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These tall, door-front cabinets replace conventional closets on both sides of a bed while preserving a narrow place for a phone, drink, glasses or book. The example below is Kristi Linauer’s small-condo project, not a universal cut list: every width, height and clearance must be recalculated for your room before you cut material.
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What this bedside-closet design solves
A full-height cabinet beside each side of the bed can turn otherwise awkward wall space into enclosed clothing storage. Linauer narrowed the units enough to leave room for a queen bed and slim bedside shelves or tables. The result is a built-in appearance without consuming the entire bedside zone.
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The project replaces existing closets with two cabinet-like enclosures. Each cabinet has a tall framed door, a simple carcass and an interior configured for the clothes that belong there. One side stores long garments; the other uses two shorter-hanging levels. Linauer reports approximately 69 inches of hanging storage across both finished units.
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There are many valid ways to build this type of closet. As Linauer put it in her November 10, 2014 Part 1 article, “There are probably 100 different ways to go about building a closet like this, so let me show you how I did mine.” Treat the dimensions and material choices as a documented example rather than a plan that can be transferred unchanged.
Measure the room before designing a cabinet
The most important work happens before shopping. A tall cabinet that is only an inch too wide can eliminate the bedside surface you wanted, interfere with a door, or make the bed impossible to move into position.
Record the critical dimensions
- Measure finished floor to ceiling at both cabinet locations. Note variations caused by a sloping floor or ceiling.
- Measure the wall width available on each side of the bed, including baseboards, trim and any outlet or switch boxes.
- Record the bed’s actual width and the clearance you want for a narrow shelf or table. Do not assume a nominal mattress size is the same as the complete bed frame.
- Mark the door swing and the arc of any nearby room or closet door. A tall cabinet door must open without striking the bed, wall or light switch.
- Locate wall studs and identify plumbing, wiring and other obstructions before choosing fastener locations.
- Decide whether the cabinet will sit on the existing floor, over flooring, or against a baseboard that must be removed or notched.
Draw a front elevation and a side view. Include the carcass thickness, face trim, door overlay, hinge side and the space needed to remove or adjust the hanging rods. This drawing is your actual cut-list reference; the published example does not provide a complete transferable list for every room.
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Linauer’s cabinet used different sheet thicknesses for the fixed and free-standing parts. The wall-attached pieces were 1/2-inch MDF, while the free-standing side was 3/4-inch MDF. A framed base lifted the carcass, and solid lumber supplied the visible face frame.
| Part | Example specification | How to use the figure |
|---|---|---|
| Wall backing | 24.5 inches wide × 95 3/4 inches tall | Project-specific measurement; recalculate for your wall and ceiling. |
| Rear piece at adjacent wall | 23 inches wide | Example only; account for wall conditions and cabinet depth. |
| Door substrate | 1/2-inch plywood, 20 inches wide × 86.5 inches tall | Size depends on the finished opening, overlay and hinge layout. |
| Wall-attached carcass pieces | 1/2-inch MDF | Use only after confirming your fastening and support method. |
| Free-standing side | 3/4-inch MDF | Example thickness, not a structural rating. |
| Base frame | 2-by-6 lumber with a 2-by-4 central support, covered by 1/2-inch MDF | Adapt the frame to the cabinet footprint and floor conditions. |
| Face frame | 1-by-3 stiles and 1-by-6 rails | Solid lumber was selected for the visible frame. |
| Door framing | 1-by-3 lumber stiles and rails | Applied over the plywood substrate. |
The material list also includes glue, screws, nails, caulk, a magnetic catch, adjustable closet rods, filler, sandpaper, primer, paint and a brush. The listed tools are a circular saw, drill, compressor, 16- and 18-gauge nailers, framing square, caulk gun and level. Those are options suited to the documented build, not mandatory purchases; choose safe tools you can control and use the fasteners recommended for your material and wall.
Build the carcass in a safe, square sequence
1. Prepare the wall and backing
Remove conflicting trim and the old closet components, then mark stud centers and the cabinet outline. Cut the 1/2-inch MDF backing to your measured height and width. Set it in position, check that its edges are plumb, and fasten it to studs with appropriate screws. Do not rely on drywall alone for a tall cabinet.
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2. Add the rear piece
Fit the rear piece against the adjacent wall as shown in the example. Check the corner with a framing square before adding permanent fasteners. A wall that is out of square may require a scribed edge or a deliberate shim; forcing the panel into place can twist the cabinet and cause a door to bind.
3. Install the free-standing side
Apply glue where the plans call for a joined edge, position the 3/4-inch MDF side, and secure it with nails or screws appropriate to the joint. Check the front edge for plumb and the top for level. Measure the diagonals or use a square to verify that the opening has not racked before the adhesive sets.
4. Close accessible corners
Linauer caulked corners while she could still reach them. Do the same after confirming the box is square, using a paintable caulk compatible with the surfaces. Sealing gaps now is easier than trying to reach a hidden joint after the face frame and door are installed.
5. Build and level the base
Assemble the 2-by-6 frame with its 2-by-4 central support, then cover it with the 1/2-inch MDF panel. Set the base in its final location and shim it until level in both directions. A level base prevents the tall cabinet from leaning and reduces the adjustment required at the hinges. Secure the base and carcass to structural framing rather than treating the base as a freestanding platform.
6. Apply the face frame
Cut the 1-by-3 stiles and 1-by-6 rails to fit the actual opening. Dry-fit them, confirm equal reveals and check that the door will clear the frame. Glue and nail the pieces in place, filling nail holes after the adhesive cures. Linauer preferred solid lumber for this face framing because she regarded the rails and stiles as important to the structure; that is her project judgment, not an independent engineering test.
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Cut the 1/2-inch plywood substrate to the opening you measured, allowing for the intended overlay and hinge-side gaps. The example substrate was 20 inches wide by 86.5 inches tall. That number cannot be copied safely unless your finished opening is identical.
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- Lay the plywood on a flat surface and verify that its corners are square.
- Cut 1-by-3 lumber for the door stiles and rails. Dry-fit the frame around the plywood and keep the outside edges flush.
- Glue and nail the lumber to the substrate, checking diagonals before the adhesive sets.
- Cover exposed plywood edges with lattice strips. Fill joints and nail holes, then sand them smooth.
- Add the decorative base-cap moulding shown in the project, or omit it if it conflicts with your room’s baseboard and clearances.
- Prime all exposed MDF, plywood and end grain before painting. MDF edges absorb finish rapidly; several thin, sanded coats produce a more even surface than one heavy coat.
The completed door was hung with three cabinet hinges. Position hinges according to the door height and the hinge manufacturer’s requirements, support the door while fastening, and adjust the reveals before installing the magnetic catch. A catch keeps the door closed; it is not a substitute for properly aligned hinges or a sound cabinet attachment.
Configure the interior for your wardrobe
Long-garment side
In the finished example, the right closet has an upper shelf and one adjustable rod below it for long clothing. Leave enough vertical room for the garments you actually hang, and keep the shelf removable or adjustable if possible so the interior can evolve.
Short-garment side
The left closet has two rods for shorter garments. Two levels can use the same footprint more efficiently for shirts, folded trousers or children’s clothing, but they are unsuitable for coats and dresses that need the full height.
Install adjustable rods only after the door and face frame are in place. Verify that rod ends, brackets and clothing will not collide with the door, hinge cups or the bedside surface. The reported 69 inches of combined hanging storage belongs to Linauer’s completed pair; your usable length will change with cabinet width, trim thickness and rod placement.
Finish the cabinet for a painted built-in look
Painting is where the MDF, plywood and solid wood become visually consistent. Sand exposed surfaces without rounding the crisp face-frame edges. Fill nail holes and open joints, caulk paintable seams, and remove dust before priming.
- Seal MDF edges and cutouts thoroughly; unsealed fibers can swell and show through the finish.
- Prime plywood and lumber separately if their absorption differs, then sand lightly between coats.
- Apply finish coats to the carcass, face frame and door before final hardware installation where access permits.
- Paint the door on a flat, supported surface and allow the finish to cure before hanging it, so the fresh edges do not stick to the frame.
- Use painter’s tape or a small brush to keep caulk and paint off hinges, catches and adjustable rod hardware.
Because the units are tall, inspect the top, hinge side and lower corners from normal standing height before declaring the finish complete. Uneven reveals are more noticeable on a pair of matching cabinets than on a single piece of furniture.
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Secure and test the installation
General built-in guidance from This Old House emphasizes marking studs, keeping cabinets level and plumb, fastening to wall studs, and allowing for door clearance. That guidance concerns a different closet and does not establish the load capacity or exact fasteners for this design, so apply it as an installation principle rather than a certification.
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- Recheck that the base is level and the cabinet sides are plumb.
- Drive structural fasteners into identified studs at the locations your construction permits.
- Open the door fully and confirm that it clears the bed, wall, bedside shelf and nearby trim.
- Load the rods gradually, watching for movement, sagging or fasteners pulling away. Stop and correct any movement before adding more clothing.
- Operate the door repeatedly, adjust the hinges for an even reveal, and verify that the magnetic catch engages without slamming.
Do not conceal an unstable or poorly anchored cabinet behind painted trim. A tall enclosure should remain square and securely attached before it receives clothing or daily use.
How this approach compares with a lower bedside cabinet
A tall closet is not automatically the best answer for every small bedroom. Ana White’s board-and-batten base cabinet/nightstand plan is an intermediate-level alternative built from 1-by-12 stock, 2-by-2s, 1-by-2 and 1-by-3 stock, a plywood scrap, hinges, fasteners and finish supplies. Its lower height can provide a broader bedside surface while offering cabinet storage rather than a hanging bay.
| Decision point | Tall flanking closet | Lower cabinet/nightstand |
|---|---|---|
| Primary storage | Hanging garments, with a shelf and one or two rods. | Enclosed shelves or cabinet space; no hanging capacity is established. |
| Height and visual effect | Tall, door-front enclosure that uses vertical wall area. | Lower furniture height with a more substantial bedside surface. |
| Bedside clearance | Designed to leave a narrow shelf or table beside the bed. | Can serve as the bedside surface itself, subject to its measured width. |
| Documented cost or capacity comparison | Not comparable to the lower plan; no independent cost, time or durability test is provided. | Not stated in the plan information. |
If you change dimensions in the lower cabinet plan, review its shopping list, cut list and assembly dimensions again: changing one part can affect several others. Choose the tall design when hanging storage is the priority and the room can tolerate a narrow bedside zone; choose the lower form when a usable tabletop matters more than a closet rod.
Common problems and practical fixes
The door rubs on one side
Check the carcass for plumb and square before adjusting the hinges. If the opening is twisted, hinge adjustment alone may hide rather than solve the cause. Confirm that face-frame trim and moulding are not projecting into the door path.
The cabinet leans or moves
Recheck the base for level, then confirm that the cabinet is fastened to studs. Shims can correct a floor variation, but they cannot replace structural attachment.
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Paint telegraphs MDF edges or nail holes
Fill, sand and prime again. Pay particular attention to cut edges and lattice joints, which absorb finish differently from the face of the sheet.
Clothes hit the door or hinges
Move the rod inward or use a narrower configuration only if the garments still fit. Test the full door swing with the rods loaded lightly before committing to final hardware positions.
The planned width leaves no bedside surface
Return to the elevation drawing and reduce cabinet width only after checking rod usefulness and door proportions. The original project deliberately narrowed the units to preserve room for a drink, phone, glasses or book; that clearance is part of the design goal, not leftover space.
What the original project achieved
In the November 17, 2014 follow-up, Linauer reported that the completed pair provided about 69 inches of hanging storage in total. She also reported roughly $168 per closet. That figure is the historical cost of her 2014 project, not a current budget: sheet goods, lumber, hardware, paint and tool prices vary by location and date.
The useful takeaway is the trade-off. By accepting narrower cabinet widths and building the units around the bed, the project gained enclosed hanging storage while retaining a small bedside landing area. Your final result should be judged against your own measured clearances, wardrobe needs and wall conditions rather than against the published dimensions.
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