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appliqué

Video 16: Pivoting at Curves and Points in Machine Appliqué

Pivot smoothly in machine appliqué: keep the needle down, make frequent small turns on curves, and narrow the stitch as you approach a point.

By ThatPainter Team 3 min read
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To pivot while machine appliquéing, stop with the needle down, lift the presser foot, turn the fabric a small amount, lower the foot, and continue stitching. Make small, frequent adjustments around curves; at a point, shorten the stitch width as you approach, pivot at the tip, then widen it gradually on the next side.

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How to pivot without losing the appliqué edge

  1. Stop with the needle down. The needle holds the fabric in place while you turn. Pause before the next stitch would carry the needle beyond the appliqué edge.
  2. Lift the presser foot. Keep the needle in the fabric, then gently shift the fabric and appliqué into the direction of the next stitches.
  3. Lower the foot and stitch on. Check that the needle swing catches the appliqué edge and just reaches the foundation fabric. Repeat as needed rather than dragging or pushing the fabric through a curve.

These are the steps demonstrated in AllPeopleQuilt’s Video 16: Pivoting at Curves and Points, published October 13, 2016.

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Pivoting around inside and outside curves

Use small, gentle turns at regular intervals. AllPeopleQuilt presenter Jennifer Keltner advises pivoting more frequently rather than less frequently to keep a curve smooth. The right needle position depends on the curve and the direction a swing stitch, such as zigzag, travels in relation to the appliqué edge.

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Inside curves

For an inside curve, position the needle so the stitch’s swing onto the foundation follows close to the edge without wandering too far away from it. Before each turn, keep the needle down on the appropriate side of the swing, lift the presser foot, and rotate the fabric slightly.

Outside curves

For an outside curve, the needle-down position differs from the one used for an inside curve. Check where the needle is in the stitch’s swing relative to the appliqué edge before turning; the companion guide’s diagrams distinguish the two positions. Frequent small pivots help avoid slanted stitches that can result from pushing or pulling fabric around a curve instead of lifting the foot to turn it.

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See the diagrams in AllPeopleQuilt’s Tips for Machine Appliqué to compare inside- and outside-curve needle placement.

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How to pivot at a point

Do not wait for a full stitch to carry the needle past the appliqué tip. As the point approaches, gradually reduce the stitch width so the swing stays within the shape. Stop at the tip with the needle down, lift the presser foot, turn the fabric toward the next side, then lower the foot and gradually increase the width as you stitch away from the point. This gives the needle room to follow both sides without a stitch extending beyond the fabric shape.

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Choose a stitch for the look you want

Look Stitch and thread guidance Placement
Visible decoration Use a visible specialty stitch, such as blanket stitch; choose thread that contrasts with the appliqué if you want the stitching to stand out. Keep the stitch positioned to secure the appliqué edge while making the decorative line visible.
Subtle, mock-hand effect Use a narrow zigzag or blind-hem stitch with thread that matches the appliqué. Keep most of the stitch on the appliqué, with the needle swing onto the foundation tracking close to the edge.

For one specific demonstration—not a universal setting—Jennifer Keltner used a 1.5 mm-wide zigzag with a stitch length of 1.0 or 1.2 mm in Machine Minute: Perfect Points and Curves, published October 13, 2016. Machine controls and project needs vary, so use those figures as an example rather than a required setting.

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Check stitch placement and prepare the fabric

  • Too far inside the edge: fabric threads can remain exposed at the appliqué edge.
  • Too far outside the edge: the appliqué may pull loose because the stitches do not hold it securely.
  • Gaps or slanted stitches: check that you are pivoting with the needle down on the correct side of the stitch swing, and turn the fabric with the presser foot raised rather than pushing or pulling it around the curve.

The AllPeopleQuilt machine-appliqué guide recommends a new, sharp embroidery needle in size 60/8, 70/10, 75/11, or 80/12. It also recommends placing stabilizer under the foundation fabric to support it and help prevent puckering. The guide names cut-away, tear-away, and wash-away stabilizers and advises experimenting to find what suits the project. Before stitching the finished piece, practice curves and points on scrap fabric, as the video advises.

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