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If fabric gets pulled into the throat plate or a thread nest forms as you begin a seam, try sewing onto a small scrap first. This scrap “leader strip” gives the needle fabric to stitch through before the project piece arrives. Jennifer Keltner of the American Patchwork & Quilting Sewing Lab demonstrates the method in Machine Minute: Leader Strip.
How to start a seam with a leader strip
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Cut a few small pieces from fabric scraps to use as leaders.
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Match the leader strip’s number of layers to the seam you’re sewing. For a seam with two fabric layers, fold the scrap so it also has two layers.
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Place the leader strip under the presser foot and begin stitching in its middle.
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Bring the project piece up to the leader strip. Align its edge with the machine’s quarter-inch guide, if that is the seam allowance you need, and keep sewing so the stitches continue from the scrap into the project fabric.
Why a scrap can help
At the beginning of a seam, a small or pointed piece may not feed smoothly; fabric can be pulled toward the throat plate, or thread can bunch into a nest. Starting on the leader puts fabric beneath the needle before the project piece reaches it. Keltner describes the aim as “a smooth start and finish at the beginning and ending of every piece.” Her tutorial explains the procedure but does not report a measured success rate, so results may vary with the fabric and machine.
Do you need a quarter-inch presser foot?
No specialty foot is required for the leader-strip technique. A related nine-patch lesson says to use either a regular presser foot or a quarter-inch foot with a guide. Use the guide only if it suits the seam allowance you are trying to sew; the scrap is the starter piece, not a special accessory.
When else can you use a leader?
For pointed piecing, a scrap can serve as a leader cloth: start stitching on the scrap, then feed the point of the project unit toward the needle. A related quarter-square-triangle tutorial uses this approach to help stitches reach the edge of a triangle point.
Quick Recap
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- Leaders are firmly woven, sturdy twill cotton fabric, with hemmed edges
- Extra-wide Velcro tape is attached for use with the HQ frame systems
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- Printed art on leaders may vary
Rank #3
- Leaders are firmly woven, sturdy twill cotton fabric, with hemmed edges
- Extra-wide Velcro tape is attached for use with the HQ frame systems
- Leaders may be trimmed as needed for a custom fit
- Dimensions: 15′ by 28″
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