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Bobbin lace is made by crossing and twisting several threads wound on bobbins, then pinning the developing pattern to a pillow. To begin, you need a firm pillow, pins, thread and enough bobbins for your chosen pattern—but you do not need an expensive specialist kit. Start by winding bobbins, practice the basic movements, and then work a simple pattern.
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Bobbin lace is an openwork fabric formed by working multiple threads together. The threads are wound onto bobbins, crossed and twisted in a sequence, and pinned to a pattern as the lace grows. Needlelace is a different technique: it is made with a needle rather than by manipulating pairs of bobbins.
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The Lace Guild says no definite date can be assigned to lace’s invention; what is now recognized as lace likely arose in the early sixteenth century. The Guild dates the first known lace pattern books printed in Venice to the 1550s. This history does not establish a single inventor or certain point of origin. The Lace Guild’s brief history of lace gives its account.
What do I need to start bobbin lace?
A basic setup consists of a firm pillow, pins, suitable thread and bobbins. The pattern determines the particular thread, pin requirements and number of bobbins, so use its instructions rather than assuming one setup works for every project.
- Pillow: Use a firm round or square pillow suited to the pattern. The Australian Lace Guild notes that you can make a pillow yourself.
- Bobbins: Prepare the number of pairs your pattern calls for. The Australian Lace Guild recommends at least 10 pairs for getting started, but that is guidance rather than a universal requirement; a demonstration or a particular beginner pattern may use fewer.
- Pins and thread: They hold and form the work. Follow the pattern’s specifications for both.
- Pattern: Choose a simple beginner pattern with clear instructions for bobbin count, thread and pinning.
A complete starter kit is one convenient option, not a prerequisite. If you shop for a bobbin lace making starter kit, check that it actually includes a firm pillow, enough bobbins for its pattern, pins, thread and usable instructions. The Australian Lace Guild points out that the craft can be as affordable or elaborate as you choose, and suggests making a pillow and borrowing books or patterns as ways to keep costs down. Read the Australian Lace Guild’s equipment and getting-started advice.
Learn the basic movements first
Each stitch uses two pairs of bobbins at a time. The Australian Lace Guild describes two foundational movements, cross and twist. Because the movements depend on the bobbins’ positions, use a video or illustrated guide while practicing rather than relying on abbreviations alone.
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Cross
In the Guild’s numbered example, the cross movement is bobbin 2 over bobbin 3.
Twist
In the same example, the twist movement is bobbin 2 over bobbin 1, followed by bobbin 4 over bobbin 3. Keep the threads in the order specified by your pattern.
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Build toward a first pattern
After winding the bobbins, practice cross and twist, then learn cloth (also called whole) stitch and half stitch. Keep your thread order and tension even, and pin each part of the work as the pattern directs. Stitch names can vary by region: the Guild notes that whole stitch is called linen stitch in Europe, and that regional terminology for whole stitch and whole stitch-and-twist differs. Follow the terminology used by the instructions you are learning from.
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Choose a learning route
You can learn from written instructions and video, or get help from other lacemakers. The Lace Guild’s Getting Started page links to bobbin winding, basic stitches, a beginner pattern and additional easy patterns. Its introductory video page describes a video showing materials, equipment and simple pieces.
Quick Recap
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- Self-guided: Work through a winding guide and basic stitches, then choose a pattern that states its materials and bobbin count.
- Borrow resources: A library, guild or lace group may be able to lend books and patterns; buying a book is not essential for trying the craft.
- Find in-person help: The Australian Lace Guild recommends looking for a local state group. A group, class or workshop can help you follow the movements and pattern instructions.
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