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Make the classic “Go Jump in the Lake” sign by painting a reclaimed common board, adding painted stripes, transferring the words “go jump in the,” and gluing dimensional pressed-paper letters that spell “lake.” The original tutorial leaves the board size, hanger style, drying schedule, and weatherproof finish open, so you can scale and style the project for your space without treating any one measurement as mandatory.
What this reclaimed-board sign looks like
The exact project is a layered wood sign rather than a single painted inscription. A common board or scrap lumber forms the base. Two spray-paint colors create the board and letter colors, craft paint adds stripes, the smaller words are applied with a transfer and paste or craft paint, and separate pressed-paper letters provide the dimensional word “lake.” A hanger is attached to the back after the paint and glue work is complete.
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That combination gives you a rustic, dimensional look while keeping the construction simple: paint an existing board, decorate it, glue on letters, and hang it. The tutorial does not prescribe board dimensions, so choose a piece that gives the full phrase enough breathing room and fits the wall, porch, mudroom, or lake-house room where you plan to display it.
Materials and tools
Gather the following before you start. Items marked optional are design choices, not requirements of the original project.
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- Common board or scrap lumber: the reclaimed base used in Debbie’s Refresh Restyle tutorial. The board’s dimensions and wood species are not specified.
- Spray paint in two colors: use one color for the board’s base and one for the pressed-paper letters, or reverse the contrast.
- Craft paint: for the decorative stripes. Acrylic craft paint is a practical generic choice.
- Pressed-paper letters: enough to spell “lake.” The creator used letters she already had, so the exact style is flexible.
- Lettering transfer or stencil: for “go jump in the.” The tutorial allows a transfer with Chalkology Paste or craft paint.
- Hot glue gun and glue sticks: to secure the dimensional letters.
- Hanging hardware: the tutorial calls for a hanger but does not identify its type. Choose hardware appropriate for the board’s actual weight and your wall.
- Basic prep supplies: a drop cloth, disposable gloves, a clean rag, painter’s tape, and fine sandpaper if the reclaimed surface needs smoothing.
Paint colors are intentionally open. Coordinate them with your decor, use a high-contrast combination so the words read from across the room, or choose lake-inspired blues and neutrals. No particular brand or color is required.
Before painting: inspect and prepare the board
Check the reclaimed wood
Look over the board for loose splinters, protruding fasteners, grease, and dust. Remove anything that could catch on clothing or prevent paint from sitting flat. If the lumber came from a reuse store or another reclaimed source, clean it with a slightly damp rag and let the surface dry completely before painting.
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Decide which face and orientation to use
Place the board on a table and test whether a horizontal or vertical layout gives “Go Jump in the Lake” the clearest reading. Because the source provides no fixed dimensions, mock up the phrase with scrap paper or the actual letters. Leave a visible margin around the design rather than forcing the first or last letter against an edge.
Plan the lettering hierarchy
The transferred words are “go jump in the,” while the larger pressed-paper letters spell “lake.” Decide how you want those two treatments to relate before spraying anything. A common arrangement is the smaller phrase above the large word, but you can center the lines, curve the short phrase, or stack them if the board is narrow.
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Step-by-step: the exact board-and-pressed-letter method
- Set up a ventilated painting area. Protect the work surface with a drop cloth and follow the spray-paint label for ventilation, masking, and recoat instructions. Keep the board and loose letters separated so you can coat each without accidentally gluing or sticking them together.
- Prepare the board and letters. Remove dust from the board. Lightly smooth only the rough areas that would interfere with handling or lettering. Wipe away sanding residue. Arrange the pressed-paper letters in a safe area where overspray will not reach the wrong side.
- Spray-paint the board. Apply the first spray-paint color to the board in light, even passes rather than trying to create a heavy coat at once. Cover the face and any edges you expect to show. Follow the can’s stated drying and recoating directions; the tutorial does not give a universal drying time.
- Spray-paint the pressed-paper letters. Coat the letters in the second color, or use the same color as the board if you want a subtler tone-on-tone effect. Paint the visible faces and edges that will remain exposed after gluing. Let the paint dry according to its label before handling the letters.
- Mark the stripe layout. Use a ruler, straightedge, or strips of painter’s tape to establish parallel stripes. The tutorial specifies craft-painted stripes but does not prescribe their number, width, or location. Keep the stripes subordinate to the words so they do not compete with the lettering.
- Paint the stripes. Apply craft paint between the taped guides or with a steady brush. Remove tape carefully while the paint is still within the product’s recommended removal window, then allow the stripe layer to dry fully before transferring any words. If a stripe edge needs correction, touch it up with the base color.
- Position the transfer for “go jump in the.” Place the stencil or transfer where the short phrase will be readable and balanced with the larger word “lake.” Secure it so it cannot shift while you work. If you are using a transfer, burnish or press it using the product’s instructions.
- Apply the smaller words. Fill the transfer with Chalkology Paste or craft paint, using a thin, controlled layer. Lift the transfer carefully to reveal the phrase, then let the lettering dry before placing anything over it. A stencil brush or nearly dry brush helps keep paint from creeping under a stencil edge.
- Arrange the pressed-paper letters. Lay out L-A-K-E without glue first. Check the spacing, baseline, and distance from the transferred phrase and the board edges. Photograph the arrangement or mark light placement guides so the final letters return to the same positions.
- Glue “lake” in place. Warm the hot glue gun, apply glue to the back of one letter at a time, and press it onto the board at the planned location. Hold each letter steady until the glue grabs. Keep glue strings off the painted face and remove any stray strings only after they cool enough to handle safely.
- Attach the hanger. Install a picture-hanging device suited to the board’s weight and the wall surface. The original instructions simply say to add a hanger to the back; they do not specify a sawtooth hanger, wire, D-rings, or another model. Position the hardware so the sign hangs level, and test the attachment before putting the sign on the wall.
- Inspect the finished piece. Look for transfer smears, loose corners, paint pulled up by tape, or letters that rock when touched. Make small touch-ups with the matching paint and allow every repair to dry before hanging.
Lettering choices and layout decisions
Use a transfer or stencil for the short phrase
A transfer gives you a consistent phrase without requiring freehand lettering. A stencil is reusable and lets you adjust the spacing one word at a time. In either case, practice on scrap material if you are unsure how much paste or paint to load. Excess product is the main cause of soft edges and filled-in counters on small letters.
Make “lake” dimensional
Pressed-paper letters add a raised layer and visual emphasis. Because they are separate pieces, you can shift the spacing until the word feels centered. Paint all the letters before gluing so you do not have to mask around them on the finished board. If your letters have different thicknesses or fonts, place the tallest or widest character first and balance the remaining gaps around it.
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Coordinate stripes with the words
Stripes can run behind the lettering, stop before the lettering area, or frame the phrase. High-contrast stripes make the board more graphic; low-contrast stripes keep attention on the dimensional letters. The tutorial leaves these choices to the maker, so treat the stripe pattern as a styling decision rather than a fixed specification.
Common problems and practical fixes
- Transfer edges look fuzzy: use less paste or paint, hold the stencil firmly, and lift it vertically instead of dragging it across the wet surface. Correct tiny flaws after drying with a fine brush and the base color.
- Painter’s tape pulls up the base coat: the base may not have cured sufficiently, or the tape may be too aggressive. Press tape onto fabric once to reduce tack, remove it slowly, and follow the paint label’s recoat guidance.
- Stripes are uneven: mark both ends of each stripe with a straightedge before painting. If the board is irregular, prioritize a visually consistent pattern over forcing every stripe to the exact same width.
- The short phrase and “lake” do not align: dry-arrange all lettering before applying the transfer. If necessary, center the large word first and fit the smaller line to it rather than centering each line independently.
- Pressed-paper letters lift: remove dust from both surfaces, use enough hot glue to contact the board, and press the letter flat while the glue sets. Very heavy letters may need a different adhesive or mechanical support; the original tutorial only identifies hot glue.
- Spray paint feels tacky: stop handling the piece and follow the can’s drying directions. Temperature, humidity, coat thickness, and ventilation affect drying, so there is no single reliable schedule for every workspace.
- The sign hangs crooked: reposition or re-level the hanger before loading the sign onto the wall fastener. Check that the hardware is centered relative to the board, not merely centered relative to the lettering.
Alternative ways to make a “Go Jump in the Lake” sign
If reclaimed lumber or dimensional paper letters are not right for your room, several separate DIY projects use different substrates and lettering methods. They are variations, not substitutions for the exact board tutorial.
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| Variation | Substrate | Lettering method | Construction and finish | Best fit |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Canvas design credited to Uncommon Designs | Canvas | Vinyl lettering or premade stickers; paint over the letters and remove them | Chalk paint, acrylic craft paint, 150-grit sandpaper, and stain diluted with water create a distressed surface | A soft, weathered wall-art look without a wood board |
| Lightweight faux-wood sign from The Happy Housie | Half-inch foam sheet | Printed lettering transferred with carbon paper | Foam tools carve plank-like grooves; stain wipes and two acrylic colors imitate wood | Readers who specifically want a lightweight sign |
| Reused cabinet-door project from Our Southern Home | Thrifted cabinet door | Transfer with chalk, pencil, or oil pastel, then fill with craft paint | Painted surface followed by sealer in that separate project | Upcycling a door with an already-finished face |
| Framed panel from My Porch Prints | Flat panel inside a frame made from 1×1 boards | Printed lettering transferred with charcoal or pencil, then painted | Requires cutting, fasteners, paint, and picture-hanging hardware | A more architectural, framed presentation |
| Assembled picket sign from 2 Bees in a Pod | Grade stakes or pickets joined with paint stirrers or shims | Painted lettering on an assembled rustic surface | Paint, glue, wax, and sandpaper produce a distressed picket style | A deliberately rustic, multi-piece sign |
Choose among these approaches by substrate weight, lettering confidence, and construction effort. Foam is explicitly presented as lightweight in its tutorial, while the framed-panel and picket versions require more assembly than painting and gluing an existing board. None of these descriptions establishes that one substrate or finish is more weather-resistant than another.
How the options compare before you start
- Fastest construction: the reclaimed board method, because the base already exists and the main assembly is painting plus gluing.
- Most dimensional: the pressed-paper-letter method, which raises “lake” from the board.
- Most flexible lettering: a transfer or stencil, since you can change the type style and spacing without cutting a new board.
- Lightest substrate: the half-inch foam variation, according to its project description.
- Most carpentry: the framed panel and joined-picket designs, which add cutting, fastening, or structural assembly.
- Most distressed appearance: the canvas and picket variations, which explicitly use sanding, stain, wax, or layered paint for a worn look.
Display, sealing, and outdoor expectations
The exact reclaimed-board instructions do not identify an exterior-rated paint system, a sealer, or any weather testing. Treat the finished sign as decorative and do not promise that it is weatherproof. If you plan to place it near a door, on a covered porch, or in another area exposed to moisture, read every paint, adhesive, and hardware label and understand that the tutorial itself does not establish outdoor performance.
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A sealer appears in the separate cabinet-door project, but that does not make sealing a required step for the reclaimed-board sign. Adding a coating can also change the sheen and the appearance of the stripes or dimensional letters, so test compatibility on a painted scrap before coating the finished piece.
Quick Recap
Final checklist
- Board is clean, stable, and comfortable to handle.
- Base color covers the visible board and edges.
- Pressed-paper letters are painted and fully dry before gluing.
- Stripe guides are straight enough for the chosen rustic style.
- “Go jump in the lake” reads in the intended order from normal viewing distance.
- Transfer or stencil edges are clean and touch-ups are dry.
- Hot-glued letters are firmly seated with no loose corners.
- Hanging hardware matches the board’s weight and is attached securely.
- Display location does not assume weather resistance that has not been established.
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