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How to Make Furniture Look Expensive: 12 Easy Upgrades

Give an ordinary table, cabinet, chair, or sideboard a more expensive-looking finish with 12 upgrades ordered from easy cosmetic changes to advanced structural projects.

By ThatPainter Team 18 October 2026
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You can make an ordinary cabinet, table, chair, or sideboard look considerably more expensive by improving its finish, proportions, hardware, texture, and styling—not by pretending it is made from a luxury material. Start with preparation and a restrained color or hardware change, then move to trim, upholstery, or structural work only when the piece can safely support it. These 12 upgrades are arranged from quick, reversible treatments to projects that require cutting, upholstery skills, or careful stability checks.

Choose the upgrade by effort, surface, and risk

“Expensive-looking” is a visual goal, not a guarantee of higher resale value, longer life, or a successful imitation of natural stone or fine wood. The best choice depends on the existing substrate, finish, function, and how permanent you want the change to be.

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Upgrade Best surfaces Minimum supplies Effort and reversibility Structural change?
Solid-color repaint Sound wood, veneer, metal, or previously painted furniture compatible with the chosen coating Cleaner, sandpaper as appropriate, filler, primer or undercoat, paint, brushes or sprayer Moderate preparation; generally reversible only by refinishing No
Two-tone paint Tables, carts, cabinets, shelves, and pieces with a clear frame or interior Two compatible paints, painter’s tape, preparation supplies Moderate; repaintable No
Painted or “dipped” legs Chair, table, stool, and console legs Measuring tool, tape, primer and paint suited to the surface Low to moderate; repaintable No
New knobs or pulls Cabinets, dressers, sideboards, and drawers Screwdriver, measurements, replacement hardware Low; usually easy to reverse No
New legs Low cabinets and side tables with a sound base Rated legs, mounting plates or fasteners appropriate to the furniture, drill and measuring tools Moderate; requires stability checks Yes, mounting points and height change
Applied trim or moulding Flat drawer fronts, doors, aprons, and plain edges Trim, measuring and cutting tools, adhesive or fasteners suited to the substrate Moderate; removal can damage the finish Usually no, but adds weight and clearance issues
Paper, wallpaper, or vinyl panel Drawer fronts, shelf backs, trays, and recessed panels Compatible adhesive or film, smoothing tool, sharp blade, sealer where specified Low to moderate; often replaceable No
Cane-webbing insert Cabinet or door panels that can safely accept an opening Cane webbing, drill, jigsaw, staple gun, safety glasses Advanced; difficult to reverse cleanly Yes, and structural integrity must be preserved
Reupholstery or fitted cover Chair seats, backs, benches, and upholstered panels Fabric, scissors, staple gun and upholstery tools, or a fitted cover Cover: low and removable; reupholstery: moderate to advanced No, unless foam or frame is altered
Faux finish or metallic detail Flat tops, fronts, edges, and selected accents Compatible base coating, specialty paint, brushes or spray equipment, sample board Moderate; repaintable No
Stencil or geometric pattern Flat tabletops, drawer fronts, sides, and backs Stencil or painter’s tape, compatible paint, stencil brush or roller Low to moderate; repaintable No
Simplify and style Any stable, functional piece Screwdriver only if removing nonessential items; a few display objects Low and highly reversible Only if a removed part was structural—do not remove those

The cited how-to pages provide examples and instructions, not controlled comparisons of cost, durability, project time, or resale outcomes. Choose based on the visual effect and the condition of your furniture rather than an assumed return.

Prepare the furniture before changing its appearance

A polished result usually comes from preparation more than from an expensive coating. Bunnings recommends cleaning, sanding as appropriate, repairing holes or dents with filler, removing dust, and selecting an undercoat that suits both the furniture and the paint. Start by identifying whether you have solid wood, veneer, laminate, metal, or an existing painted or varnished layer. A finish that works on one substrate may fail to bond to another.

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  1. Inspect the piece. Tighten loose joints, identify water damage, and check that doors and drawers operate before adding material.
  2. Clean thoroughly. Remove grease, polish, and dust so paint, adhesive, or trim is not bonding to dirt.
  3. Repair only what is cosmetic. Fill small holes and dents, then allow the filler to harden and sand it smooth. Do not use filler to compensate for a loose or damaged structural joint.
  4. Prepare the existing coating. Scuff-sand when the product instructions call for it, remove loose finish, and vacuum or wipe away residue. Avoid aggressive sanding that cuts through a thin veneer.
  5. Prime or undercoat when required. Match the primer to the substrate and topcoat. Follow the paint label for compatible surfaces, number of coats, drying time, and recoat time.
  6. Test first. Try the color, adhesive, faux finish, or sealer on a hidden area or spare sample. This catches adhesion, color, and sheen problems before they cover the visible surfaces.

For spray paint, Krylon advises selecting a formulation made for the material, working in a well-ventilated area, and wearing a painting mask. Its furniture guidance is available at Krylon’s furniture spray-paint guide.

1. Repaint the piece in a considered solid color

A single well-chosen color can make the silhouette, legs, doors, and hardware look intentional. Deep green, warm black, muted blue, chalky white, or a soft neutral can each create a different impression, but the color should relate to the room and the furniture’s proportions rather than chase a trend blindly.

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How to do it

  1. Remove knobs, pulls, shelves, and other parts that can be painted separately.
  2. Clean, repair, sand, and prime according to the substrate and paint label.
  3. Apply thin, even coats, allowing the stated drying and recoating time between them.
  4. Reinstall hardware only when the finish is dry enough for handling.

Use the preparation sequence described by Bunnings and the material-specific advice from Dulux. This is a medium-effort cosmetic change with no structural alteration, but it is not instantly reversible.

2. Paint the frame and surface in two tones

Two tones add depth without requiring a complicated pattern. Paint a tabletop one color and its legs another, or use a contrasting color on the back of a bookcase, inside a cabinet, or on bar-cart shelves. The contrast works best when one color clearly dominates and the second is used deliberately.

Execution details

Complete the lighter or interior color first, let it dry as directed, then mask the boundary with quality painter’s tape. Press the tape edge down, apply the second color in controlled coats, and remove the tape according to the paint maker’s instructions. Dulux shows two-tone table and contrasting shelf treatments in its furniture painting examples and easy furniture hacks.

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3. Paint or “dip” the legs

If the whole piece is sound but visually flat, a band of color on the lower portion of each leg supplies a small, graphic intervention. It suits dining chairs, stools, side tables, consoles, and slim cabinets.

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Keep the line consistent

  1. Measure the same height from the floor on every leg.
  2. Mark the line lightly and apply painter’s tape around each leg.
  3. Protect the unpainted area, prime if required, and brush on the contrasting color.
  4. Remove tape carefully and check that all legs meet the floor evenly.

Dulux’s leg-painting guidance illustrates the treatment. Because only a small area changes, this is relatively easy to repaint if the contrast feels too strong.

4. Replace dated knobs and pulls

Hardware is one of the fastest ways to make a cabinet, dresser, or sideboard feel intentional. A substantial pull, a coordinated knob, or a simple bar can change the visual scale of a plain front without sanding or repainting the case.

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  • Measure the center-to-center distance between existing screw holes, not the outside length of the pull.
  • Check screw length, head style, backplate size, and whether the new hardware will clear adjacent doors or drawers.
  • Keep the original hardware in a labeled bag if you may want to reverse the change.

Bunnings calls new hardware an easy, inexpensive update in its furniture-upcycling guide. Apartment Therapy also recommends replacing or removing uninspiring pulls in its furniture ideas article.

5. Raise a low piece on new legs

Changing the legs can correct an awkwardly low profile and make a cabinet or side table read as a more deliberate piece. This is a styling-and-engineering project, not simply a decorative swap.

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Check fit and load first

  • Confirm that the base has a sound area for mounting plates or fasteners.
  • Measure the footprint, total height, door swing, and clearance from the floor.
  • Use legs rated for the expected load, including the furniture and anything stored in it.
  • Install all legs squarely, then test for rocking before loading the piece.

Furniture makeover examples show the visual effect of new legs, but they do not establish a universal mounting method or a universal load rating. If the base is thin, damaged, or unsupported, choose hardware, reinforcement, or professional help appropriate to that specific construction.

6. Add trim or moulding to plain fronts

Simple applied trim can give a flat drawer front, door, apron, or edge a sense of proportion and shadow. A narrow frame around an inset panel often looks more controlled than an elaborate ornament applied everywhere.

Plan around moving parts

  1. Measure each front separately; older furniture is not always perfectly square.
  2. Dry-fit the pieces and mark corners before cutting or attaching anything.
  3. Keep trim clear of hinges, handles, drawer gaps, and the path of moving parts.
  4. Use an adhesive or fastener that suits the trim and substrate, and allow it to cure before painting.

Decorative moulding is presented as a way to add a finished look in Lowe’s home-decor guidance. The page does not prescribe one furniture-specific attachment method, so test your chosen method on an inconspicuous area.

7. Cover one panel with wallpaper, paper, or vinyl

A patterned drawer front, shelf back, or recessed tray can supply the visual richness of a larger makeover while using less material. This works especially well when the case is already a good color and only one surface feels dull.

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Apply a controlled panel

Cut the material slightly oversize, position it from one edge, and smooth gradually to prevent bubbles. Trim the excess with a sharp blade after adhesion. Use a surface-compatible adhesive or self-adhesive film, and test both adhesion and removability on a hidden spot. Dulux demonstrates wallpaper on bar-cart trays in its micro-makeovers, while Bunnings includes paper and decorative-surface ideas in its upcycling guide. Seal only when the product directions call for it; an incompatible sealer can cloud or damage the pattern.

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8. Install a cane-webbing insert

Cane adds a woven texture and a light, crafted appearance to cabinet doors or panels, but cutting an opening makes this an advanced upgrade. It is unsuitable for a beginner who has not verified how the panel contributes to the furniture’s strength.

Protect the frame

  1. Remove the door or panel and identify rails, stiles, hinges, and any load-bearing section.
  2. Mark an opening that leaves adequate material around the perimeter.
  3. Drill starter holes and cut the opening with a jigsaw while wearing safety glasses.
  4. Fit and tension the cane webbing, then secure it with a staple gun or the method appropriate to the design.
  5. Reattach the panel and verify that it remains square and operates without binding.

The Hallmark Channel’s cane furniture refresh specifies cane webbing, a drill, jigsaw, staple gun, and safety glasses, and emphasizes retaining structural integrity. Never cut a load-bearing or structurally important section merely to create a decorative opening.

9. Reupholster a chair or use a fitted cover

Fabric changes the tactile impression of a chair more dramatically than paint alone. Reupholstery lets you alter fabric, pattern alignment, contrast welting, or tufting; a fitted dining-chair cover gives a removable, lower-commitment alternative.

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Choose the level of work

  • Cover: Select a cover that fits the chair’s dimensions and keeps seams and ties clear of moving parts. It is the most reversible option.
  • Seat-only reupholstery: Remove the seat, photograph the existing layers, cut new fabric with enough allowance to wrap underneath, and staple evenly while keeping the pattern aligned.
  • Full upholstery: Treat the chair back, welting, foam, and corners as a larger project; seek specialist help if the frame or springs are damaged.

Apartment Therapy discusses upholstery details in its furniture ideas article, and Lowe’s includes dining-chair guidance in its home-decor ideas. Those sources do not compare fabrics for wear or stain resistance, so select cloth according to the chair’s actual use.

10. Use a restrained faux finish or metallic accent

A faux-marble effect, a gilded edge, or a controlled specialty-paint finish can change a basic surface’s character. The expensive-looking result usually comes from restraint: one top, edge, or detail is more convincing than a busy treatment on every face.

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Practice on cardboard or a hidden section first. Check how the base color, specialty coating, brush marks, and final sheen interact under the room’s lighting. Apartment Therapy offers faux-finish and metallic examples, while Krylon’s spray-paint guidance covers material compatibility and safe spraying. These examples do not establish that a faux finish will look like natural premium material at close range, so describe it as an intentional decorative effect.

11. Add a crisp stencil or geometric pattern

Graphic detail can make a plain surface look designed rather than mass-produced. Match the pattern scale to the furniture: a large cabinet can carry a larger repeat, while a small bedside table usually needs a quieter motif.

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Prevent fuzzy edges

  1. Clean and prepare the base coat fully.
  2. Position the stencil or lay out painter’s tape with measured spacing.
  3. Use a small amount of paint on a stencil brush or roller, removing excess before touching the surface.
  4. Lift the stencil straight up, or remove tape carefully, and allow the pattern to dry before adding another section.

Krylon describes stencil and tape approaches in its furniture spray-paint guide; Apartment Therapy includes sleek geometric patterns among its visual furniture treatments.

12. Simplify the piece and style it deliberately

Sometimes the furniture looks cheap because too many visual elements compete: unnecessary appliqués, oversized pulls, cluttered shelves, or a top covered with unrelated objects. Remove only parts that are clearly nonfunctional and nonstructural, then create a small, balanced display.

Use a restrained vignette

  • Keep the most useful surface visible rather than covering it edge to edge.
  • Combine a few objects with different heights and textures.
  • Repeat one color or material so the arrangement feels connected to the room.
  • Leave breathing room around the display and the furniture’s hardware.

Apartment Therapy recommends reducing visual bulk and using a considered tabletop vignette in its furniture ideas article. This is a styling judgment, not a measured improvement in value or durability. If an element braces the frame, supports a shelf, or keeps a door aligned, leave it in place.

How to choose a sensible sequence

Begin with the least permanent intervention that could solve the problem. Hardware or styling may be enough when the finish is sound. Use paint when the surface is tired but structurally healthy. Add paper, trim, or a pattern when one panel needs interest. Reserve new legs and cane inserts for pieces whose construction can be measured, reinforced, and tested safely.

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  1. Stabilize: Repair loose joints and confirm the piece is safe to use.
  2. Prepare: Clean, fill, sand as appropriate, remove dust, and prime when required.
  3. Make one major visual change: Choose paint, hardware, upholstery, or a panel treatment rather than layering every idea at once.
  4. Add a small supporting detail: A contrasting interior, restrained stencil, or new pull can support the main treatment.
  5. Check function: Open every drawer, test every door, confirm the piece is level, and inspect edges for lifting or snagging.

Interior stylist Laurie Davidson described the appeal of small makeovers to Ideal Home: “The beauty of these projects is that if it goes wrong, it hasn’t cost you a fortune, and you have the opportunity to turn a low-key item into something more luxe-looking.” That is an opinion about the creative opportunity, not a promise of a measured value increase; read the full context at Ideal Home.

Product prices and availability are accurate as of the date/time indicated and are subject to change. Any price and availability information displayed on Amazon at the time of purchase will apply.

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