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Build the storage first, finish the paintwork, then install the backsplash. Laura Burkhalter’s laundry-room pantry project followed that order: she rebuilt the tower shelves in better-quality sanded plywood, assembled and painted the frames, anchored floating shelves to wall studs, and finished the work area with 3-by-12-inch glazed stone hearth ceramic tile. Her account, published by Architectural Digest, is one builder’s practical sequence rather than a universal installation specification. Use it as a workflow, and confirm that every adhesive, grout, paint and wall surface is compatible with your own room.
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What this makeover involved
The project combined two jobs that are easier to manage when treated as separate workstreams: painted plywood storage and a tiled backsplash. The tower shelves created enclosed, vertical capacity. Floating shelves added open storage, while a strip-pine edge and spare cabinet handles made them look more substantial. The backsplash protected and finished the wall behind the work area.
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Burkhalter’s finished-storage verdict was simple: “There is no wasted space in this room now,” she said. The result depended less on a single product than on preparation: choosing plywood that could take the desired finish, checking the frame for square, anchoring shelf braces to studs, and wiping grout before it hardened on the tile face.
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Materials and tools named for the project
The list below records the supplies described for this particular makeover. It is not a recommendation, price list or guarantee of current availability.
| Area | Supplies and tools used or named | Purpose in the project |
|---|---|---|
| Tower shelves | One ¾-inch sheet of sanded plywood cut into strips; three 1-by-2-by-8-foot strip-pine boards; wood glue; brad nailer; 18-gauge brad nails; wood filler; painter’s caulk; speed square | Frame, shelf surfaces, temporary fastening while the frame was squared, and seam and nail-hole preparation |
| Paint finish | Shellac-base primer; Behr Premium Satin Cabinet, Door, & Trim enamel paint color-matched with PPG Keepsakes; foam roller; paint sprayer | Prime and topcoat the prepared woodwork |
| Floating shelves | Two 1-by-2-by-8-foot strip-pine boards; two ½-inch sanded project boards; 1-inch 18-gauge brad nails; 5-inch brushed-brass kitchen cabinet handles | Build the shelf boxes, create a thicker-looking front edge and add a gallery-rail detail |
| Backsplash | 3-by-12-inch glazed stone hearth ceramic tile; peel-and-stick adhesive tile mat; tile scorer-cutter; premixed grout; foam grout float; large grouting sponge; water for damp wiping | Attach, cut, grout and clean the tile installation |
Have the home-improvement store make the plywood cuts if that service is available to you. In this project, the builder requested cuts to size rather than breaking down the sheet herself.
Plan the room before cutting or painting
Separate the fixed and adjustable dimensions
Measure the space for the tower, the wall area receiving floating shelves and the backsplash zone. Record the height, width and depth you need, then mark where studs fall behind the open shelves. The reported project used wall-stud attachment for the floating-shelf braces; do not assume a similar-looking wall can carry the same load without checking its construction.
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Paint exposes rough grain, open seams and nail holes. Decide whether the plywood edges, pine edging and shelf interiors will all receive the same finish. That decision affects how carefully you need to fill, caulk and sand before primer.
Confirm the tile system as a system
A peel-and-stick adhesive mat, ceramic tile and premixed grout must be compatible with one another and with the wall. Read the installation directions for the exact products you buy. Burkhalter’s method is a report of one installation; it does not establish that every tile or wall surface accepts an adhesive mat.
Why the plywood was replaced
The first plywood was a lower-cost choice. Burkhalter found that its grain was too pronounced to sand to the clean appearance she wanted, so she removed the shelves and started again with higher-quality sanded plywood. That experience makes finish quality a design and labor decision, not merely a material-price decision.
Before committing a full sheet, inspect an edge and a face under the lighting in your laundry room. If the grain, voids or patching will remain visible after primer and enamel, changing stock early is less disruptive than rebuilding painted shelves. No verified cost difference between the plywood grades was reported, so treat the choice as a finish-risk trade-off rather than a documented savings calculation.
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Build and finish the tower shelves
1. Have the plywood cut into shelf strips
Use the planned dimensions and ask the store to make the cuts to size, as Burkhalter did. Label every strip immediately so the frame can be assembled without swapping pieces. Dry-fit the parts on a flat surface and check that matching lengths are actually matching before applying adhesive.
2. Assemble with glue and brad nails
Apply wood glue at the frame joints, bring the pieces together and use the brad nailer to hold the assembly while the glue sets. Keep the parts supported so they cannot twist. Brad nails are serving as assembly fasteners in this account; follow your nailer’s operating and safety directions and select fastener length appropriate to the material thickness.
3. Check every corner with a speed square
Place the speed square against each corner while the glue is workable. Correct a racked frame before the adhesive cures. Burkhalter’s advice is direct: “A speed square is your best friend for this project.” Squaring at this stage prevents a visibly leaning cabinet and makes later doors, bins or shelf inserts easier to align.
4. Fill holes and caulk seams
After the adhesive has set, fill the brad holes with wood filler. Run painter’s caulk along paintable seams where two parts meet. Allow each product to dry according to its label, then sand the filler and any raised caulk edge until the surfaces feel even. Remove dust before priming.
5. Prime the prepared wood
The project used a shellac-base primer. Apply it to the cleaned, filled assembly and follow the product’s recoat and ventilation directions. Primer is the point at which remaining defects become easy to spot; correct them before the enamel coat rather than expecting paint to hide them.
6. Apply the cabinet-and-trim enamel
Burkhalter used Behr Premium Satin Cabinet, Door, & Trim enamel color-matched with PPG Keepsakes. She listed both a foam roller and a paint sprayer. Choose one application method that suits your access, masking and equipment, and follow its thinning, tip-size or cure instructions where applicable. Keep the coat even and allow the stated drying time before handling or reinstalling shelves.
Construct the floating shelves
1. Fasten braces to wall studs
The floating shelves were supported by 1-by-2-inch wood braces secured to wall studs. Locate and mark the studs before drilling, position the braces level, and use fasteners suited to the wall and framing. The important structural detail in the featured project is the stud connection; a brace attached only to drywall is not the same installation.
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2. Wrap the braces with project boards
The shelf surfaces used two ½-inch sanded project boards over the wood braces. Fit the boards around the support so the finished box sits tightly and remains level. Dry-fit first, because a small mismatch at the wall can create a visible gap after paint.
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Strip pine was applied at the shelf edge to make the ½-inch project-board construction look deeper. Align the front edge carefully, glue it in place and use the listed 1-inch 18-gauge brad nails to hold it while the adhesive sets. Fill nail holes and prepare the edge for the same primer-and-paint process used on the tower if you want a unified finish.
4. Install the decorative gallery rail
Spare 5-inch brushed-brass kitchen cabinet handles were glued along the shelf edges as a gallery-rail detail. Lay out the handles before gluing so spacing and alignment are consistent. Confirm that the adhesive is intended for both surfaces and allow the full cure time before placing objects near the rail.
Install the backsplash in a controlled sequence
1. Prepare and verify the wall
Remove dust, grease and loose material from the backsplash area. The wall must be sound, clean and suitable for the peel-and-stick mat. Check the mat manufacturer’s directions for priming, moisture limits, flatness and cure requirements; those conditions are not established by this single project report.
2. Apply the adhesive tile mat
Burkhalter applied the peel-and-stick adhesive tile mat directly to the wall before setting tile. Work in manageable sections, press the mat firmly and avoid trapping debris or bubbles. Keep the exposed adhesive covered until you are ready to place tile, following the product’s open-time instructions.
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3. Set the 3-by-12-inch tiles
The selected tile was 3-by-12-inch glazed stone hearth ceramic. Dry-lay the first course to decide where cuts will fall, then press each tile onto the mat according to the tile and mat directions. Maintain consistent joint spacing with the spacers or layout method specified for your tile system. Check level and alignment as you go; corrections become harder after the adhesive grips.
4. Score and cut instead of assuming a wet saw is required
For this installation, Burkhalter used a tile scorer-cutter rather than a tile saw. Mark the cut, score the glazed face with the tool and snap or finish the cut as the cutter instructions describe. Test a spare tile first: glazed surfaces can chip, and the cleanest technique depends on the particular tile.
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5. Force premixed grout into the joints
After the tile was attached, she spread premixed grout into the joints. Use the grout’s stated working time and joint-size limits. The grout should fill the lines rather than sit as a thin film on the tile face.
6. Use a foam float and wipe promptly
Her specific caution was: “Make sure to use a foam grout float to keep from scratching the tile; focus the grout into the grout lines,” she said. Work diagonally across the joints with the float, then remove excess before it dries. Follow immediately with a damp sponge, rinsing it often and wringing it well. Burkhalter used a large grouting sponge and emphasized prompt cleanup.
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Keep the backsplash undisturbed for the grout and adhesive cure period printed on the products. Do not infer a cure time from the article, because the exact mat and grout formulations are not identified there. Recheck the edges and corners after curing and address any gaps according to the manufacturers’ repair instructions.
Independent reader supportYour contribution helps us test, update, and keep practical guides available for everyone.Painting details that determine the final appearance
Prepare before opening the paint
- Sand filled nail holes and caulk transitions smooth.
- Remove sanding dust from every surface, including shelf undersides and inside corners.
- Mask the wall, floor, tile and hardware areas that should remain unpainted.
- Use a small sample area to confirm that the primer and enamel produce the sheen and color you expect under laundry-room lighting.
Choose roller or sprayer deliberately
A foam roller can be practical for small, assembled pieces and keeps overspray to a minimum. A sprayer can produce a smooth finish but requires thorough masking and control of airborne paint. The feature names both tools but does not compare their finish quality or speed, so select based on your workspace, ventilation and ability to protect the backsplash and appliances.
Respect recoat and cure times
Cabinet-and-trim enamel may feel dry before it has reached handling strength. Follow the can’s recoat, cure and cleanup instructions, and avoid loading shelves until the finish has cured as directed. This is especially important where baskets or bottles will slide across the paint.
Common failure points and practical corrections
The plywood still looks too grainy
If a test area shows grain telegraphing through primer, stop before painting the entire unit. More sanding may not deliver the smooth appearance you want; Burkhalter’s solution was to remove the first shelves and use higher-quality sanded plywood. Reassess the face and edge quality rather than adding coats indefinitely.
The frame is out of square
Check diagonals and corners with the speed square while the glue is still workable. Reposition and clamp or brace the frame before the brad nails lock the error in place. Once painted, a crooked frame is harder to disguise and can interfere with shelf fit.
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Paint reveals seams and nail holes
Return to wood filler for holes and painter’s caulk for paintable joints. Let both dry, sand or smooth them, remove dust and spot-prime repairs. Do not rely on a thicker topcoat to level an unprepared seam.
Floating shelves feel loose
Recheck that each brace is actually fastened to a wall stud and that the fasteners are appropriate for the wall construction. If the wall does not provide the expected framing, pause and redesign the support rather than loading the shelf.
The tile chips during scoring
Practice on an offcut, confirm the scorer is suitable for the tile and make sure the score is continuous. If the tile manufacturer specifies another cutting method, follow that direction. The article reports a scorer-cutter for this tile project; it is not evidence that every ceramic tile will snap cleanly.
Grout scratches or dries on the face
Use a foam grout float, keep pressure focused in the joints and wipe excess promptly with a damp, frequently rinsed sponge. Once grout has hardened, removal can be more difficult and may damage the glaze; use only the cleaning method approved for your tile and grout.
How to adapt the sequence to your own laundry room
- Map the wall and storage footprint. Mark the tower, floating-shelf levels, backsplash boundary and stud locations.
- Buy or order cut stock only after checking measurements. Label each plywood strip and dry-fit the assembly.
- Build the tower and floating-shelf boxes. Glue, nail and square the wood before surface preparation.
- Fill, caulk, sand and prime. Inspect under the room’s actual lighting before applying enamel.
- Paint and allow the finish to cure. Protect the painted surfaces while the tile work is underway.
- Install the backsplash system. Verify wall and product compatibility, apply the mat, set and cut tile, then grout and sponge-clean.
- Finish the details. Add the strip-pine edge and glued handle rail, then load shelves only after every adhesive, grout and paint product has cured as directed.
What this account does—and does not—establish
The feature demonstrates a workable sequence for one pantry connected to a laundry-room makeover: higher-quality sanded plywood improved the intended painted finish; glue, brad nails and a speed square produced the shelf frames; stud-mounted braces supported the floating shelves; and a foam float helped grout the backsplash while reducing scratch risk on the glazed tile.
It does not provide a full project budget, a controlled comparison of plywood grades, measured load limits, a laboratory test of the adhesive mat, or a universal recommendation for scorer-cutting every ceramic tile. No numeric cost or performance claim should be inferred. Before starting, read the instructions for your exact materials and inspect your wall, framing, moisture exposure and ventilation.
Source
Project details and quotations are from Caitlin Gunther, “DIY Pantry Shelves and a Backsplash Install Complete the Laundry Room Makeover,” Architectural Digest, October 13, 2022: https://www.architecturaldigest.com/story/diy-pantry-shelves-and-backsplash-diy-diary.
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