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This stage turns a framed portico into a weather-shedding entry roof with a finished underside. In Kristi Linauer’s documented build, 3/4-inch beadboard forms the visible sloped ceiling, 1/4-inch plywood protects that beadboard from roofing nails, and the roof covering is built up with tar paper, drip edge, shingles, and step flashing. A later update adds a flat tongue-and-groove ceiling section, a pendant light, and permanent cedar brackets.
The sequence is useful as a record of one small portico, not as a universal roof plan. Your wall construction, snow and rain exposure, roof geometry, permits, electrical rules, and flashing requirements may call for a different assembly. Treat the dimensions and products below as the reported details of this project, then verify the required details for your house before cutting or fastening anything.
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What this part of the portico build accomplishes
Part 2 finishes the surfaces that are visible from below and closes the roof above them. The sloped area between the trusses receives stained beadboard. A smaller flat area is prepared with interior nailers and is completed later with tongue-and-groove beadboard. Above the sloped ceiling, a thin plywood roof deck creates a barrier that keeps roofing nails from protruding through the finished beadboard.
On top of that deck, Linauer reports installing tar paper, drip edge flashing, shingles, and step flashing. The roof shingles were laid from the low edge upward, and hook blades in a utility knife were used for cuts. The wall-to-roof peak detail is the one part she specifically identifies as an improvised, unauthorized solution; it should not be copied as a standard flashing method.
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The account was published July 24, 2017, and updated January 14, 2019. The later completion post, also updated January 14, 2019, records the flat-ceiling and lighting work.
Decide what must change for your house before building
The original portico was built directly against the house sheathing, with siding installed around it afterward. That answers the common question, “Aren’t you supposed to do the siding first?” If siding is already in place where the new roof and wall meet, it may have to be removed in the connection area so the new work can tie into the wall correctly. The exact cutback, membrane, counterflashing, and siding repair depend on your wall assembly.
Do not assume that the reported roof layers meet the requirements at your location. The author warns that roofing preparation varies by region. Heavy snow or frequent rain may require an ice-and-water barrier, additional flashing, or other measures that are not shown in this project record. Confirm the required roof, structural, permit, and electrical details with your local authority and with the instructions for the roofing materials you will use.
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Questions to resolve before ordering materials
- How will the new roof connect to the existing wall, sheathing, siding, and any house wrap or water-resistive barrier?
- What snow, wind, rain, and ice exposure applies to the site?
- Is an ice-and-water barrier required at the eaves, wall intersection, or both?
- What flashing metal, laps, sealants, and shingle installation details does your local code or manufacturer require?
- Do the brackets, trusses, fasteners, and existing wall framing provide the load path required for your portico?
- Will a new light require a permitted circuit, a rated electrical box, grounding, weather protection, or work by a licensed electrician?
Reported materials and dimensions
| Material or tool | Reported use in this portico | Recorded size or product |
|---|---|---|
| Beadboard boards | Visible underside between the trusses | 3/4 inch thick |
| Wood nailers | Small pieces inside the portico to support a later flat ceiling section | Size not stated |
| Wood stain | Finish on the visible beadboard side | Minwax Dark Walnut |
| Outdoor deck screws | Fastening the rear truss into house studs | 3 inches long |
| Plywood | Roof deck above the beadboard, keeping roofing nails from reaching the ceiling | 1/4 inch thick |
| Tar paper | Roof underlayment over the plywood | Thickness and brand not stated |
| Drip edge flashing | Edge protection at the eaves and gable/rake edges | Profile and gauge not stated |
| Shingles | Primary roof covering | Type and brand not stated |
| Step flashing | Flashing at the roof-to-wall condition | Size and metal not stated |
| Utility-knife hook blades | Cutting shingles | Hook-blade style |
| Tongue-and-groove beadboard | Later flat ceiling section | Size and species not stated |
| Western red cedar | Decorative replacement brackets | Dimensions not stated |
| Pendant light | Final light fixture | Allen + Roth Castine, as reported |
The named products are a record of what the homeowner used, not a test or comparison. Match every replacement material to your climate, code, and the manufacturer’s installation instructions.
Finish the sloped beadboard ceiling
1. Prepare and finish the visible boards
Use 3/4-inch beadboard boards for the sloped underside between the trusses. Linauer stained the visible side Dark Walnut. Decide how you will handle cutting, sanding, staining, and touch-up before the boards are enclosed; the project account does not establish a required stain sequence or drying time. Protect the tongue, groove, edges, and any surfaces that must still accept fasteners or flashing-compatible materials.
2. Add support for the future flat section
Small wood pieces were installed inside the portico as nailers. Their purpose was to give the later flat ceiling section a solid fastening surface. Set nailers where the flat beadboard will land, check that their faces form a consistent plane, and leave enough room for the tongue-and-groove boards to meet the surrounding trim. The source does not provide nailer dimensions, spacing, or a framing schedule, so those details must follow your own ceiling layout and structural requirements.
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3. Secure the roof structure and ceiling boards
The roof structure was fastened to its brackets, and additional beadboard was installed. At the rear truss, Linauer used 3-inch outdoor deck screws driven into house studs. Do not substitute a screw length or fastening location without confirming that the screw reaches adequate framing and does not penetrate utilities, roofing surfaces, or the interior finish. Keep the beadboard face aligned as you work; uneven joints will remain visible from the entry.
Build the roof deck above the finished ceiling
Why the extra plywood layer was used
The project used 1/4-inch plywood over the roof before the roofing layers were installed. Linauer’s stated reason was to prevent roofing nails from passing through the 3/4-inch beadboard and showing on the finished ceiling below. This is a project-specific solution to the relationship between the selected ceiling and the chosen roofing fasteners. It is not a substitute for checking the structural capacity, approved roof-deck construction, or required sheathing thickness for your roof.
Install the reported roof layers in sequence
- Cover the roof with the plywood deck. Fasten the 1/4-inch plywood in a pattern and to framing suitable for your roof assembly. Confirm that edges are supported and that fastener lengths will not create visible or unsafe penetrations.
- Apply the underlayment. Linauer used tar paper over the plywood. Your region or roofing manufacturer may require a different underlayment or an ice-and-water barrier in particular areas.
- Install drip edge flashing. The post describes drip edge at the eaves and at the gable or rake edges, with different edge placement details. Follow the edge sequence specified by your roofing manufacturer and local code rather than copying an unverified arrangement.
- Lay the shingles from the low end upward. Start at the roof’s lower edge and work toward the peak, maintaining the required exposure, alignment, courses, and fastening pattern for the shingle product. The account does not identify a shingle model or provide a universal nailing schedule.
- Cut shingles with a hook blade. The author used hook blades in a utility knife. Use a stable cutting surface, keep the blade directed away from your body, and follow the tool maker’s safety instructions.
- Install step flashing at the wall intersection. Step flashing must integrate with the wall’s water-resistive layers and the shingle courses. The correct metal dimensions, laps, counterflashing, and siding interface are site-specific.
Handle the roof-to-wall peak with an approved detail
At the roof peak against the wall, Linauer says she did not know how to form the flashing and used two pieces of flexible window flashing. She explicitly describes that choice as unauthorized. It is therefore a record of what happened on this one project, not a recommendation, code method, or repair shortcut.
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Use a flashing detail designed for your roof slope, wall cladding, water-resistive barrier, and climate. The detail may require removal of siding, integration with house wrap, a properly formed headwall or step-flashing arrangement, and counterflashing that sheds water over—not behind—the roof covering. If you cannot draw the water path and identify where every upper layer laps over every lower layer, stop and obtain a qualified local detail before closing the joint.
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Install the later tongue-and-groove section
In the completion post, the author added tongue-and-groove beadboard to make the flat ceiling section. The previously installed nailers provided the fastening surface. Dry-fit the boards, account for the direction of the tongues and grooves, and leave the expansion and trim clearances required for your material. The post does not state the board thickness, species, finish, or spacing, so do not infer those values from the sloped 3/4-inch beadboard.
Plan the wire and fixture before closing the ceiling
The electrical wire was passed through a drilled hole, and an Allen + Roth Castine pendant light from Lowe’s was installed. Before drilling or pulling wire, identify the intended box location, cable route, framing, and roof penetrations. A fixture must be supported by an electrical box rated for its weight and installed according to the applicable electrical code. Exterior or damp locations may require a specific box, cover, connector, grounding method, and fixture rating. Have a qualified electrician handle work that you are not permitted or equipped to perform.
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Replace temporary supports with permanent brackets
Temporary diagonal 2-by-4s were replaced with decorative western red cedar brackets. Decorative members should not be assumed to carry the same load as temporary framing or engineered supports. Confirm how the permanent brackets transfer roof loads into the wall and portico framing, and protect cut ends and connections with a finish appropriate to exterior exposure.
Checks before you call the roof finished
- Ceiling appearance: Beadboard joints are tight, the stained faces are oriented outward, and no fastener has broken through the visible surface.
- Framing connection: Trusses and brackets are fastened to verified framing, with no screw placed where it can damage wiring, plumbing, or the roof membrane.
- Roof deck: Plywood edges are supported, fasteners are seated, and no point or sharp edge can puncture the underlayment.
- Water shedding: Underlayment, drip edge, shingles, step flashing, and wall layers overlap in the direction water travels.
- Wall intersection: The peak and side-wall flashing use an approved detail for your cladding and climate, not the unauthorized flexible-window-flashing improvisation described in the project.
- Regional protection: Any required ice-and-water barrier or additional rain and snow measures are installed before the roof is concealed.
- Electrical safety: The box, cable, grounding, fixture rating, and switch operation meet local requirements before the ceiling is closed.
- Finish and drainage: Cedar brackets, ceiling boards, and trim are protected from water traps, and the roof edge directs runoff away from the wall and doorway.
What you can transfer from this project—and what you cannot
| Reasonably transferable lesson | Why it still needs site verification |
|---|---|
| A finished beadboard underside can be protected from roofing nails by placing a roof-deck layer above it. | The required deck material, thickness, fastening, and structural role depend on the roof design and code. |
| Roofing is built as a sequence of deck, underlayment, edge flashing, shingles, and wall flashing. | Products, laps, edge order, and additional membranes vary by region and manufacturer. |
| Small nailers can support a later flat ceiling section. | Nailer size, spacing, attachment, and load capacity must match the actual ceiling layout. |
| Temporary diagonal supports can be replaced with finished brackets. | The permanent brackets must be engineered or verified to carry the loads, not merely look decorative. |
| A pendant can finish the portico ceiling visually. | Outdoor electrical locations require code-compliant boxes, wiring, grounding, and fixture ratings. |
Linauer’s practical warning is the right boundary for adapting this build: “So just be sure you’re familiar with any extra steps needed to prepare your roof for standing up to your regional climate.”
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