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One piece of black-and-white striped fabric can produce two distinctly different accent pillows. Use the same 16.5-inch paper square, cut four matching triangles for each front, and change only the pattern’s orientation: parallel to the stripes creates a concentric-square effect, while perpendicular placement centers a stripe for a different geometric composition. The example finishes at about 14 inches square with an envelope back.
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What changes between the two pillow designs
The construction is identical for both covers. The design changes come from two decisions made before cutting:
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One free scan finds every outdated or missing driver and matches the right update for your exact hardware.Free scan · exact hardware match| Design | Pattern orientation | Stripe-placement goal | Visual result |
|---|---|---|---|
| Concentric-square look | Long side of the square parallel to the fabric stripes | Place the seam at the edge of a black stripe; the example shifts the pattern 5/8 inch into the white stripe | Nested, square-like framing across the pillow front |
| Centered-stripe look | Long side of the square perpendicular to the fabric stripes | Center the paper pattern on a stripe | A centered stripe composition with a different geometric balance |
Neither arrangement is objectively better. The original tutorial’s author, Kristi, wrote that she thought she preferred the pillow on the right; that is a personal design choice, not a performance recommendation.
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Finished size, pattern size and the measurement rule
The project is intended to make a pillow cover about 14 inches square. To include seam allowance, make a paper pattern 16.5 inches square. The 16.5-inch dimension belongs to this project as a complete set of instructions; do not combine it with measurements from another pillow-cover tutorial.
Measurements vary because each pattern assumes a particular insert, seam allowance and construction method. For example, an anderson + grant beginners guide published in March 2026 uses a front that is one inch larger than the insert, back panels cut to the front width by half the front height plus four inches, and a 1/2-inch seam allowance. Those are that guide’s dimensions, not replacement measurements for this 14-inch example.
Materials and tools
Gather the following before cutting. Optional means you can substitute a tool you already own.
- Black-and-white striped home-decor fabric
- Coordinating thread
- Paper for a 16.5-inch square pattern; the original maker taped four printer sheets together
- Fabric scissors or a rotary cutter, mat and ruler
- Tape measure, acrylic ruler and chalk pencil or another removable marking tool
- Pins or sewing clips
- Sewing machine
- Iron and ironing surface
- A pillow form sized for the finished cover
A strong thread and upholstery-weight fabric can be useful for heavier home-decor projects, but they are not mandatory specifications for this smaller cover. The University of Nebraska–Lincoln Extension identifies measuring, cutting, seam-allowance stitching, backstitching, matching seams, pressing seams open, pivoting and trimming as the relevant pillow-making skills.
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Make the four-triangle paper pattern
- Tape four printer sheets together into one large sheet.
- Measure and cut a square measuring 16.5 inches on every side.
- Fold the square diagonally and cut along the fold to divide it into two triangles.
- Repeat the folding and cutting operation on the resulting sections so you have four triangular sections.
Keep the triangles together as a set. Each pillow front uses four matching pieces, so preserving the paper edges and marking the stripe direction on the pattern will make the layout easier to repeat.
Prepare the fabric and plan the stripe placement
Find the stripe direction
Lay the fabric flat and identify the lengthwise direction of the stripes. Place the paper square on the fabric before cutting and mark an arrow showing the stripes’ direction. The arrow prevents accidentally rotating one triangle after you have established the intended design.
Use a test layout first
Arrange the four paper triangles on the fabric without cutting. Check where the stripe will meet each future seam. A few minutes of shifting paper can prevent an attractive stripe from disappearing into a seam allowance.
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Account for the 5/8-inch shift in the concentric design
For the concentric-square version, the original maker wanted the outside black stripe. She placed the long side of the pattern parallel to the stripes, then shifted the pattern 5/8 inch into the white stripe so the eventual stitching line would land at the edge of the black stripe. Mark this placement on the paper or fabric before cutting; it is a deliberate design offset, not a general seam allowance.
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Cut and sew the concentric-square front
- Place the 16.5-inch pattern with its long side parallel to the stripes.
- Shift it 5/8 inch into the white stripe so the seam position corresponds with the edge of the desired black stripe.
- Cut four matching triangular pieces. Keep each piece oriented and mark the stripe direction if necessary.
- Pair two triangles at a time, placing right sides together. Pin or clip along the seam.
- Stitch the two pairs, then press each seam open and flat with the iron.
- Place the two sewn halves together. Match the stripes across the center seam before stitching.
- Sew the center seam, backstitching at the beginning and end, then press it open.
Stripe matching matters more than speed. If the lines do not meet at the first pinned points, adjust the pieces before sewing the full seam. Pressing after each seam keeps the assembled front flat and makes the final alignment easier to judge.
Cut and sew the centered-stripe front
- Turn the paper pattern so its long side is perpendicular to the fabric stripes.
- Center the pattern on a stripe. Use a ruler or chalk marks to confirm that the stripe runs through the intended center rather than slightly to one side.
- Cut four matching triangles while keeping the same orientation for every piece.
- Sew the triangles into two pairs, matching the stripes as you pin.
- Press both pair seams open and flat.
- Join the two halves, checking that the centered stripe continues across the seam.
- Press the completed front.
The same four-piece sequence now produces a different pattern because the fabric’s stripes meet the diagonal pieces from another direction. The source does not establish a difference in durability, comfort or cost between the two fronts.
Make the envelope back
The envelope closure avoids a zipper. It consists of two overlapping back pieces with finished hems.
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- On one long edge of each back piece, fold a double 1-inch hem and press it.
- Sew both hems securely. A second fold encloses the raw edge.
- Lay the two pieces over the front so their finished edges overlap. Adjust the overlap until the combined back height matches the front’s height.
- With right sides together, pin around all four sides. Keep the overlap flat and secure it within the side seams.
- Sew around the four sides. Backstitch at each corner or secure the thread ends.
- Trim the corners close to, but not through, the stitching. Removing the excess fabric lets the corners turn without bulky folds.
- Turn the cover right side out and gently push the corners into shape.
- Press the edges and insert the pillow form through the envelope opening.
The back pieces are cut to the front’s width, and their combined height is trimmed to the front’s height after the hemmed edges overlap. This sequence follows the original project’s construction; do not substitute the separate 1/2-inch allowance or panel formula from another guide unless you recalculate the entire cover.
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How to keep stripes matched
- Mark a reference line: Draw a chalk line on the wrong side of every triangle at the same stripe position. Use it to align adjoining pieces.
- Pin at the stripe crossings: Place pins perpendicular to the seam at the points where black changes to white. Sew slowly over those points.
- Press, do not stretch: Set the iron on the fabric’s safe temperature and press seams open. Pulling the bias-cut triangles can distort the stripes.
- Check before trimming: Hold the sewn pair against the paper pattern before cutting anything else. Correct a mismatch while the seam is still easy to unpick.
- Use a walking foot if needed: For thick upholstery fabric or layers that shift, a walking foot can feed the layers more evenly, but the project does not require one.
Troubleshoot common problems
The stripes meet on one seam but not the other
The triangles may have been rotated or one seam may have been sewn with a different edge. Lay the pieces flat, identify the matching stripe crossings, and repin from those points outward. If the mismatch is minor, prioritize the center seam and the most visible outer lines.
The front is smaller than expected
Check whether the paper square was cut to 16.5 inches and whether the seam allowance was removed consistently. Mixing the 16.5-inch pattern with a different tutorial’s allowance changes the finished size. Measure the sewn front before cutting the back so the envelope pieces match the actual cover.
The corners look bulky
Trim the seam allowance diagonally at each corner without cutting the stitching, then turn and press. Too much untrimmed fabric is the usual cause of a lumpy point.
The centered stripe is off-center
Before cutting the perpendicular layout, fold the paper pattern in half and mark its center. Align that mark with the stripe’s centerline, not merely with one edge of the stripe. Recheck the alignment on all four triangles.
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The envelope opening gapes
Increase the overlap of the hemmed back pieces before sewing the side seams. Keep the finished edges parallel and ensure the combined back height equals the front height.
Choose between the two looks
| If you want… | Use this layout | Critical check before cutting |
|---|---|---|
| A framed, nested-square appearance | Long pattern side parallel to the stripes | The seam should fall at the edge of the chosen black stripe; use the 5/8-inch shift shown in the original example |
| A strong stripe running through the composition | Long pattern side perpendicular to the stripes | The pattern center must sit on the stripe you want emphasized |
Make a paper mock-up of both arrangements if you cannot visualize the result. Because the sewing steps and materials stay the same, the mock-up is the most efficient way to decide before cutting fabric.
Final inspection before inserting the form
- Confirm that all four front triangles face the intended direction.
- Check that the most visible stripe crossings are aligned.
- Verify that every seam is pressed open and that no pins remain.
- Inspect the envelope overlap for a continuous finished edge.
- Trim loose threads and press the cover once more before inserting the form.
This one-fabric method is valuable when you want coordinated pillows without buying or sewing two unrelated patterns. By changing only the stripe orientation and placement, the same basic pattern delivers two clearly different accents.
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