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Pekinese stitch is made in two passes: first sew a line of backstitches, then lace a second thread through them to create a row of loops. For the lacing pass, guide the needle through the foundation stitches without piercing the fabric underneath. The result can be a textured outline, border or filling, with its weight shaped by thread choice, stitch spacing and loop tension.
What you need
You need fabric, embroidery thread and two needles suited to the jobs at hand: one for the backstitch foundation and a blunt needle for lacing. The Royal School of Needlework (RSN) recommends a tapestry needle for the second pass because it can travel under the foundation stitches without piercing the ground fabric.
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- For a fine line: use finer thread and leave more space between foundation stitches.
- For a bolder, denser line: use heavier thread, closer foundation stitches, or both.
- For visible loops: choose a contrasting or variegated lacing thread; matching colors make a quieter texture.
How to do a Pekinese stitch
1. Sew the backstitch foundation
Mark or follow the line you want to decorate. Sew evenly spaced backstitches along it, keeping their lengths consistent. The American Patchwork & Quilting appliqué demonstration spaces its foundation stitches about ¼ inch apart; treat that as an example rather than a fixed rule, since the best spacing depends on your design and thread.
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2. Bring up the lacing thread
With a second thread in a contrasting color if you want the loops to stand out, bring the needle up close to the foundation line. Use a blunt tapestry needle for this pass. The needle should travel through the backstitch row—not down through the fabric beneath it.
3. Lace through the foundation stitches
Work consistently along the line, passing the lacing thread under each foundation stitch and through the developing loops. The RSN’s method describes weaving under the next foundation stitch and under the previous loop while passing over the Pekinese thread. Follow one sequence without catching the ground fabric; the essential result is an even chain of loops linked through the backstitches.
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4. Adjust the loops as you go
Draw each loop to a similar size for a regular, defined line. Pulling the lacing thread snug makes the loops compact; leaving them looser produces a more open, loopy texture. Avoid yanking the thread tight, which can distort the line. If your design depends on exact spacing, test the thread and tension on a small fabric sample first.
Where Pekinese stitch works well
The RSN lists outlining, borders, filling and shading among its uses, and notes that the stitch can soften a severe-looking line. It suits a design that needs more texture than plain backstitch, including an outline around an appliqué shape—the use shown in the title tutorial. Two adjacent rows can also form a wider border, as described by Create Whimsy. Fine thread and small loops suit delicate details; a heavier thread or looser loops give a more pronounced texture. Fabric, scale and spacing affect the result, so sample first when precision matters.
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Why is it called Pekinese stitch?
The RSN lists Chinese stitch, forbidden stitch, blind stitch and Peking stitch as alternate names. The name is associated with China, but the RSN says there is no evidence for the stitch there before 1900; it dates Chinese Mandarin squares featuring it to the early twentieth century and identifies it as a filling stitch on late Qing squares. The Textile Research Centre Leiden describes its use in Han Chinese embroidery and later in places including Tunisia and the West. These documented names and examples do not establish a precise invention date or prove that the stitch was officially forbidden.
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