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knit fabric

How to Hem a T-Shirt or Knit Fabric Without Wavy Edges

Fold and press a knit hem, choose a stretch-capable stitch, and guide the fabric without pulling it to help prevent rippling.

By ThatPainter Team 3 min read
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To hem a T-shirt without stretching or rippling the edge, fold and press the hem allowance, then sew it with a stitch that can stretch—usually a narrow zigzag, compatible twin needle, or coverstitch. Feed the fabric evenly without pulling it, and test your stitch on a scrap first: knit fabrics and machine settings vary.

Why knit hems go wavy

The main challenge is preventing the shirt’s edge from stretching as it passes through the machine. Pulling or pushing the knit while sewing can distort the hem; once stretched, it may stay wavy. The hem also needs enough give for the garment to move over the body. A straight stitch can restrict that stretch or break when the fabric is pulled, except where the hem circumference is very large. Threads’ T-shirt guide identifies edge stretching as the central problem in hemming knits.

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Choose a stitch for the look and stretch you need

Compare the visible finish, stretch, and whether the raw allowance edge is covered. No single stitch is best for every knit; fabric weight, stretch, recovery, and intended use all matter.

Finish Appearance and construction Best fit
Narrow zigzag or stretch stitch Visible stitching; the zigzag shape accommodates movement. A practical home-machine option.
Twin needle Two parallel rows on the right side and a zigzag-like underside. Stretch can be limited, so test first. A familiar T-shirt look on a compatible machine.
Coverstitch Two or more parallel top rows and a looper stitch underneath that can cover the raw allowance edge; designed for a stretchy finish. Frequent knit sewing or a production-style finish; specialized equipment is not essential for a basic hem.
Machine stretch blind hem A narrow zigzag bite helps preserve stretch while keeping the stitch nearly invisible from the right side. A discreet finish on knits, including skirts and dresses.
Hand catchstitch or blind catchstitch A low-visibility hand-sewn stretch hem. Hand sewing or when machine topstitching is not wanted.

Check your sewing-machine manual before using a twin needle; machines differ in compatibility and setup. Whichever finish you choose, sew a test on a scrap of the same fabric and check both how it looks and whether the hem stretches and recovers without popping stitches.

How to sew the hem

  1. Fold and press. Decide on the hem allowance, fold it to the wrong side, and press the fold so it stays aligned. The right allowance depends on the garment and fabric; avoid stretching the edge as you handle it.
  2. Stabilize if needed. If the folded edge is hard to control, test fusible knit stay tape on a scrap, then use it to hold the allowance in place. Threads describes double-sided fusible tape for stabilizing a T-shirt hem and limiting stretch during stitching in its T-shirt guide. Tape is optional, and its effect should be checked on the specific fabric.
  3. Set up and test the stitch. Select a narrow zigzag for a basic machine finish, a compatible twin needle for parallel rows, a stretch blind-hem stitch for a discreet finish, or a coverstitch machine if you have one. Test on a fabric scrap before sewing the garment.
  4. Guide without pulling. Keep the fabric flat and let the machine feed it; do not stretch or push it through. In Brother’s coverstitch tutorial, Brother Sews Blogger Angela Wolf warns: “DO NOT STRETCH THE FABRIC!”
  5. Inspect the result. Check that the hem lies flat and still has enough stretch for the garment. If it ripples, stop and troubleshoot before sewing farther.

How to troubleshoot a wavy hem

  • Check how the fabric was fed. If you pulled or pushed the knit, that may have stretched the edge. Try another test seam, guiding the fabric evenly without tension.
  • Adjust the machine only as applicable. Brother’s coverstitch guidance identifies stitch length, differential feed, and presser-foot pressure as possible adjustments for waviness. The available controls and suitable settings depend on the machine, so consult its manual rather than applying a universal setting.
  • Try steaming or blocking. Threads discusses steaming or blocking as a possible way to help restore shape after sewing distortion. It is not guaranteed to work for every fiber or finish, so test carefully.
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When a ready-to-wear-style finish makes sense

A coverstitch is a useful choice when you want parallel rows on the outside and a looper finish on the underside, especially if you sew knits often. It is not a requirement: a well-tested twin-needle or narrow-zigzag hem can be made on a compatible household machine. Choose by the result you want and the equipment you have, rather than buying a specialized machine for a single hem.

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