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Kristi Linauer’s 2011 project for John and Alice turned one heavy, solid-wood Craigslist dresser into a television console by keeping the bottom two drawers and rebuilding the interior around open equipment storage. It was a carpentry conversion, not simply a coat of paint: drawers, framing and supports were removed; MDF reinforcement, a divider and a shelf were added; then the body was painted while the top was stained and finished with polyurethane.
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Linauer reported paying $60 for this particular dresser in 2011. That is a historical, one-item project cost—not a current Craigslist average, a guaranteed saving or a price you should expect today.
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The project in one view
| Element | What the original account says |
|---|---|
| Source project | “Dresser Turned Television Console” by Kristi Linauer, published July 8, 2011; the page also displays a February 26, 2022 date. |
| Original purchase | One Craigslist dresser bought for $60 in 2011; Linauer described it as solid wood and quite heavy. |
| Destination | A television console for John and Alice’s family room. |
| Drawers retained | The bottom two drawers. |
| Drawers removed | All of the other drawers, leaving six unused drawers for a separate reuse project. |
| Structural work | Interior framing was cut back; MDF reinforcement, a center divider and a shelf were installed on glued and nailed supports. |
| Surface work | Exposed edges received MDF trim; gaps and nail holes were filled and sanded; the back was reattached. |
| Finish | Primer and paint on the body; stain and polyurethane on the top. |
The exact dimensions, cut measurements, paint color, hardware specifications and cable-routing method are not given in the account. Treat the project as a method you can adapt to your dresser, not as a universal cut list.
Why this was more than a dresser makeover
A paint-only refresh leaves the cabinet’s storage geometry intact. A television console needs a different interior: wide, open bays for a receiver, game console, streaming box or other equipment; a shelf that can carry their weight; and a back that allows practical access. Linauer therefore removed most of the drawer structure and much of the internal framing before rebuilding the portions that mattered.
Keeping the bottom two drawers preserved concealed storage and helped the piece still read as furniture rather than an improvised box. The open area above them created the equipment zone. Because the modification depended on the original dresser’s framing, every cut had to be evaluated on that specific cabinet. Another dresser may use thinner panels, different rails, a center stile or a structural back in a different location.
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Before buying materials, inspect the cabinet as a piece of furniture and as a load-bearing enclosure. Use these checks to decide how ambitious the conversion can be.
- Measure the outside and the usable inside. Record width, height and depth, then measure the clear opening after accounting for drawer fronts, rails, dividers and the back panel. The television, sound equipment and any ventilation space must fit inside those clear dimensions.
- Map the framing. Open every drawer and look for vertical stiles, horizontal rails, center supports and the way the back is attached. The original maker trimmed supports, but the cuts were tailored to her dresser.
- Check the material and condition. Linauer called her example solid wood and heavy. Do not assume another listing has the same construction. Look for swelling, loose joints, veneer that is lifting, cracked drawer boxes, insect damage and a water-damaged base.
- Test stability. Push the empty dresser from the front and sides. If it racks or rocks, repair the joints and level the base before removing interior parts. A television makes instability more consequential.
- Plan access. Decide where equipment will be placed, how you will reach the controls and how cables will leave the cabinet. The original account does not document its cable solution, so this is a design decision for your version.
- Confirm the final location. Measure doorways, stair turns and the wall where the console will sit. A solid-wood dresser can be difficult to move even before a television and electronics are added.
Tools and materials for the general method
Linauer’s account names broad tool and supply categories rather than specific products or models. You may need an electric sander for furniture refinishing, a hand saw, a circular saw, a nail gun, MDF boards, wood glue, wood filler, primer, paint, stain and polyurethane. Select sizes and formulations for your cabinet and follow each product’s safety and drying instructions.
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- Layout and removal: tape measure, pencil, square, screwdrivers and containers for hardware.
- Cutting and assembly: hand saw and circular saw for controlled cuts, MDF for reinforcement and shelf parts, glue and nails for fixed supports.
- Surface preparation: electric sander, suitable abrasive sheets, wood filler and clean rags.
- Finishing: primer and paint for the body, stain and polyurethane for a wood top, plus brushes or applicators appropriate to those coatings.
These are the historical project categories Linauer described, not tested current recommendations, price claims or an endorsement of a particular brand.
Step-by-step: rebuilding the dresser as a console
1. Photograph and label the original cabinet
Take pictures of the front, back and open interior before removing anything. Label drawers, rails and hardware by position. Keep the bottom two drawers and their slides together. This record gives you a reference if a support must be restored or a drawer needs to be reinstalled temporarily while you check alignment.
2. Remove the drawers you will not retain
Pull out the upper and middle drawers and remove their slides or guides as the construction allows. The original conversion retained only the bottom two drawers and removed the others. Do not cut until you know whether a rail is also tying the side panels together; mark structural pieces separately from disposable drawer parts.
3. Open the equipment area carefully
Trim internal supports and framing only where they obstruct the planned equipment bay. Work in small cuts and test-fit the components repeatedly. Preserve the side walls, bottom and any frame that keeps the case square. If removing a rail makes the cabinet flex, stop and add temporary bracing before continuing.
4. Add MDF reinforcement and a center divider
Linauer added MDF reinforcement and a center divider after opening the interior. Size these parts from measurements taken on your dresser, not from a generic diagram. Dry-fit each piece, check that the cabinet remains square, then secure the supports with wood glue and nails where appropriate. The divider can organize equipment and provide a solid edge for the shelf, but its exact placement depends on the width of your opening and the devices you intend to store.
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5. Build the shelf on glued and nailed supports
Install cleats or other supports at matching heights on both sides, then fit the shelf and verify that it is level from front to back. Leave enough vertical clearance for the tallest component and enough room to operate buttons or remove cables. Glue-and-nail construction was used in the original project; allow the adhesive to cure according to its label before loading the shelf.
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Cut trim strips to hide exposed MDF and newly cut edges. This improves the appearance and gives primer and paint a consistent surface. Keep trim flush with adjoining faces so drawer fronts can open without catching. Where two pieces meet, dry-fit first and mark the joint before applying adhesive or nails.
7. Fill, sand and clean
Fill gaps, nail holes and visible transitions with wood filler. Once dry, sand the repairs and the rest of the body until loose finish and rough fibers are removed. An electric sander speeds broad flat areas, but hand-sand corners and profiles to avoid rounding them over. Remove all dust before priming; dust left on the surface will show through the finish.
8. Reattach or repair the back
Linauer reattached the back after the interior work. Check that the panel is sound and that it does not block the equipment openings or the cable path you have planned. If the original back has become loose, square the cabinet first, then fasten it securely without pinching wires or closing off necessary ventilation.
9. Finish the body and top separately
The original finish combined painted sides and a stained, polyurethane-coated top. Prime the prepared body before applying paint, respecting the coating’s recoat time. For a wood top, sand evenly, apply stain according to its instructions and protect it with polyurethane after the stain has dried. The account does not identify the paint color, stain color or number of coats, so choose those to suit your room and the existing wood.
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10. Reinstall the drawers and load equipment
Return the bottom two drawers only after the finish has cured enough for normal handling. Check that each drawer opens without rubbing the new divider or shelf. Place equipment so its weight is supported by the shelf or cabinet base, not by a thin decorative panel, and verify that the television is stable before walking away from the installation.
Independent reader supportYour contribution helps us test, update, and keep practical guides available for everyone.Cable routing and ventilation: plan your own solution
A reader asked how the project handled television and power cables, but the published account does not state the answer. Do not assume that a hole, grommet or raceway was used. On your dresser, identify the outlet location, the path to each device and the need to unplug equipment without emptying the console.
- Mark a cable exit on the back panel where it will not collide with a shelf support or drawer.
- Keep power cords and signal cables from being crushed against sharp cut edges; protect an opening with a suitable grommet or edge treatment.
- Leave the equipment manufacturer’s required clearance around vents. Do not seal a hot component in a tight compartment simply because it fits.
- Make the route accessible for inspection and replacement. A removable back section or deliberately placed opening is easier to service than a hidden cable trapped behind the cabinet.
These are adaptation principles, not a reconstruction of Linauer’s undocumented cable layout.
What happened to the six removed drawers?
A related July 2011 post explains that the conversion left six good drawers with attractive handles. Linauer floated several reuse ideas: a planter, a shelf and under-bed storage, and asked readers what they would do with them. The drawers are therefore part of the project’s afterlife rather than waste that must be discarded. Before reusing one, inspect its bottom, joints and handle attachment, and choose a use that suits its depth and finish.
Adapt the idea without copying the cuts
| If your dresser has… | Prioritize… |
|---|---|
| A strong case but crowded interior framing | Mapping supports first, then removing only the rails that block equipment; add reinforcement before loading the shelf. |
| A shallow cabinet | Measuring the deepest device and cable bend radius before committing to the conversion. |
| Many drawers you want to keep | Considering a smaller open bay or a different component layout instead of removing most drawer boxes. |
| A weak or damaged back | Repairing or replacing it while preserving service access and ventilation. |
| A veneer or mixed-material body | Testing sanding and primer in an inconspicuous spot; do not assume the solid-wood preparation described for Linauer’s dresser applies. |
| Limited cutting and finishing tools | Reducing the scope, getting help with structural cuts or choosing a piece that already has an open center. |
Common problems and practical fixes
The cabinet twists after drawers are removed
Stop cutting and brace the case temporarily. Recheck which rails were structural, then add a divider, cleat or panel that restores stiffness before proceeding. A level shelf cannot compensate for a cabinet that is no longer square.
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The new shelf sags or rocks
Verify that both supports are at the same height and fully attached. Shorten the span with a center divider or add a front support if the material and equipment load require it. Test with the actual components before painting.
Drawer fronts rub after the rebuild
Check for trim or a divider projecting into the drawer path. Sand or reposition the obstruction only after confirming that the drawer box remains supported and the cabinet is square.
Paint highlights every repair
Uneven filler, dust and unprimed MDF can telegraph through paint. Let filler dry, sand it flush, remove dust and prime porous edges before the finish coat.
The top looks blotchy after staining
Stop before applying polyurethane. The original account does not specify the top’s species or preparation, so your wood may absorb stain differently. Test the complete stain-and-topcoat sequence on a hidden area or a scrap with similar grain.
Equipment runs hot
Recheck the clearance around vents and the cable opening. Move the component, enlarge the access path or revise the back rather than operating it in a sealed compartment.
What the historical account can—and cannot—tell you
This is one maker’s account of one 2011 dresser conversion. It establishes that a $60 Craigslist purchase became a family-room television console, that only the bottom two drawers remained, and that the interior required substantial MDF and carpentry work. It does not establish a typical dresser price, average project savings, a current tool cost, a universal set of dimensions or a design proven on every dresser.
Linauer later called the conversion one of her favorite before-and-after projects in a 2011 year-end retrospective. She also noted that the finished piece could function as a buffet or entryway furnishing. Those alternate uses make sense only if the rebuilt shelf, divider and cabinet remain appropriate for the loads and access that use requires.
Quick Recap
Reader questions the original post leaves open
- What paint color was used? The account does not specify a color.
- How were the television cables handled? The account does not document the routing method; plan that detail for your own cabinet.
- Can I use the same measurements? No measurements are supplied, and the author cautions that another dresser will likely be built differently.
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