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You can use this six-drawer console project as a guide to the build sequence, but not as a ready-to-cut plan: the builder shares approximate overall dimensions and construction methods, not a complete cut list or precise diagrams. In Part 1, Kristi Linauer describes making a trimmed plywood top, assembling the front frame and cabinet, and adding dividers, a bottom panel, and repurposed legs. The lower shelf and drawers are covered in Part 2.
What does Part 1 of this console-table build cover?
Part 1 is a process account of the main cabinet, not a complete set of furniture plans. Linauer’s goal was a custom console about 72 inches wide, 19 inches deep, and 34 inches tall. She began with a basic drawing and general dimensions, then worked out the construction as she went. Those figures describe her target for her own room; they are not a dimensioned plan that can be copied without checking how the parts fit together.
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The project is useful if you want to understand the order of assembly and adapt the design to your space. The first installment follows the case from the top and front frame through its dividers, bottom panel, and legs. The next installment adds the lower shelf and drawers. A later finished-project post shows the chosen surface treatment and decorative details.
That distinction matters before you buy materials or make cuts. Linauer explicitly says her process does not include precise computer-generated diagrams or cut lists. The dimensions and methods below explain what she did, but you will need to work out your own component sizes and verify them as you build.
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What materials and tools does the described build use?
The project account names the materials and tools used for particular parts, but it does not provide complete quantities. Treat this as a reference list, not a shopping list.
- Top: plywood cut to 18.5 by 72 inches, with 1×2 lumber added along the sides and front.
- Cabinet and frame: plywood for the sides and dividers, quarter-inch plywood for the bottom, and lumber for the front-frame rails and stiles.
- Legs: turned legs repurposed from an earlier dining table, cut into sections with a miter saw.
- Fasteners and adhesive: wood glue and 18-gauge, 1.5-inch brad nails for the top trim; pocket screws, wood glue, and a pocket-hole jig for the front frame and much of the case.
- Tools named in the account: a table saw, miter saw, brad nailer, and pocket-hole jig.
The material grades, thicknesses for most panels, exact rail and stile dimensions, and total quantities are not established in the project details summarized here. Choose materials and sizes for your own design, and do not assume the listed top dimensions determine every other part.
How is the cabinet assembled?
The central idea is to build the console upside down, starting with the top and front assembly and adding the cabinet structure around them. The sequence below reflects the builder’s account; it is not a substitute for drawing and checking your own part dimensions.
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- Set the overall proportions. Start with the space where the console will go and decide the width, depth, and height that suit it. Linauer’s approximate target was 72 by 19 by 34 inches. Sketch the design and lay out the drawer openings before cutting, so the front frame, dividers, and intended drawer sizes can be coordinated.
- Make the top panel. The builder cut a plywood panel to 18.5 by 72 inches. She added 1×2 trim along the sides and front, mitering the trim corners, and attached it with wood glue and 18-gauge, 1.5-inch brad nails. The trim is part of this design; the account does not specify that it should project by a particular amount or how its dimensions should be adjusted for a different top.
- Assemble the front frame. The frame’s rails and stiles divide the front into openings for the drawers. Linauer joined the frame and much of the cabinet with pocket screws and glue, using a pocket-hole jig. Plan the opening layout before fastening the frame: the openings are a key reference for the drawer fronts that are fitted later.
- Add the sides and dividers. The cabinet sides and interior dividers were cut from plywood and assembled to define the case and drawer areas. The source does not give a full dimension schedule for those panels. Their positions need to match your chosen overall dimensions and the front-frame layout.
- Use spacers to position the back sections. Linauer used spacers to keep the back sections square and to support the legs. This is a useful reminder that alignment is part of the structure, not just a cosmetic finishing step: check the case for square as its pieces are joined, and make sure the parts intended to meet the legs are positioned consistently.
- Cover the bottom. The cabinet bottom was covered with quarter-inch plywood. The account gives the panel thickness but not a complete cut size or a detailed fastening schedule, so determine those from your own case dimensions and assembly plan.
- Attach the leg sections. The turned legs came from an earlier dining table and were cut into sections with a miter saw. The tall sections were glued in place and reinforced later. If you are adapting the idea with different legs, the source does not establish their dimensions, material, or load capacity; plan the attachment for your own case and parts rather than assuming the reused legs are interchangeable with any other leg.
Building upside down helps explain the order of this particular assembly, but it does not eliminate the need to plan access to joints and fasteners. Before committing to cuts, map the parts and the drawer openings together. A frame that looks plausible on its own still has to leave room for the drawer construction and guides described in Part 2.
How do the lower shelf and drawers fit into the project?
The lower shelf and drawer work are in Part 2, so Part 1 alone does not take the table to completion. The follow-up describes drawer fronts sized to fit their openings, drawer sides and backs made from 1×6 lumber, and quarter-inch MDF bottoms set in grooves.
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The drawer openings and drawer fronts have to be coordinated. Part 2 describes the fronts as sized to fit the openings, but the source does not supply a complete set of opening or drawer measurements. That makes careful measuring and fitting part of adapting the design, rather than a step you can skip by copying the overall console dimensions.
How can you adapt the dimensions without a cut list?
Use the published dimensions as a sense of scale, then create a drawing for your own console before cutting. The target—about 72 inches wide, 19 inches deep, and 34 inches tall—answers how large Linauer intended her piece to be, not how long every rail, divider, shelf, or drawer part should be.
A practical planning pass is to decide the finished outside dimensions first, then lay out the front openings and the locations of the cabinet sides and dividers. Account for the top panel and its trim, and think through where the lower shelf and drawer guides will sit. This is a planning framework for adapting the project, not a dimension schedule supplied by the original post.
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Write down each part’s intended size and check how it meets the adjacent parts. Because no complete cut list or computer-generated diagrams are provided, verify measurements against the actual pieces and your assembly method before cutting. If you change the console’s width, depth, height, drawer layout, or leg design, expect to revise related parts rather than changing one number in isolation. Do not treat the builder’s approximate overall dimensions as evidence of a particular load capacity, safety certification, or tested durability.
Independent reader supportYour contribution helps us test, update, and keep practical guides available for everyone.What finish and styling did the completed table use?
In the finished-project post, Linauer describes staining the wood with oil-based Varathane Golden Oak stain, then applying Briwax liming wax and buffing with 000 steel wool. The drawer fronts used grasscloth, with trim frames and ring pulls. These are the maker’s chosen finish and styling details, not requirements of the cabinet design or universal recommendations for other materials.
If you want a different look, the case-building sequence can be considered separately from those decorative choices. A painted finish, another stain color, plain drawer fronts, or different pulls would change the appearance without turning the original process account into a complete plan for those alternatives. Check that any finish you select is appropriate for the surfaces and materials in your own version; the project details do not compare finish products or report durability tests.
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What should you confirm before starting?
Before buying materials or cutting, confirm the dimensions you need and prepare a part layout of your own. The most important limitation is not the absence of a particular tool or technique; it is that the project account leaves key measurements and quantities for the reader to determine.
- Measure the intended location and set your own finished width, depth, and height.
- Draw the front-frame layout and decide how many openings you need and where the dividers go.
- Work out the dimensions and quantities for the sides, dividers, bottom, lower shelf, drawers, and trim; the source does not provide a complete cut list.
- Choose between wood guides and metal slides based on your project requirements. The account offers no performance ranking or durability comparison.
- Plan how your chosen legs will attach to the case. The source describes reused turned legs but does not provide a universal leg specification.
- Check measurements and fit as the project comes together, especially where drawer fronts and openings must correspond.
Linauer presents the project as a way to learn how the pieces come together and design something custom, rather than as instructions for reproducing an exact set of plans. Readers who need a cut-by-cut plan should not assume this series supplies one.
Frequently Asked Questions
What did the builder use to strip the turned legs, and will it remove varnish?
The available project details do not identify a stripping product or confirm whether it works on varnish. Check the leg’s existing finish and follow the instructions for any product you choose; do not infer compatibility from this console build.
How much weight can this six-drawer console hold?
The project account does not report a load rating or test result, so it cannot establish a safe weight limit. The capacity depends on the materials, dimensions, joinery, leg attachment, and intended use of the version you build.
Can I get a complete cut list for this exact table from the project series?
The series is described as a process account rather than a precise plan set, and it does not provide computer-generated diagrams or a complete cut list. You will need to develop and verify dimensions for your own layout before cutting.
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