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This March 19, 2015 bathroom update is a work-in-progress account, not a finished-room reveal. Kristi Linauer had painted two walls Behr Crisp Celery, was building board-and-batten wainscoting, and had turned leftover plywood strips into furniture-style trim for the vanity. The wainscoting and vanity painting were still unfinished, but the post shows how color, wood, tile and economical reuse were being coordinated.
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What the bathroom looked like at this stage
Linauer’s post captures the room while several decisions were still being tested. Two walls had received Behr Crisp Celery, the wainscoting was underway, and the vanity countertop had gone through repeated staining. She was still planning additional trim, a tile border and the final paint work, so none of these observations should be read as a completed-room result.
The wall color
Linauer describes Crisp Celery as light, fresh and unmistakably green. That is her firsthand impression of the color in this bathroom, rather than a universal description that will look identical in every room. She liked the way it contrasted with the white tub tile and the stained wood ceiling. Those surrounding surfaces are important: the green was being judged against bright white ceramic and warm wood, not in isolation.
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The unfinished wainscoting
At this point the lower wall read as conventional board and batten. Linauer planned to add more trim and a tile border along the top. Her intention was for that tile border to continue around the vanity countertop as a backsplash, creating a visual connection between the wall treatment and the sink area. Because the cap and backsplash had not yet been installed, the post documents the plan rather than the final junction between tile, trim and countertop.
How the colors and materials were being coordinated
| Element | Documented choice | Status in the post |
|---|---|---|
| Upper wall paint | Behr Crisp Celery | Two walls painted; Linauer described it as light and clearly green |
| Tub surround | White tile | Existing contrast for the green walls |
| Ceiling | Stained wood | Existing warm-toned surface that Linauer liked with the paint |
| Wainscoting | Board-and-batten-style construction with more trim planned | Underway and unfinished |
| Wainscoting cap and vanity backsplash | Tile border intended to continue around the countertop | Planned, not documented as complete |
| Vanity countertop | Equal parts Rustoleum Summer Oak, Traditional Cherry and Dark Walnut | Restained five times before the chosen mix |
Linauer said the countertop ended up dark brown with a hint of red. She also noted that the grain was more apparent in person than it appeared in photographs, a useful caution when judging a stained surface from online images.
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The countertop stain decision
Why she mixed colors
She could not find a ready-made stain color she liked, so she mixed three stains in equal amounts: Rustoleum Summer Oak, Traditional Cherry and Dark Walnut. The equal-part recipe belongs to this project; it is not a general formula for every wood species or countertop. Absorption, previous finish and the wood itself can change the result.
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What five restainings tell you
The countertop had been restained five times. That detail shows how much iteration was involved before she accepted the color, but it is not a recommendation to apply five coats to another countertop. Repeated staining can deepen or shift color unpredictably, especially if an earlier coat has not dried or if the surface was not uniformly prepared. On a separate project, test the intended mixture on a hidden area or an offcut that has been prepared in the same way as the countertop.
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Turning leftover plywood into vanity end trim
Instead of buying solid end panels, Linauer reused plywood strip offcuts left from the project. Her stated reason was to avoid spending more, and the added layers gave the vanity a furniture-like appearance rather than leaving it looking like a plain built-in cabinet.
The documented construction sequence
- Cut four strips to 30 inches. The post gives this length but does not give the strip width, plywood species or a complete cut list.
- Center the strips on an end panel. The four pieces were positioned as a centered feature on the panel.
- Glue and secure the strips. Linauer used wood glue and short finishing nails.
- Frame the panel. Additional strips were added around the centered detail to create a framed look.
- Add lower trim. She continued the treatment along the bottom edge.
- Add narrow front-edge trim. Narrow pieces were placed on the front vertical edges.
- Repeat the treatment on both ends. Even the end that would sit against a wall received matching trim so the vanity would remain visually consistent.
This is one DIYer’s project-specific method, not a universal cabinet-building specification. The post does not establish measured spacing, strip dimensions beyond the 30-inch length, fastener gauge, wood species or a structural-load requirement. Those details must be determined from the actual vanity, available clearance and the thickness of the material you have.
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Why trim a hidden end?
Trimming both ends keeps the furniture language consistent if the vanity is viewed from an angle, moved later or exposed by a change in the room layout. The trade-off is practical: Linauer acknowledged that the extra detail could make cleaning harder. More ledges and narrow recesses mean more places for dust, hair and moisture to collect, so the visual payoff should be weighed against maintenance.
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Readers asked about the spacing of the vertical board beside the vanity and described trying a similar powder-room project. Linauer’s post does not provide a universal spacing rule, and there is no single “right” gap established by this project. Treat spacing as a layout decision that must be drawn against the room, the vanity width and the locations of corners, plumbing and other interruptions.
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A practical layout check
- Mark the vanity’s actual finished width and the edges of the countertop before fixing battens.
- Check where the first and last vertical boards will land at corners and beside door or casing trim.
- Keep the visual rhythm intentional: a narrow leftover sliver at one end can look accidental even when the nominal spacing is equal.
- Decide how the vertical board meets the vanity side and the planned tile cap before cutting permanently.
- Use temporary marks or painter’s tape to review the pattern from the room entrance and from the sink.
The useful question is not whether a particular number is standard; it is whether the chosen pattern balances the wall and avoids awkward conflicts with the vanity and trim. Measure the actual room rather than copying a spacing value from a photograph.
Painting a vanity after the trim work
A separate Sherwin-Williams manufacturer guide outlines a preparation sequence for painting bathroom vanity cabinets. Those instructions are general guidance from the manufacturer and do not establish which products Linauer used in the 2015 project. They are best treated as a checklist for a reader continuing similar work.
Preparation and painting sequence
- Remove doors, drawers and hardware. Label parts if necessary so they return to their original locations.
- Clean the surfaces. Wash with water and degreasing dish soap to remove bathroom residue. Rinse twice and allow the pieces to dry.
- Protect adjacent areas. Mask walls, countertop sections, tile and other surfaces that should remain unpainted.
- Scuff-sand and fill imperfections. Dull the existing finish and use wood filler where needed, then remove dust before priming.
- Test primer adhesion. Apply primer in an inconspicuous spot and check that it bonds before coating visible areas.
- Prime the prepared surfaces. The guide recommends a bonding or stain-blocking primer; its supply list names Extreme Bond Primer.
- Apply three paint coats total. The manufacturer guide lists Emerald Urethane Trim Enamel and specifies three coats in its sequence.
- Allow overnight drying. Leave the finish to dry overnight before reassembly or normal use, following the product label for current formulation-specific instructions.
Because product names and formulations can change, verify current labels and availability before buying. The named products above are recommendations in that separate manufacturer guide, not evidence that they were used on Linauer’s vanity.
Lead-paint safety note
The manufacturer guide warns that sanding or scraping old paint can release lead-containing dust or fumes. It directs readers to use appropriate protective equipment, contain the work area and clean up safely. That warning applies to the hazard of disturbing older coatings; it does not establish the age or lead status of the surfaces in Linauer’s bathroom. If the coating’s history is unknown, follow applicable local guidance for testing and containment before disturbing it.
Materials checklist for a similar project
| Task | Materials documented or recommended | What is not established |
|---|---|---|
| Vanity end detail | Leftover plywood strips, wood glue and short finishing nails | Strip width, plywood species, nail size and spacing plan |
| Countertop color | Equal parts Summer Oak, Traditional Cherry and Dark Walnut stains | Whether the same mix suits another wood species or existing finish |
| Cabinet preparation | Water, degreasing dish soap, painter’s tape, sanding material and wood filler | Exact quantities and current package sizes |
| Priming and coating | Bonding or stain-blocking primer; the guide names Extreme Bond Primer and Emerald Urethane Trim Enamel | Proof that these products were used in the original project or that they are the best choice for every surface |
What this progress report can—and cannot—tell you
- It documents a light green wall color chosen to contrast with white tile and stained wood.
- It shows a wainscoting concept that was still waiting for additional trim and a tile cap that would continue as a vanity backsplash.
- It records five countertop restainings and an equal-parts three-stain blend that produced a dark brown tone with a red hint for this project.
- It demonstrates how plywood offcuts can create framed, furniture-like vanity ends without purchasing solid panels.
- It does not provide a finished-room verdict, a complete wainscoting cut list, a universal batten spacing standard or comparative durability testing.
For anyone following the same path, the most transferable lesson is the sequence of decisions: establish the wall-and-wood color relationship, lay out the wainscoting against the real vanity, test stain and primer on representative surfaces, and use leftover material where it improves the appearance without creating maintenance problems you do not want.
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