from the top.
Decide whether the top should be permanently glued, screwed from below, or simply fixed with the method appropriate to your indoor use. The documented project uses glued spacers; it does not establish a universal attachment method for every adaptation. Whatever method you choose, avoid fasteners long enough to break through the MDF surface.
Prepare every joint for paint
Fill nail holes and flat-plane seams
After the glue dries, press wood filler into nail holes and seams that lie on the same plane. Let the filler dry fully, then sand it flush. Run your fingertips over the surface under raking light; paint will highlight even shallow depressions that are difficult to see straight on.
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Caulk angled transitions
Use caulk where two pieces meet at an angle, especially around the stepped Greek key turns. Filler is rigid and can telegraph a hairline crack at a moving or angled joint, while a paintable caulk can close that visual gap. Apply a narrow bead, tool it smooth, and remove excess before it skins. Follow the caulk manufacturer’s curing instructions before priming.
Prime and sand
Linauer reports applying two coats of spray primer and sanding with 220-grit paper before painting. Use light, even passes so you do not round over the crisp Greek key corners. Vacuum or wipe away sanding dust between coats. MDF edges may absorb more primer than the face; inspect them after the first coat and spot-prime any areas that still look porous.
Independent reader supportYour contribution helps us test, update, and keep practical guides available for everyone.Paint the base and top as separate surfaces
Paint the base and MDF panel where you can reach all faces without trapping drips in the decorative recesses. Several thin coats generally preserve detail better than one heavy coat. Keep the spray can or gun moving before you cross an edge, and let each coat dry according to its product directions. Sand only as much as needed between coats; excessive sanding can expose MDF fibers or cut through a sharp corner.
Paint the underside and the spacer area as carefully as the visible top. When the table is placed beside a low chair, the underside of the Greek key is easy to see. After the final coat cures, set the table on a level floor and check for rocking. A small, discreet felt pad can correct a minor floor irregularity, but a substantial wobble indicates a frame or leg problem that should be fixed rather than hidden.
Time and cost figures, with their limits
For her build, Linauer says assembly took about 30 minutes per table after the pieces had been cut. Filling, sanding, and caulking took considerably longer. She also reported that supplies for two tables cost around $60 and that the pair represented a $509 saving compared with her inspiration table. Those figures come from a January 2014 personal project and are not current retail prices or an independent cost comparison. Lumber prices, paint quantities, taxes, and local availability can change the total substantially.
Troubleshoot the problems that affect this pattern most
The Greek key turns do not meet
Recheck the original template and the direction of every 45-degree mark. If you changed templates midway, remake the affected run from the first verified piece. A stop block is more dependable than repeatedly reading a tape measure for short segments.
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The support sits at different heights on the legs
Use equal scrap spacers at each leg while positioning the support. Measure from the same reference point on every leg, and tack only after the support is level. If the legs themselves differ in length, correct them on a flat surface before installing the pattern.
Joints show gaps after painting
Separate structural gaps from surface defects. Re-glue or recut a joint that does not close; use wood filler for nail holes and same-plane seams; use paintable caulk for angled transitions. Covering a loose joint with filler will not make the frame stronger.
The table rocks
Set the upside-down frame on a flat surface and compare leg ends before attaching the top. A warped 2-by-2 or a leg cut out of square is the usual cause. Correct the wood or recut the part, then recheck both diagonals and the floor contact.
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Soften the edge, sand it smooth, and apply enough primer to seal the fibers before the finish coat. Avoid flooding the edge with paint, which can raise the surface and erase the clean square profile.
Adapting the design without losing its character
If you need a different height or footprint, change the leg and cross-support plan together rather than stretching only one dimension. The finished height, top size, stock straightness, repeat-cut accuracy, fastening method, and top material all affect the result. Make a full-size layout with scrap before committing to lumber so the Greek key remains visually balanced around the new proportions.
A different material can work, but it changes preparation. MDF gives a smooth paintable face and a half-inch thickness in the documented version. Plywood, solid wood, or a thicker panel may require different edge treatment, spacer heights, and fastener lengths. Treat the 14-inch top and just-under-24-inch height as this project’s reference, not a requirement for every room.
How a related Greek key coffee-table plan differs
A separate plan from Designs by Studio C uses a larger coffee-table structure with pocket-hole joinery, a router fitted with a 3/8-inch rabbeting bit, and a glass or Plexiglas top. It is not a like-for-like substitute for this side table: the documented side table uses a glued-and-nailed 2-by-2 frame and an MDF top. Review the other approach at Coffee Table Plans in a Greek Key Style! only if you are intentionally changing the scale, joinery, or top material.
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Final quality checklist
- All four legs are the same cut length and sit solidly on a flat surface.
- The upper frame’s diagonals match before the glue cures.
- Every repeated Greek key piece came from the same original template.
- 45-degree and 90-degree cuts alternate in the intended sequence.
- Decorative supports are level and use equal spacers near the leg bottoms.
- Nail holes and flat seams are filled and sanded flush.
- Angled joints are caulked, and the caulk has cured before primer.
- Two primer coats and a smooth 220-grit sanding pass leave no exposed porous MDF.
- The top reveal is even, and the finished table does not rock.
The project succeeds through repeatable cutting and patient surface preparation more than through complicated joinery. Straight stock, one trusted template, and a careful paint-ready finish turn a basic square frame into a crisp Greek key side table.
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