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The most important terrarium decision is whether it should be open or closed. Use an open glass vessel for succulents and other plants that prefer dry air; use a covered vessel for many small tropical plants that thrive in humidity. Once the plant system is chosen, select compatible species, prepare a clean container and light growing medium, plant without burying stems, and add only enough water to moisten the soil.
This guide explains how to make a terrarium, what you need for a DIY glass terrarium, how to handle the disagreement over gravel layers, and how to keep the finished planting healthy without overwatering or forcing it to outgrow its enclosure.
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Open or closed: choose the system around the plants
A terrarium is a small planting environment in a clear container. The container can be open to room air or covered to hold humidity. The choice affects plant selection, watering, airflow and the risk of rot, so make it before buying materials.
Open terrariums for dry-loving plants
An open bowl, jar without a lid or other uncovered vessel allows air movement and faster evaporation. It suits succulents and other plants adapted to drier conditions. Cacti and succulents generally decline in the humid conditions of a sealed terrarium. Iowa State University Extension and UF/IFAS Extension both distinguish open containers from humid, covered ones in this way.
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- REAL LIVE MOSS INCLUDED — Unlike kits built only around decorative or artificial materials, this terrarium set includes real live moss to bring natural texture and color into your finished arrangement. Follow the included care guidance to help the moss recover after shipping and maintain it as part of your terrarium.
- LAYER, BUILD & PERSONALIZE — Arrange the included substrates, sand, gravel, moss and decorative accents to create depth, texture and your own miniature landscape. Mini tools help with placing and adjusting smaller details, making the building process part of the experience rather than simply displaying a finished product.
- GLASS GLOBE DISPLAY — The clear glass globe keeps the miniature arrangement visible from multiple angles, while the coordinated wood base and metal frame create a finished display for desks, shelves, tables and other indoor spaces. The compact design turns the completed terrarium into part of your decor.
- STAND OR HANG — Display the finished terrarium on its wood base or use the included hanging rope for another presentation option. The flexible format makes it easy to incorporate the finished piece into a desk, shelf, tabletop or other indoor display area.
Closed terrariums for humidity-loving plants
A lid or fitted cover slows evaporation and creates a humid microclimate. This is appropriate for many small tropical foliage plants, including examples such as Fittonia and certain ferns. Closed does not mean permanently sealed: you may need to lift or crack the cover when condensation becomes excessive.
Use one set of growing requirements
Choose small, preferably slow-growing plants with similar light, moisture and temperature preferences. A sun-loving succulent and a shade-loving tropical plant should not share one container simply because they fit visually. Iowa State recommends combining plants that share conditions, while UF/IFAS specifically advises matching light and moisture needs.
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One free scan finds every outdated or missing driver and matches the right update for your exact hardware.Free scan · exact hardware match| Terrarium type | Best plant profile | Air and water behavior | Main risk |
|---|---|---|---|
| Open | Succulents and other dry-loving, compact plants | More airflow and evaporation; water only when the medium is nearly dry | Overwatering in a container with no drain hole |
| Closed | Small tropical foliage plants, such as Fittonia and suitable ferns | Humidity is retained; condensation may recycle water inside the vessel | Persistent saturation, root rot or fungal problems |
What you need for a DIY glass terrarium
You do not need a special kit. A repurposed clear vessel works if it is clean, transparent and large enough for your hands or tools to reach the planting area.
- A clear glass container with a usable opening: a wide-mouth jar, bowl with a cover, fish tank or similar vessel.
- Small plants that share the selected terrarium’s light and moisture requirements.
- A light or soilless potting mix. Use a mix suited to succulents for an open succulent display; use a moisture-retentive but airy mix appropriate for the tropical plants in a closed display.
- Horticultural charcoal, especially when following the closed-terrarium methods described by UF/IFAS and Oregon State University Extension.
- An optional porous separator fabric if you use the UF/IFAS layered method.
- A spoon, chopstick, knitting needle or narrow-spout watering can for work in a restricted opening.
Wash the container, rinse away soap and let it dry before adding materials. Dirt or residue on the glass is difficult to remove after planting.
How to make a terrarium step by step
1. Select the vessel and viewing angle
Choose a container that is clear on the sides you want to see and has an opening wide enough to place plants and adjust soil. A narrow-neck bottle can be attractive but makes every later task harder, including removing a crowded plant. Decide whether the display will be viewed from one side or all around; that determines where tall and low plants go.
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2. Decide whether the cover stays on
Match the vessel to the plant list before building the layers. An open arrangement should be able to dry between waterings. A closed arrangement should contain plants that tolerate sustained humidity. Do not use a lid merely to create a decorative effect around plants that require dry air.
3. Choose a bottom-layer method deliberately
Extension recommendations differ, and none of these glass vessels magically drains water outside the container. Iowa State describes a roughly 2-inch layer of gravel, pebbles or perlite as a space for excess water, followed by about a one-fourth-inch layer of charcoal and then 1–4 inches of soil. UF/IFAS describes at least a 1/2-inch drainage layer, up to 1 1/2 inches in a large container, with gravel or sand, charcoal in a closed terrarium and porous fabric to keep soil from settling below. By contrast, Oregon State University Extension advises skipping gravel because water can pool above it and contribute to root rot; its method begins with horticultural charcoal.
If you choose the Iowa State or UF/IFAS approach, understand that the lower layer collects water inside a vessel that has no drain hole; it does not drain water out. If you prefer to eliminate that reservoir, follow the Oregon State approach and begin with charcoal. Whichever method you use, the decisive safeguard is restrained watering.
4. Add charcoal and growing medium
Use clean horticultural charcoal rather than assuming any charcoal product is suitable. Depending on the method, place it above the mineral layer or use it as the first layer. Extension guidance describes charcoal as helping absorb runoff and odors and discouraging unpleasant conditions; it is not a guarantee against mold, rot or contamination.
Add the selected potting mix gently so it does not cloud the glass. Iowa State’s practical depth is 1–4 inches of soil, adjusted for the container and root balls. Make the planting layer deep enough to cover roots without burying plant crowns or stems. Leave headroom for foliage and future growth.
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- Made Primarily For Open Terrariums: Designed primarily for open terrarium projects such as succulent, air plant and miniature garden displays. Choose plants with similar light and moisture needs and follow the included care guide for watering. Different plants may require different materials and care routines, so adjust your setup to match the plants you choose.
- A Relaxing & Creative Diy Project: Turn an empty glass container into your own miniature landscape and customize the layers, plants and decorative finish to match your style. The hands-on building experience makes this DIY succulent terrarium kit a relaxing activity for beginners, nature lovers, families and friends, and a thoughtful DIY gift for special occasions.
5. Arrange plants before planting
Set the potted plants on the surface and rotate the container until the composition looks right. Keep vigorous growers away from the smallest plants and leave enough space for air circulation. In a one-sided display, place taller plants toward the back; in a round bowl, keep the tallest specimen near the center or rear of the chosen viewing angle.
6. Plant carefully
- Remove each plant from its nursery pot and gently loosen only loose, damaged soil.
- Make a shallow hole with a spoon handle, chopstick or finger.
- Set the root ball at the same depth it had in its pot. Do not fold roots sharply or bury leaves.
- Press the mix around the roots so the plant stands securely, but do not compact the medium into a hard mass.
- Brush soil from the leaves and wipe the inside of the glass with a dry cloth or tool.
In a narrow opening, lower plants with a spoon or tongs and use a chopstick or knitting needle to guide roots and firm soil. Work slowly; scraping the glass or snapping stems is harder to correct after the next plant is in place.
7. Water once, lightly
Start with only enough water to moisten the growing medium. Do not fill the lower layer or leave visible puddles. For an open vessel, wait until the mix is almost dry before watering again. For a closed vessel, observe the soil and the amount of condensation rather than following a fixed weekly schedule.
8. Place the finished terrarium
Set it in bright, indirect light. Direct sun can heat the glass and raise the internal temperature enough to damage plants, even when the room itself feels comfortable. Iowa State and UF/IFAS both advise avoiding direct sunlight.
How to manage water and condensation
Closed terrariums can need far less frequent watering than ordinary houseplants because moisture cycles inside the container. Iowa State notes that many closed terrariums may need water only every 3–6 months, but the interval varies with the potting mix, plant species, light and other conditions. Treat that figure as practical guidance, not a calendar rule.
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- SELF-SUSTAINING CLOSED ECOSYSTEM — Once sealed, the terrarium creates its own water cycle through condensation and evaporation, requiring minimal watering. A living decoration that takes care of itself — perfect for beginners and busy plant lovers.
Read the soil and glass
- Nearly dry soil in an open terrarium is a reason to water sparingly; visibly wet soil is not.
- A light film of condensation can occur in a closed terrarium. Heavy fogging, running droplets or constantly wet soil indicate that the cover should be lifted or cracked temporarily.
- After ventilation clears excessive condensation, replace the cover only when the internal environment has settled.
Never compensate for a dry-looking surface by flooding the container. Check below the surface where possible and consider the plant’s leaves, firmness and growth along with the glass.
Independent reader supportYour contribution helps us test, update, and keep practical guides available for everyone.Light, fertilizer and long-term growth
Provide steady indirect light
Bright, indirect light supports compact growth without the heat spike caused by direct rays through glass. If stems stretch toward a window, move the terrarium closer to bright filtered light rather than placing it in harsh midday sun.
Fertilize sparingly
Regular fertilizer is usually counterproductive when the goal is a compact display. Extra nutrients accelerate growth and can crowd a small enclosure. Iowa State, UF/IFAS and Oregon State guidance all favors restrained fertilization, reserving it for a clear plant need rather than a routine schedule.
Prune and replace as needed
Even a slow-growing plant eventually reaches the limits of its container. Trim foliage that touches the glass or shades its neighbors, remove damaged leaves, and replace plants that repeatedly outgrow the design. Oregon State horticulturist Brooke Edmunds describes terrarium plants as “fleeting beauties” because they eventually need replacement; the practical goal is a healthy display, not permanent confinement.
Troubleshooting common DIY terrarium problems
The glass stays fogged and the soil is saturated
Remove or crack the cover until condensation clears, then reassess the amount of water added. Persistent saturation is more serious than a temporarily dry surface because roots need air as well as moisture. If the plants continue declining, remove them, trim rotten roots and rebuild with fresh medium rather than adding more charcoal or stones as a cure.
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- What You Will Get: 1 terrarium glass, about 9.8 inches high; Aquarium light, about 5.9 inches in diameter; 1 adapter 5V2A, US two-pin plug
- Efficient and Adjustable Lighting: our 3W LED light is suitable for small plants, mosses, succulents, and Venus Fly Trap; You can easily change between strong and weak lighting modes, providing the right amount of light for your plants; The adjustable lighting and rotating lamp base make it ideal for creating a small desk terrarium or desktop plant display
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- Humidity and Timing Control: the size of the opening can be adjusted by rotating the inner ring to control the humidity inside the bottle; This helps create a suitable environment for moss, Venus Fly Trap, tropical plants, and other small terrarium plants; The light also has a timing mode to help you coordinate the environment inside the bottle
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Leaves turn soft, yellow or translucent
These symptoms can follow excess water, especially in succulents or in a closed vessel with poor airflow. Stop watering, increase ventilation and check the roots. Affected tissue may not recover, so remove it promptly and correct the moisture conditions.
Plants stretch or lose color
Move the terrarium to brighter indirect light. Avoid solving weak growth by placing the glass in direct sun; heat buildup can create a second problem.
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Use a spoon, brush or chopstick to return material to the planting area. If soil continually falls into a lower layer, a porous separator fabric can help in the UF/IFAS-style construction. Do not pack the soil tightly just to keep it in place.
A plant outgrows the container
Prune it if the species responds well to trimming and the remaining plants still have room. Otherwise, remove and replace it with a smaller compatible plant. Choosing slow-growing specimens at the start delays, but does not eliminate, this maintenance.
Which construction method should you use?
| Method | Layer sequence | When it fits | Important qualification |
|---|---|---|---|
| Iowa State-style reservoir | About 2 inches gravel, pebbles or perlite; about 1/4 inch charcoal; 1–4 inches soil | Readers who want a mineral collection space and can control watering carefully | The lower layer stores excess water inside the vessel; it is not an external drain |
| UF/IFAS layered method | At least 1/2 inch gravel or sand, up to 1 1/2 inches in a large container; charcoal for closed setups; optional porous fabric; soil | Closed tropical displays built with a separator between soil and lower layer | Layer thickness is guidance, not a universal specification |
| Oregon State method | Horticultural charcoal, then growing medium; no gravel layer | Builders who want to avoid a zone where water may pool | Overwatering can still cause rot; omitting gravel does not make the vessel self-draining |
These approaches come from extension publications rather than a single universal recipe. Select one method, keep its material sequence consistent and let plant compatibility and water control determine the result.
Quick checklist before you seal or display it
- Is the vessel clean, clear and reachable through its opening?
- Are all plants small and compatible with the same light and moisture conditions?
- Did you choose open or closed before selecting the plants?
- Is the potting mix appropriate for those plants and deep enough for their roots?
- Have you accounted for the gravel-method disagreement instead of assuming stones create drainage?
- Is the first watering only enough to moisten the medium?
- Will the terrarium receive bright, indirect light rather than direct sun?
- Can you remove or crack the cover if condensation becomes excessive?
For additional construction details, see Iowa State University Extension’s terrarium guide, UF/IFAS’s terrarium design publication and Oregon State University Extension’s terrarium-making and care article.
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