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How to Make Reversible DIY Wood Wall Art With Hand-Lettered Quotes

Turn a picture frame into reversible quote art with a thin plywood insert. This guide covers measuring, cutting, sanding, vinyl and no-machine lettering, humidity precautions, assembly and troubleshooting.

By ThatPainter Team 18 October 2026
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Make double-sided wood wall art by replacing a picture frame’s glass and mat board with a thin plywood panel. Decorate one face with each quote, reinstall the backing, and flip the panel whenever you want a different message.

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The method works with a Cricut Maker or Cricut Explore Air, but a cutting machine is optional. You can hand-cut adhesive vinyl or transfer a printed design with pencil instead.

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How the reversible frame design works

A standard picture frame already provides the outer structure, hanging hardware and backing. For this project, remove the glass and mat board and substitute a thin plywood panel cut to the frame’s interior opening. Because both faces remain accessible before assembly, each side can carry a different quote.

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The featured tutorial from A Piece of Rainbow, updated February 13, 2022, uses a frame measuring approximately 11 by 14 inches on the outside and a 1/4-inch-thick plywood panel. Those are that project’s specifications, not universal requirements. Your panel must match the actual rabbet or inner ledge of your frame, and the thickness must fit without forcing the backing.

Materials and tools

Item Purpose Notes
Picture frame Holds and displays the panel A thrift-store frame can work if it is structurally sound and deep enough for the plywood and backing.
Thin plywood Reversible art surface The featured project uses a small 1/4-inch piece. Buy enough to trace the frame opening.
Acrylic paint or stain Background color The tutorial paints one face white with acrylic paint; finishing both faces is optional.
Adhesive craft vinyl Lettering or graphics Choose a vinyl intended for interior craft applications unless the manufacturer specifies otherwise.
Transfer tape Moves cut vinyl from its liner to the wood Keep the backing paper; the tutorial says the tape can be reused for several transfers.
Light-grip cutting mat Holds vinyl during machine cutting Use this only for the machine-cut method.
Weeding tool Removes unwanted vinyl A fine-point tool helps with counters and small letter tips.
Cricut Maker or Cricut Explore Air Cuts an uploaded design Optional convenience, not a requirement.
Utility knife, jigsaw or suitable saw, sandpaper Cuts and smooths plywood Use the saw appropriate to your shop setup and the panel size.
Clear acrylic sealer Adds a protective film to the unpainted side The tutorial recommends it for humid rooms, such as a bathroom with showers.

Measure the frame before cutting plywood

Do not cut from the frame’s advertised outside dimensions. Open the frame, remove the glass and mat board, and use one of them as a physical tracing template. Trace the shape that actually sits inside the frame, then check the measurement in more than one direction. Frames can be slightly out of square, and a panel that is even a little oversized may not seat properly.

  • Confirm the inner width and height at several points.
  • Check the frame’s rabbet depth so the plywood and original backing can occupy the same space as the glass and mat.
  • Mark which face will be displayed first before painting or applying lettering.
  • Dry-fit the unpainted panel before decorating either side.

The 11-by-14-inch outside frame and 1/4-inch plywood in the tutorial are useful starting references when shopping, but your frame’s interior measurement controls every cut.

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Prepare and finish the panel

  1. Disassemble the frame. Remove the backing, glass and mat board carefully. Keep the glass and mat in a safe place until the project is complete; they are useful tracing templates and can be returned to the frame if you change your mind.
  2. Trace the interior shape. Place the glass or mat on the plywood and mark the panel outline. If the two pieces are different sizes, trace the one that fits the frame opening rather than assuming the mat is the correct insert.
  3. Cut the plywood. Support the sheet fully while cutting. Make a controlled cut just outside the line, then refine the edge so you do not remove too much material.
  4. Sand every cut edge. Smooth splinters and sharp corners, then test the panel in the frame again. Sanding is especially important because the panel will be handled whenever you flip it.
  5. Paint or stain the faces. The source project paints one face white with acrylic paint. Let the coating dry completely before applying vinyl or turning the panel over.
  6. Seal for humid indoor use when needed. If the unpainted face will be in a humid room, apply a clear acrylic sealer according to its label. Provide suitable ventilation and observe the product’s curing instructions.

The sealing advice is a humidity precaution, not a tested outdoor or weatherproof rating. Neither the frame-and-panel tutorial nor the related sign tutorial establishes a service life, waterproofing performance or suitability for exterior exposure.

Choose a lettering method

Method Equipment Lettering result Time and cost Best fit
Machine-cut adhesive vinyl Cutting machine, light-grip mat, vinyl, transfer tape and weeding tool Consistent, crisp shapes when the vinyl is pressed down well The source describes it as fast and clean-looking; exact costs are not stated and depend on equipment and supplies already owned. Detailed fonts, repeated projects or anyone who wants predictable letter shapes
Hand-cut adhesive vinyl Vinyl, printed or hand-drawn pattern, pencil, ruler and X-Acto knife Can match the pattern, with more variation from hand cutting Equipment cost is lower if you already have a knife; cutting time increases with detail. Exact costs are not stated. One-off signs and makers comfortable with careful knife work
Printed design transfer Printer, paper and pencil; paint or marker for the final lettering Retains the proportions of the printed template while allowing a hand-painted finish No cutting-machine cost; the related tutorial does not state a total project cost. People who want to avoid both a cutting machine and adhesive vinyl

The original tutorial explicitly presents tracing and X-Acto cutting as alternatives to a machine. A related tutorial by Angela Marie Made describes transferring a printed design with pencil and treats a cutting machine as an optional way to make a stencil. These are different lettering workflows, but they solve the same equipment problem.

Apply machine-cut vinyl lettering

  1. Prepare the artwork. Create or obtain an SVG quote design sized for the usable face of the panel. Leave a margin so the frame does not cover the first or last letters.
  2. Upload it to the design software. In Cricut Design Space, upload the SVG, set the design size and arrange the quote as it should appear on the wood. Check spelling and punctuation before cutting.
  3. Load the vinyl. Place adhesive vinyl on the light-grip mat with its liner against the mat, smooth out bubbles and load the mat into the machine.
  4. Cut the design. Select the material setting recommended for your vinyl and run the cut. Keep the surrounding sheet intact until you have confirmed the lettering cut correctly.
  5. Weed the excess. Remove the vinyl that is not part of the quote, including centers of letters such as A, O and R. Work slowly around thin strokes and small interior pieces.
  6. Cover with transfer tape. Lay transfer tape over the weeded design and press firmly across the entire surface. The adhesive vinyl must release from its liner and adhere to the tape.
  7. Position without committing. Hold the taped design over the wood and check its baseline, margins and alignment. Once vinyl touches the panel, repositioning can distort small letters, so take this check seriously.
  8. Burnish onto the panel. Press the design down with a scraper, working from the center toward the edges. Pay extra attention to small “tips” on letters; the tutorial notes that these may need additional pressure to release cleanly.
  9. Peel the tape away. Pull the transfer tape back slowly at a low angle. If a letter lifts, lay the tape back down, press that area again and continue.
  10. Save the liner and tape. Return the transfer tape to its backing paper if it remains clean. The source says it can be reused for several transfers.

Hand-cut vinyl without a cutting machine

Print the quote at the intended size or draw it on paper, then place the pattern over the adhesive vinyl. Trace the outlines and cut the letters with an X-Acto knife on a protected cutting surface. Weed the unwanted vinyl, cover the remaining design with transfer tape and follow the same positioning, scraper and peel steps used for machine-cut lettering.

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This approach avoids buying a machine but demands more concentration around curves, counters and narrow strokes. Use a fresh blade, keep both hands out of the blade path and never cut directly on a finished table.

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Transfer a printed quote with pencil

For a no-vinyl option, use the pencil-transfer method described by Angela Marie Made. Print the quote at the required size, shade or mark the back of the printed lettering as directed by the transfer approach, position the sheet on the wood and trace the letter lines so the design transfers to the surface. Remove the paper and follow the transferred guide with paint, a marker or another medium suited to the prepared panel.

Test the transfer on scrap plywood first. A printed template gives you control over spacing and letter proportions, while the final hand-applied lines will show the maker’s touch rather than the uniform edge of cut vinyl.

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Decorate the second face

Let the first face dry and protect it from scratches before turning the panel over. Repeat the chosen lettering process on the opposite side with a quote that complements the first. Mark the panel’s top edge temporarily if orientation matters; otherwise, a design can appear upside down when you flip it inside the frame.

Keep the two designs within the same safe area. If one quote uses a large centered layout and the other uses narrow lines near the edge, verify that the frame’s lip will not hide important words on either side.

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Reassemble the reversible wall art

  1. Place the completed plywood panel into the frame opening with the preferred quote facing forward.
  2. Reinstall the original frame backing so it holds the panel firmly without bowing it.
  3. Check that the backing tabs, clips or brads are fully engaged and that nothing presses into the lettering.
  4. Lift the frame by its sides and inspect the front before hanging it.
  5. To change the message, remove the frame from the wall, open the backing, turn the panel over and restore the backing.

The completed panel replaces the frame’s glass and mat board; those pieces are not installed behind the plywood in the finished version described by the tutorial.

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Humidity, finish and durability limits

Use the clear acrylic sealer recommendation only for the stated use case: protecting an unpainted face in a humid indoor environment such as a bathroom with showers. Follow the sealer label for surface preparation, ventilation, drying time and cleanup. A spray coat mentioned in a separate two-sided hanging-sign tutorial does not prove that every clear finish is compatible with every paint, vinyl or location.

Do not advertise this frame project as outdoor-safe or weatherproof. The available instructions provide no tested exposure period, moisture rating or long-term durability data. For a covered porch or other damp location, evaluate the frame, plywood, lettering medium and finish as a complete system and follow the finish manufacturer’s restrictions.

Troubleshooting common problems

  • The panel will not fit: Recheck the interior opening and rabbet depth. Sand only the high edge, removing small amounts evenly, and test-fit often.
  • Vinyl stays on the liner: Burnish the transfer tape more firmly, especially over thin strokes and letter tips, then peel the liner back slowly.
  • Letters lift with the transfer tape: Lower the tape again, press the loose area with a scraper and pull the tape back at a shallower angle.
  • Edges look fuzzy or uneven: Smooth the plywood before decorating and avoid applying vinyl over dust, loose fibers or uncured paint.
  • The quote is crooked: Before pressing, use the panel edges and a ruler as alignment references. Once adhesive vinyl is fully burnished, removal may damage the design or finish.
  • The backing bows the panel: Confirm that the plywood thickness matches the frame cavity. Do not force the clips; use a thinner panel or a deeper frame.
  • The finish remains tacky: Stop handling the panel and allow the product to cure for the full label-specified period. Humidity and thick coats can extend drying.

Design choices that make flipping practical

  • Pair two seasonal messages so one side can remain stored while the other is displayed.
  • Use the same background color on both faces for a coordinated look, or deliberately contrast a painted face with natural plywood.
  • Reserve a border around each quote so the frame’s lip does not cover ascenders, descenders or punctuation.
  • Keep one face simpler if the second quote has many lines; visual balance matters when the panel is turned.
  • Photograph the finished panel before inserting it so you have a reference for orientation and placement.

What this project is not

A separate tutorial by A Girl and a Kiwi describes a two-sided hanging sign made by cutting and gluing wood boards and applying a clear spray coat. That is a different construction: it does not use a picture frame, removable glass and mat board, or a reversible plywood insert. Do not substitute its board-building steps for the frame-and-panel method here.

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Buying decisions and source disclosure

The machine is the optional expense. If you already own one, adhesive vinyl, transfer tape, a light-grip mat and a weeding tool make the lettering workflow quick. If you do not, hand-cut vinyl or a pencil-transferred print avoids that purchase. A thrifted frame and locally sourced plywood can also reduce material spending, but exact project costs are not stated in the tutorials and vary by frame, sheet size and supplies on hand.

The original tutorial says its author received a Cricut Maker and related tools as free gifts for an honest review and that some helpful-resource links are affiliate links. Treat the machine recommendation as the author’s documented project experience, not as an independent durability test or a requirement for making the art.

Final build checklist

  • The frame’s interior opening was measured rather than inferred from its outside size.
  • The plywood is thin enough to fit with the original backing and has sanded edges.
  • Paint or stain is fully dry before lettering begins.
  • Both quotes are aligned, readable and clear of the frame lip.
  • Vinyl is firmly burnished, or pencil-transfer lines are fully covered by the chosen lettering medium.
  • The unpainted face has clear acrylic sealer if the finished piece will be in a humid indoor room.
  • The panel and backing sit securely, and the frame can be flipped without rubbing the artwork.

With those checks complete, the picture frame becomes a compact two-message display: one quote faces out, the other remains protected inside until you turn the panel around.

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