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Kristi Linauer’s June 20, 2016 project shows how she converted cane-back dining chairs into upholstered, button-tufted chairs intended to flank an entryway buffet. In this first installment, she rebuilt weak frame areas, upholstered the seats, prepared the cane backs, made the tufting and solved the problem of anchoring cords through flexible cane. The skirt itself is not fully constructed here; Linauer directs readers to a separate follow-up for the completed chair.
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Her method is a detailed project record rather than a universal upholstery specification. The foam thicknesses, frame cuts and cord hardware were chosen for these chairs and this design. Linauer describes the work as substantial and says it is more suitable for someone with some upholstery experience than for a quick beginner project.
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The starting point was a pair of cane-back dining chairs. Linauer planned to upholster the seats and backs, add visible button tufting, and finish the chairs with a skirt so they could sit on either side of an entryway buffet. She planned a different treatment for the chairs that would remain at the dining table, so this account should not be read as a single prescription for every chair in a set.
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The work documented in Part 1 ends after the tufting on the backs. It does not give a complete skirt-making tutorial. A separate completion post shows the finished chair and addresses the later stage. That distinction matters because a reader looking for skirt measurements or attachment details will not find a full set of those instructions in this installment.
Linauer later characterized the job plainly: “This is definitely not a project I’d put in the ‘quick and easy’ category.” That is her assessment of this particular makeover, not a rule that all chair upholstery takes the same amount of time.
Materials and tools named in Linauer’s account
The post names the materials she used, but it does not provide a complete shopping list, quantities for every item, or a total project cost. Treat the list below as a record of her build, then measure your own chairs before buying supplies.
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|---|---|---|
| Plywood | Replacement seat bases, glued and nailed to the chair frames | Cut to fit the individual frames |
| Scrap wood | Blocks to square the upper corners and a support at the lower edge of each cut cane back | Dimensions were project-specific and are not stated as a standard size |
| High-density foam | 2 inches on the seat; 1 inch on the back | Those thicknesses describe Linauer’s chairs |
| Spray adhesive | Held foam to the plywood seat and cane-back assembly | Use an adhesive suitable for upholstery foam and your substrate |
| High-density polyester batting | Two layers over the seat foam and two layers over the back foam | Layer count is Linauer’s process |
| Upholstery fabric | Seat and back covering; leftover Roman-shade fabric covered the buttons | Allow extra fabric for wrapping, sewing corners and tufting |
| 7/8-inch cover buttons | Visible tuft buttons on the back | Buttons were covered with leftover fabric |
| Button cord and a long upholstery needle | Threaded through the cane and tied behind each button | The cord path is dictated by the open cane backing |
| 1/4-inch dowel rod | Short pieces used as rear anchors for the tuft cords | Linauer reported using 12 pieces on the back in this installment |
| Narrow-crown stapler and 1/2-inch staples | Secured the seat fabric and other upholstery work | She reported that the narrow crown, small staples and small grommet helped in tight spots and grooves; this is her experience, not an independent tool test |
Linauer named a Porter-Cable narrow-crown stapler and identified the staples as 1/2-inch narrow-crown staples. The original page marked the stapler link as an affiliate link, so any current model, price, listing and availability must be checked independently rather than assumed from the 2016 post.
Step 1: Modify the chair frame before adding padding
Square the upper corners
Linauer removed the small finials at the upper corners of the chairs. She then squared those corners by gluing and nailing wood blocks into the openings. This created a more regular edge for the upholstered back and the later fabric work.
Removing finials and adding blocks is not automatically necessary on every cane chair. It depends on the chair’s ornament, the shape you want under the fabric and whether the existing frame can accept a secure glued-and-nailed repair. Dry-fit the upholstery layers before committing to a cut so the new corner does not create a bump beneath the finished cover.
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Replace damaged seat bases
The original particleboard seat bases were damaged, so Linauer replaced them with plywood. She glued and nailed the plywood to the chair frames. A sound base is important because the foam, batting and fabric all transfer pressure to it, and the staples need a stable edge to bite into.
Use the old base as a tracing guide only after checking whether it is still square and whether the frame has changed. Mark the front, back and side orientation on the template, test the plywood in the frame, and make sure the perimeter leaves enough solid wood for staples without interfering with the chair rails.
Cut away part of the lower cane
To make room for foam and fabric, Linauer cut away a portion of the lower cane back. After the cut, she added a scrap-lumber support along the lower edge and stapled the remaining cane to that support. The support gave the flexible cane a defined edge and a place to be secured before the foam went on.
This is a structural alteration, not a decorative shortcut. Inspect how the cane is attached to your chair and identify where the frame can carry the new load. Cutting a different section, or cutting without a replacement support, could leave the back unstable. Linauer’s cut and support arrangement belongs to her chair geometry.
Step 2: Build and upholster the seat
Attach and shape the foam
Linauer used 2-inch high-density foam on the plywood seat. She held it in place with spray adhesive and shaped it with an electric knife. The thickness is a project dimension, not a required standard for dining chairs; seat height, rail clearance and the look you want may call for another choice.
Cut with the blade held vertically and make controlled passes so the edge remains even. Check the foam against the chair before adding batting: the cushion should not force the frame apart, cover screw or nail locations, or prevent the chair from sliding under a table.
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Sew the front-corner angles
Rather than trying to force flat fabric around the front corners, Linauer sewed the angles into the seat fabric. Sewing the corner shape first lets the cover follow the foam and produces a cleaner transition than folding a large excess of fabric underneath.
Mark each corner from the actual seat, keep the seam allowances consistent, and test the sewn cover inside out before turning it over the foam. Chairs are rarely perfectly symmetrical, so one corner’s pattern should not be assumed to fit the other without checking.
Add batting and staple the cover
She wrapped two layers of high-density polyester batting around the seat foam, then fitted the fabric and secured it with 1/2-inch narrow-crown staples. Work in a balanced sequence: place a few staples at the center of the front, back and sides, check the grain and tension, then continue toward the corners. Trim bulk before closing the final areas, but leave enough material to prevent the staples from pulling out.
Linauer found the narrow crown, small staples and small grommet useful for reaching tight spots and grooves. That observation explains why she selected that stapler for this job; it does not establish that the tool is best for every upholstery frame.
Step 3: Prepare the cane back for upholstery
Secure the lower edge
After cutting the cane, Linauer stapled it to the scrap-lumber support at the lower edge. This step stabilized the open backing before the foam covered it. Confirm that the cane is flat and firmly held, because movement underneath the foam will show as a soft spot or distorted tuft.
Apply the back foam
She used 1-inch high-density foam on the back, thinner than the 2-inch seat foam. Spray adhesive held the foam in place. She wrapped the foam over the edges and stapled along the top and sides.
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Keep the edge wrap even and avoid burying staples where the final fabric must fold. The back foam must also leave room for the batting, fabric and button depressions; adding layers changes the finished thickness and can affect how the chair meets a wall or buffet.
Step 4: Lay out the tufts and form the depressions
Mark button positions before cutting
Linauer marked the button locations on the back foam, then cut the foam away at those positions. Removing foam at each mark creates space for the batting and button depression rather than merely compressing the surface.
Measure from the actual upholstered area and use a straightedge or template to keep rows aligned. Check the pattern from several feet away before making any cuts; once foam is removed, a misplaced tuft is difficult to disguise.
Add batting and work from the center outward
She added two layers of batting over the back foam and formed the depressions for the buttons. Her sequence was to work near the center and then move outward. That order helps distribute tension and reduces the chance that the outer fabric will become tight before the central pattern is settled.
Pull the fabric firmly enough to remove wrinkles, but do not stretch it so aggressively that the weave becomes distorted. At each tuft, keep the button face square to the pattern and check neighboring folds before setting the cord permanently.
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Cover and install the buttons
The buttons were 7/8-inch cover buttons. Linauer covered them with leftover Roman-shade fabric, allowing the buttons to coordinate with the chair instead of introducing a contrasting trim. Prepare all buttons before the final tufting pass so the fabric can be checked for consistent grain and coverage.
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- FULL PROTECT: Safeguard your dining chairs from stains, dirt, and dog hair as they update furniture to fit your evolving style. A quick, budget-friendly way to prep for formal dinners, family parties, or even a change of season, this slipcover is a perfect pick. A must have for homes with kids, dogs and cats, allowing it to perfectly combine style and durability
- GREAT FIT: These slipcovers are one-size-fits-most. Suitable for normal and high back dining chairs. Fit chair back height: 19-26 inches; chair back width: 16-19 inches; chair seat width: 14-19 inches; chair seat depth: 14-18 inches, thickness: 2-4 inches. Kindly measure before ordering. Flexible fit and easy to tuck, strapless and elasticized on the bottom so that it stays in place without shifting or moving
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Step 5: Anchor tuft cords through cane without tearing the backing
The cane created the project’s most important technical difference. On a solid backing, a tuft cord can be secured with a staple or a screw and washer. Linauer says those methods were used on other projects: staples on MDF in a prior headboard and screws with washers on MDF or plywood in an ottoman. The open, flexible cane on these chairs could not safely take those anchors.
Thread each cord through the chair
- Insert the long upholstery needle from the back of the cane through the marked tuft position.
- Bring the needle through to the button on the upholstered face.
- Pass the cord back through the same tuft path to the rear.
- On the back, tie the cord around a short piece of 1/4-inch dowel rod rather than pulling it against a single cane strand.
- Seat the button to the desired depth, then secure the cord while checking the folds on the front.
The dowel spreads the pull over a short length behind the cane. Linauer reported finishing the tufting in this installment with 12 dowel pieces on the back. The exact number for another chair will depend on its button layout.
Do not substitute a staple or screw into cane simply because it worked on a plywood panel. A concentrated pull can split or deform the cane. The anchor must match the backing material and leave enough room for the fabric to sit flat.
The Tool Desk
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| Area | Linauer’s recorded choice | What it affects |
|---|---|---|
| Seat foam | 2 inches, high-density | Seat height, comfort and clearance under the table |
| Back foam | 1 inch, high-density | Back profile and room for tuft depressions |
| Batting | Two layers on the seat; two layers on the back | Softness, edge fullness and how deeply buttons can sit |
| Buttons | 7/8-inch cover buttons | Visual scale of the tuft pattern |
| Rear cord anchors | Short 1/4-inch dowel pieces; 12 reported on the back in Part 1 | Load distribution through the cane |
| Seat staples | 1/2-inch narrow-crown staples | Attachment of fabric to the seat frame |
These values document one makeover. They are not a tested upholstery standard, and the post does not supply independent measurements of comfort, durability or tool performance.
Common failure points and practical checks
- Uneven corners: Confirm the foam and sewn fabric angles against the plywood before stapling. A corner that is wrong at the base will remain wrong under the batting.
- Loose cane after cutting: Add a solid support at the cut edge and attach the cane to it before covering the back, as Linauer did.
- Wrinkled tufting: Recheck the button grid, work from the center outward and balance tension between opposite sides.
- Cords damaging cane: Use a rear spreader such as the short dowel pieces Linauer selected instead of concentrating the load on one strand.
- Staples showing or failing: Keep staples in solid frame material, use the 1/2-inch length recorded for the seat, and trim excess fabric so folds do not push the staple crown up.
- Unexpected chair height: Dry-fit the complete foam-and-batting stack before final upholstery. Two inches of seat foam plus two batting layers can change the sitting height enough to affect a table or desk.
What Part 1 does—and does not—tell you about the skirt
The chairs were intended to have a skirted look, but this installment stops before a full skirt construction explanation. A reader comment specifically asked for a skirt tutorial, and the linked follow-up is where Linauer shows the completed chair. Use that later post for the skirt’s construction and attachment details rather than inferring a pattern from the tufting steps here.
The same comment discussion includes Linauer’s dated reply that she usually bought foam supplies at JoAnn Fabric with coupons or during sales and sometimes used a local upholstery-supply shop. That is a personal purchasing note from the original discussion, not current pricing or a recommendation that those sources remain available.
How to decide whether this project suits you
This makeover is a reasonable candidate if you can safely modify a wooden frame, cut and shape foam, sew fitted corners, operate an upholstery stapler and maintain an even tuft pattern. It is a poor first project if the cane is already loose, the frame has major structural damage or you need a guaranteed schedule and exact material quantities; Linauer did not provide a standardized bill of materials or a fixed cost.
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1Scan for outdated or missing drivers - takes under a minute2Clear out junk files and repair common Windows errors3Fix the driver behind crashes, sound loss and screen glitchesBefore starting, photograph the original chair, label every removed part, measure the seat and back, and make a full-size paper layout for the buttons. Plan the cord route and rear anchor locations before the fabric hides the cane. Most importantly, treat each cut and attachment as a structural decision: this chair combines a rigid wood frame, flexible cane, foam, batting and a tensioned fabric cover, so a shortcut in one layer can telegraph through all the others.
Linauer’s June 20, 2016 post, updated on October 8, 2017, is valuable because it records those decisions as she made them, including the trial-and-error choice of dowel anchors for cane. Read it as a firsthand account of adapting these particular chairs, then adjust the dimensions and attachment details to the frame, backing and use conditions of your own set.
Quick Recap
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