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Build a rustic airplane-themed wood cornice from two 2×6 boards, white paint, an inkjet printout, Mod Podge, walnut stain and a few acrylic-paint touch-ups. The image-transfer process is deliberately forgiving: the paper is placed face down, so the finished airplane appears mirrored, and small gaps or worn areas become part of the aged look. Mount the finished planks to a separate wall support sized for your window treatment rather than copying an unverified dimension.
What this project makes
This is a wooden window valance, also called a cornice, rather than a fabric valance. Two painted 2×6 planks form the visible face. An airplane image gives the piece its theme, while walnut stain over the white paint creates a weathered, rustic finish. The original maker used ordinary construction boards instead of barn wood and left their imperfections visible; the intentionally unsanded surface helps the project look aged rather than newly built.
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The tutorial’s maker estimated about one to two hours, depending on the size of the cornice. Treat that as one person’s estimate for this project, not a guaranteed build time. Drying, image cleanup, wall access and the number of boards can make your schedule longer.
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Materials and tools
- Two 2×6 boards for the decorative face. Choose straight boards if you want a cleaner image, or retain knots and dents for a more distressed result.
- A separate support board, commonly another 2×6, to fasten to the wall above the window.
- White paint for the boards.
- A regular inkjet printer and plain printer paper.
- Mod Podge or another compatible decoupage medium. The tutorial names Mod Podge but does not specify a formula or guarantee results with every product.
- A plastic card, old gift card or credit card for pressing the paper flat.
- Walnut-colored wood stain for the aged overlay.
- Acrylic craft paint for restoring weak or missing parts of the airplane image.
- Nails or another fastening method suited to the wall and the cornice weight.
- Basic preparation tools such as a tape measure, pencil, level, hammer or drill, and a clean brush. Use drop cloths and ventilation appropriate for your paint and stain.
Plan the size around the window treatment
The airplane tutorial does not publish a dimensioned plan, a window measurement, a return depth, or a load rating. Measure your own window covering before cutting. Open and close blinds, shades or curtains and note the farthest point they occupy. The cornice must clear that moving hardware in both positions.
Face width
Decide how far the cornice should extend past the window or blind hardware on each side. Add enough side coverage to hide the treatment’s brackets without making the piece unnecessarily heavy. Record the finished face width, then cut the two 2x6s to the same length if you want their ends to align.
Return depth
Return depth is the distance the cornice projects from the wall. Base it on the treatment beneath it, including handles, open slats and curtain folds. A general wooden-valance design from HGTV uses a ledger attached to a solid header, or directly to studs when no suitable header is available, and then screws the cornice box to that ledger. That is a reference approach for planning and fastening; it does not establish dimensions or capacity for this particular airplane project.
Support and wall structure
Locate studs or a solid header before choosing fasteners. The decorative boards and stain add weight, and a support that works for a lightweight picture may not be adequate here. Brackets are possible, but select them and their fasteners for the actual load and wall material. A removable valance design that uses D-rings and picture hooks, for example, is intended for a lightweight renter-oriented piece and is not a load recommendation for two 2×6 boards.
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Choose the image-transfer approach
| Approach | How it works | Best fit | Important limitation |
|---|---|---|---|
| Mod Podge paper transfer | Coat painted wood, place an inkjet print face down, burnish it with a card, then remove the paper. | A large, aged image with softened or distressed edges. | The image reverses left to right; paper may need wetting, picking or scraping. |
| Pencil tracing | Shade the reverse of a print with pencil, tape it pencil-side down, trace the lines with a ballpoint pen, then paint the transferred lines. | Simple outlines or designs that you want to paint by hand. | It is a separate technique; the available instructions do not establish comparative durability or clarity. |
Use an image you created, licensed or otherwise have permission to reproduce. The original tutorial points to an image source, but its current availability and reuse rights are not established. If the design contains text, a directional airplane, a flag or another asymmetric detail, mirror the source file before printing so the transfer’s reversal produces the intended final orientation. For a purely symmetrical silhouette, the reversal may not matter.
Build the rustic airplane cornice
1. Cut and inspect the boards
Cut the two face boards to your planned width and cut the wall support to match the area it must span. Dry-fit the boards above the window so you can check clearance before applying any finish. Remove splinters and sharp edges, but do not aggressively sand away every dent if you want the imperfect, reclaimed-wood character of the original project. For a sharper transfer, lightly smooth the specific area where the image will sit.
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2. Paint the face boards white
Apply white paint to the visible faces and edges that may be seen from the room. Let the paint dry according to its label. The transfer step works on painted wood that is mostly dry; it should not be wet enough to slide or mix with the medium. A consistent white base makes the airplane easier to see, while thin or uneven paint can contribute to a worn appearance.
3. Prepare and print the airplane artwork
Size the artwork to the actual board and leave a margin if you want visible white space around it. Print on ordinary paper with a regular inkjet printer, as in the tutorial. Print a small test first to check scale, contrast and the left-right orientation. Do not assume that a printer’s “mirror” setting behaves identically across software; inspect the preview or test sheet.
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4. Apply the transfer medium
Brush a workable coat of Mod Podge over the painted area. The tutorial says to coat the mostly dry paint, lay the printed image face down and smooth it with a card. Cover the area evenly enough that the paper contacts the medium, but avoid puddles that can wrinkle the sheet. If you are transferring to two boards, keep the artwork aligned to the seam you planned rather than trying to join the planks after the image is applied.
5. Burnish the paper
Place the print ink-side down and press from the center outward with the card. Work over the entire image, including corners and thin airplane details. Firm, even pressure pushes the paper into the medium and reduces air pockets. Do not slide the sheet once it contacts the board; movement can smear the ink or shift the design.
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6. Let it set, then remove the paper
Allow the medium to set as directed by the product and the room conditions. Start by dampening and rubbing the paper away in small sections. The tutorial reports that some paper required picking and scraping where Mod Podge had dried. Use patience rather than force: aggressive scraping can lift the image along with the paper. Continue until the paper fibers are gone and the transferred image is visible.
7. Accept or refine the distressed image
An imperfect transfer is central to the rustic look. If the airplane has small gaps, faded edges or missing patches, you can leave them as wear. For a clearer result on a future attempt, use smoother wood and more Mod Podge, as the original maker recommends. A very rough board can pull paper fibers into dents and interrupt fine lines.
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8. Add walnut stain
Brush walnut stain over the painted and transferred boards to develop the worn color. Apply it in controlled amounts and wipe or blend according to the stain directions, especially around the airplane where heavy color can obscure details. The stain is a visual-aging step, not a structural adhesive; it does not replace a protective topcoat if your chosen finish requires one.
9. Touch up with acrylic paint
Use acrylic craft paint to restore airplane lines or highlights that became too faint during transfer or staining. Match the white base or the artwork’s colors with small brushes. Keep the touch-ups irregular if you want the image to remain convincingly aged; repainting every edge into a perfect graphic can work against the distressed finish.
10. Assemble and mount
Position the finished planks above the window and mark the support location. Fasten the support board to a solid header or to studs with hardware appropriate to the wall. Level it before tightening. Then nail or screw the two decorated planks to that support, keeping their faces aligned and leaving any intentional gap where you planned it. Predrilling near board ends can reduce splitting. Check that the cornice clears the window treatment through its full range of movement.
Independent reader supportYour contribution helps us test, update, and keep practical guides available for everyone.Troubleshoot common transfer problems
The image is backward
Face-down transfers reverse the artwork. If text or directional details read backward, re-edit the image by flipping it horizontally before printing and repeat the transfer. If the board is already finished, a painted correction may be possible, but small lettering is difficult to repair cleanly.
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Large areas of paper remain
Dampen a small section, rub away softened fibers and work gradually. Where the medium has dried hard, the tutorial describes picking and scraping. Stop if the image itself begins lifting, then allow the area to dry before deciding whether a tiny acrylic touch-up is enough.
The image is faint or patchy
Patchiness can come from rough wood, insufficient medium, incomplete burnishing or over-aggressive paper removal. The stated improvements are smoother wood and more Mod Podge. On this intentionally rustic project, judge the result after stain and touch-ups; minor gaps may look deliberate.
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Use a thinner, even coat, lower the print carefully from one edge and burnish outward without sliding it. Work on one board at a time so you can maintain pressure across the entire image.
The cornice feels unstable
Do not solve movement by simply adding decorative nails. Recheck the support’s connection to studs or a header, the fastener type, the board span and the projection from the wall. If the wall cannot accept the planned load, redesign the support or reduce the board size rather than relying on picture-hanging hardware.
How to make the finish look intentional
- Keep knots, shallow dents and slight variation in the boards where they do not interfere with the image.
- Place the airplane where the viewing angle is clearest, rather than forcing it across a deep seam or hardware return.
- Use stain more heavily at edges and selectively over the face so the white paint still frames the transfer.
- Make acrylic repairs small and irregular; a perfectly repainted image will look newly decorated instead of weathered.
- Seal or topcoat only with a product compatible with the paint, stain and transfer medium, and test it on a hidden area first.
What this project can and cannot promise
The method is inexpensive in materials compared with buying a custom decorative cornice, but the tutorial does not provide a current bill of materials or a verified present-day price comparison. Its remembered inspiration price of about $300 is historical and should not be treated as a current retail figure. More importantly, the project page does not establish a universal build time, structural rating, image longevity or guaranteed transfer clarity.
What is established is the sequence: two 2x6s, white paint, a face-down inkjet print, Mod Podge burnishing, paper removal, walnut stain, acrylic touch-ups and a separately mounted wall support. Size and fastening remain your responsibility because every window treatment, wall and board span differs.
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Quick Recap
Final checklist
- Measure the treatment with blinds or curtains both open and closed.
- Confirm the artwork’s rights and mirror any asymmetric design before printing.
- Test the print and transfer on scrap wood.
- Leave the two face boards separate during transfer.
- Use smoother wood and enough medium when image clarity matters.
- Locate studs or a solid header before mounting the support.
- Check clearance and stability before operating the window treatment.
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