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Part 2 turns a functioning queen-size pine platform-bed frame into a furniture-like piece. The work is mostly cosmetic: add a mitered 1×2 cap at the top edge, hide exposed screw heads and rough board ends with vertical 1×2 pieces, then attach moulding on the three visible sides. The result still needs filler, sanding, stain and protective polyurethane.
This is a recreation of Kristi Linauer’s 2013 personal build account, not an engineered bed plan. The posts give dimensions and joinery details but no tested load rating or structural certification, so inspect every connection and adapt the construction to your own mattress, occupants and floor conditions.
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What Part 2 adds to the bed
The base frame from Part 1 is already assembled and usable before this installment begins. It is a queen-size rectangle made from pine 1×8 boards: two end boards cut to 60 inches and two side boards cut to 81.5 inches. The frame has 2×3 side and center supports, feet made from scrap for the center supports, and sixteen 1×4 slats cut just under 60 inches. Linauer says she spaced the slats evenly by eye rather than measuring a specified gap, so those dimensions should not be treated as a universal slat-spacing standard.
Part 2 does not change the mattress opening or add a new support system. It hides the visual evidence of construction and gives the upper edge a finished profile:
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- A 1×2 frame is fitted around the top edge with mitered corners.
- Vertical 1×2 pieces cover visible cut ends and screw heads at the corners.
- Decorative moulding is installed on the foot and side faces, but not on the headboard face against the wall.
Because the original account does not publish a complete cut list for every trim piece, measure your assembled frame rather than copying a guessed length. Lumber width, saw kerf, corner squareness and the exact moulding profile all change the required cuts.
Materials, tools and prerequisites
Confirm the frame before trimming
Trim should be the last carpentry stage, not a way to force a crooked frame into alignment. Check that the outer boards are firmly screwed, the 2×3 supports are secure, the center feet contact the floor, and the slats sit consistently on their supports. Dry-fit a mattress or use a full-size template to confirm that the finished trim will not reduce the intended opening.
Materials used in the account
- Straight, smooth pine for visible stained surfaces, including 1×2 trim and the frame boards.
- Decorative moulding for the three exposed sides.
- 1 1/4-inch brad nails.
- Wood filler for nail holes, cracks and two remaining screw holes.
- Wood conditioner, stain and polyurethane for the finishing sequence.
Part 1 also lists pine boards, 2×3 supports, 1×4 slats, wood glue, #8 2-inch wood screws, decorative feet and mounting plates, a miter saw, tape measure, brad nailer and other basic measuring and fastening supplies. A stainable wood filler is a reasonable generic category for the visible repairs, but the project does not identify a brand or establish that every filler accepts stain equally. Follow the label for the finish you choose.
Tools that make the trim manageable
- A miter saw for repeatable 45-degree corner cuts and square crosscuts.
- A tape measure, pencil, combination square and a straightedge.
- A brad nailer set up for 1 1/4-inch brads.
- Clamps or painter’s tape to hold moulding while adhesive or nails are positioned.
- Sandpaper or a sanding block for leveling filler and smoothing the pine before stain.
Use eye and hearing protection with the saw and nailer. Keep hands outside the saw’s cutting zone, support long stock, and disconnect pneumatic tools before clearing a jam.
Step 1: Fit the mitered 1×2 top frame
Linauer repeats the visual approach used at the bottom edge: a 1×2 border follows the top perimeter, with the corners mitered so the end grain is less conspicuous. The top frame is a cover, not a substitute for the screws and supports that carry the bed structure.
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- Measure each run on the assembled frame. Record the actual outside length of each side. Do not assume opposite sides are identical if the frame is slightly out of square.
- Mark the 1×2 stock. Identify which face will be visible and keep the best grain toward the room. Mark the waste side of every cut.
- Cut one test corner. Make a 45-degree miter and place it against the adjacent piece. Check the fit on the real frame before cutting the remaining pieces.
- Cut the remaining runs. Keep the paired miters oriented as mirror images. A stop block helps repeat a length, but verify each piece against the frame.
- Dry-fit the complete perimeter. Look for open points, overhangs and interference with the mattress opening. Adjust the cut ends before fastening.
- Fasten the trim. Apply a thin, even bead of wood glue if desired, then nail where the 1×2 has solid backing. Countersink brad heads just below the surface without breaking through the face.
Work around the perimeter in a consistent direction so the last joint closes where you can reach it comfortably. If a corner opens, correct the angle or the frame alignment rather than filling a large triangular void with putty.
Step 2: Hide corner screws and rough board ends
The outer frame leaves screw heads and cut ends visible at the corners. Linauer covers those areas with vertical 1×2 pieces cut to fit between the lower and upper trim. These pieces create a clean face for stain while also concealing the construction hardware.
- Measure the opening at each corner. Measure from the bottom trim to the new top trim. Repeat at all four corners; small differences are common.
- Cut a vertical cover for one corner. A square-cut piece is the quickest method. Test it in place and mark any wall or moulding interference.
- Choose the visible face. Linauer places the more visible whole pieces toward the foot of the bed and leaves the seam on the sides.
- Fasten the cover. Drive brads through the thickest part of the 1×2 into the underlying frame, avoiding the existing screw line where possible.
- Repeat around the frame. Keep the reveals consistent, but prioritize a tight fit over forcing every piece to an identical nominal length.
A more exact treatment would miter the ends of these vertical corner covers. Linauer accepts a seam with square-cut pieces, then plans to fill and sand it. That is a useful trade-off: miters demand more measuring and sharper saw setup, while square pieces are faster and easier to replace if one is damaged.
| Corner-cover approach | What it changes | Best fit for |
|---|---|---|
| Square-cut 1×2, seam filled | Fast installation; visible joint remains until filler and sanding are complete | A practical build where the foot-facing pieces can be made whole |
| Mitered corner-cover ends | Cleaner visual transition; more layout and cutting accuracy required | A furniture-grade appearance when you are willing to spend more time fitting |
Step 3: Install moulding on the visible sides
The decorative moulding is installed on three sides. The headboard side is intentionally omitted because it sits against the wall and will not be seen. This is a visual decision, not a structural one; adding moulding there would consume material without improving the room-facing appearance.
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Place the bed where it will be used, or mark the wall-facing side before moving it. Identify the foot and the two long sides as the visible faces. Measure each run separately, account for the profile’s spring angle and high points, and make a simple dry layout on the frame.
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Cut and position the profile
- Cut one short sample and hold it against the frame to confirm the profile orientation.
- Transfer the actual face lengths to the moulding, marking inside or outside miters as appropriate.
- Dry-fit adjacent pieces so the pattern and corners meet without forcing the trim.
- Support the moulding at several points while fastening; thin profiles can flex away from the frame.
Nail through the thickest part
Linauer says she shot 1 1/4-inch brad nails through the thickest part of the trim with a nail gun. Follow that placement so the nail has the best chance of entering solid wood rather than splitting a thin decorative edge. Set the nailer’s depth on scrap first. The nail should sit just below the surface for filler, not punch through the visible face or emerge inside the mattress area.
Brad nails hold the moulding in position, but do not mistake them for the screws and supports that make up the underlying frame. Keep fastener spacing consistent and avoid concentrating nails near a mitered tip, where the profile is most likely to split.
Step 4: Fill, sand and prepare the pine
Do not stain immediately after nailing. The account’s planned sequence is to fill nail holes, cracks and two remaining screw holes, sand the repaired areas smooth, then stain and apply polyurethane.
- Inspect under raking light. A light held nearly parallel to the surface reveals dents, proud nail heads, open miters and torn grain.
- Apply filler sparingly. Press it into each hole and crack, slightly overfilling so shrinkage does not leave a depression. Remove excess from surrounding grain.
- Allow the filler to dry according to its label. Drying time varies by product, hole depth and humidity.
- Sand the repairs flush. Blend the edges into the surrounding pine without rounding the trim profile. Sand the rest of the visible surface evenly so one area does not absorb stain differently from another.
- Remove dust completely. Vacuum and wipe with a clean, compatible cloth before conditioning or staining.
Test the filler and stain combination on an offcut or hidden area. A filler that looks invisible when raw can remain lighter or darker after staining, especially on soft pine. If the product label excludes stained finishes, choose a formulation intended for that use rather than assuming compatibility.
Step 5: Condition, stain and protect the wood
In the completion post, Linauer reports using wood conditioner followed by Rust-Oleum wood stain in the Carrington color on pine. She liked the color and coverage after one coat. That is her result with one named color and one pine project, not evidence that every stain or application method will behave the same way.
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Conditioning
Pine can absorb stain unevenly because its softer areas take up more liquid than dense areas. If you use a conditioner, apply it exactly as directed, observe the product’s recoat window, and stain within that window. Conditioner changes absorption; it does not guarantee a uniform result.
Staining
Stir the stain rather than shaking it, work in manageable sections and maintain a wet edge. Wipe off excess at the time stated on the label. Compare the color on the trim, frame boards and any filled repairs before committing to every face. Record the number of coats and drying conditions so you can match a replacement piece later.
Polyurethane
Linauer planned additional polyurethane coats and fine sanding to even the sheen when she first called the bed finished. Follow the selected product’s instructions for compatible surfaces, dry time, intercoat sanding and ventilation. Keep the bed out of service until the finish is fully cured according to the label, not merely dry to the touch.
Independent reader supportYour contribution helps us test, update, and keep practical guides available for everyone.Design and cost choices recorded in the project
| Choice | What the account says | Important limit |
|---|---|---|
| Straighter, smoother pine | Chosen for visible surfaces that would be stained | It improves appearance and workability; no strength or longevity test is reported |
| Lower-grade pine | Suggested as an option when the bed will be painted | It is a personal suggestion, not a documented price comparison |
| Decorative turned feet and mounting plates | About $50 of the reported project cost | The figure is historical and specific to the 2013 build |
| Tapered 4×4 legs | Suggested as a less expensive alternative to turned feet | No current price, load rating or tested joint detail is provided |
| Square corner-cover seams | Accepted and planned for filler and sanding | Miters can look cleaner but require more precise fitting |
The completion post reports a total of about $330 for the project, including the approximately $50 spent on turned feet and plates. Treat that as a 2013 historical account, not a current budget. Lumber, hardware, finish and trim prices vary by region and have changed substantially since then.
Common problems and practical fixes
Open miter at the top edge
Check whether the frame corner is square and whether both trim pieces are seated at the same height. Recutting a small amount from the long point is usually cleaner than packing the entire joint with filler.
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Corner cover does not sit flat
Look for a proud screw head, a bowed board or a support directly behind the 1×2. Remove the obstruction or reposition the cover; do not pull the piece tight with excessive brad pressure.
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Move the nail farther from the end, reduce nailer pressure or predrill a delicate profile if the manufacturer permits. A split decorative edge will telegraph through stain and is harder to disguise than a small relocated hole.
Filler remains visible after staining
Stop before coating the rest of the bed. Test a compatible filler and finish on scrap, then decide whether to accept the variation, recolor the repair or replace the trim piece. More stain does not reliably make every filler match.
The bed rocks after trim is installed
Trim should not be used to level the structure. Recheck the floor, center-support feet, outer supports and screw connections. Because the source gives no independently tested capacity, have a qualified builder assess any frame that flexes, rocks or separates under normal use.
What this project does—and does not—establish
The three Addicted 2 Decorating posts, published November 4–6, 2013, document one person’s queen-size pine bed: its dimensions, supports, trim choices, finishing experience and reported cost. They do not provide an engineered drawing set, a formal safety standard, a certified material grade or a tested load limit. Use the dimensions as a record of that build and verify every joint, support and clearance for your own application.
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Once the trim is fitted, repaired, sanded and sealed, the bed should read as a deliberate piece of furniture rather than an exposed construction frame. The cosmetic work is complete only when the finish has cured and the underlying frame remains stable under ordinary, cautious inspection.
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