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Make an appliqué template at the finished shape size, without seam allowance. Then choose your preparation method—turned-edge basting, freezer paper, or fusible web—before tracing and cutting fabric, because each method handles orientation and edges differently.
What you need to make an appliqué template
- Template plastic for a durable, reusable shape.
- A fine-point permanent marker and small, sharp scissors.
- A ruler for straight edges.
- A fabric-marking tool that contrasts with your fabric; test it on a scrap first.
For light fabric, a pencil may show clearly; for dark fabric, use a white, silver, or yellow dressmaker’s pencil. Avoid ballpoint and ink pens because marks may bleed when washed. The template-making method described by American Patchwork & Quilting uses template plastic to make consistent, reusable shapes.
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How to make an appliqué template
- Trace the pattern. Lay template plastic over the printed design and trace each shape with a fine-point permanent marker. Use a ruler on straight edges.
- Keep the template at finished size. Do not add seam allowance to the plastic shape. Add any fabric allowance later, following the pattern and the method you choose.
- Label each piece. Write its pattern letter or number, block name, grain line if provided, and stitching order on the template. Note edges that will be covered by another appliqué piece and therefore do not need to be turned under.
- Cut and check. Cut the plastic with small, sharp scissors. Place each cutout over the printed pattern; if it does not match, retrace and recut before using it on fabric.
- Plan orientation. Check whether the shape must be reversed. Flip the template before tracing when a mirror image is needed. Fusible-web patterns have their own faceup or facedown orientation rules, described below.
Choose a method before cutting fabric
The template is the finished shape; fabric cutting and edge finishing depend on the method. In particular, 3/16 inch is not a universal appliqué seam allowance: it is used in the specific basting and freezer-paper instructions cited here. Follow your pattern when it specifies a different allowance.
| Method | How it prepares the shape | Edge and allowance considerations | Best suited to |
|---|---|---|---|
| Template plastic with basting | A reusable plastic shape guides tracing; basting turns the fabric allowance under. | The cited basting instructions use 3/16 inch beyond the sewing line and clip inside curves and points close to, but not through, that line. | Repeated shapes or projects where a reusable template is useful. |
| Freezer paper | Its shiny coating temporarily adheres to fabric when pressed with a warm iron; the paper supports the turned edge. | The cited method cuts a 3/16-inch allowance and turns it over the paper. The paper can be removed before or after stitching. | Turned-edge shapes for hand or machine appliqué. |
| Fusible web | Adhesive bonds the appliqué fabric to the background, so the seam allowance does not need to be turned. | Use lightweight paper-backed web when stitching through the edge; heavyweight no-sew web is described for edges that will remain unstitched. Follow the product maker’s pressing directions. | A bonded appliqué workflow, often finished with machine stitching. |
Freezer paper is a temporary shaping guide; fusible web is an adhesive. They do different jobs. The method descriptions and allowances above come from the relevant template, freezer-paper, and fusible-web instructions.
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Trace and cut fabric for turned-edge preparation
- Choose a marking tool that contrasts with the fabric, and test it on a scrap.
- Place shapes at least 1/2 inch apart when tracing multiple pieces. Trace on the fabric side and in the orientation required by your method; the traced line is the sewing line.
- Flip the template before tracing if the design needs a mirror image.
- Cut the fabric with the allowance specified by the pattern and preparation method. For the cited basting preparation, cut 3/16 inch beyond the marked line.
- Clip inside curves and points close to the marked line without cutting through it, so the allowance can turn smoothly.
Prepare shapes with freezer paper
Freezer paper can guide turned edges for hand or machine appliqué. In the method from American Patchwork & Quilting, its shiny side temporarily sticks to fabric when pressed.
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- Put a small amount of water-soluble glue at the center of the paper’s dull side. Position it shiny side up against the wrong side of the designated fabric.
- Cut the fabric with a 3/16-inch allowance around the paper shape.
- With the tip of a hot, dry iron, turn the fabric allowance over the shiny side. Let the piece cool. Clip inner points close to the template so the fabric can stretch over them.
- Remove the paper before or after appliquéing the shape to the foundation.
Prepare shapes with fusible web
Fusible web bonds the appliqué shape to its background rather than serving as a removable turning template. The fusible-web instructions specify the following sequence:
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- Check the pattern’s orientation. Trace it faceup if it was designed for fusible appliqué and facedown if it was not, so the finished shape is not reversed.
- Trace the required number of shapes on the web’s paper side, leaving about 1/2 inch between tracings. Cut roughly 1/4 inch outside each drawn line.
- For layered work where excess adhesive can make the block stiff, cut away the web center about 1/4 inch inside the traced line, retaining a frame.
- Fuse the web paper-side-up to the designated fabric using the product maker’s instructions. Pick up and set down the iron rather than sliding it, then let the piece cool.
- Cut on the traced line and peel off the paper backing.
Layer and stitch the appliqué
Prepare related pieces together, then assemble layered motifs from the bottom layer upward unless the pattern specifies another order. A piece covered by a later shape may have edges that do not need turning under; mark those edges on the template before cutting. For fusible pieces, stitch edges that the pattern calls for securing, using a web intended to be stitched through.
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