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The condo bedroom built-in closet project reached its trim stage on November 12, 2014: both cabinet-style closet boxes were built, and the author had begun fitting baseboards and upper trim on the second one. Filling, caulking, priming, and painting were still to come. The project shows how two narrow closets can flank a bed while serving different hanging needs—and how door clearance and wall trim can force a design change before the paint goes on.
The dimensions, storage figures, and cost below are Kristi Linauer’s project-specific 2014 figures, not general recommendations or current estimates. Her November 12 progress report captures the unfinished stage; a completion post five days later records the final storage arrangement and reported cost.
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What had been completed by November 12, 2014?
By the progress-post date, both closet boxes were built. The author had completed the baseboards and top trim on one closet and was working on the same finishing details for the other. The cabinets had not yet reached their painted finish: wood filling, caulking, priming, and painting remained. That distinction matters when reading the project as a painting or renovation reference. The November 12 post documents construction progress, not a finished-room reveal.
The work was part of a larger bedroom makeover in a condo. Rather than use one broad closet, the design placed a cabinet-style closet on each side of the bed. This made the storage part of the room’s built-in composition, but it also meant the bed, the space between the closets, and the doors all had to work together. The progress report is especially useful because it records an adjustment made when those pieces met in the room: existing wall covering and chair rail interfered with the closet doors.
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In the earlier Part 1 materials and construction post, Linauer described rebuilding cabinet-style closets. She said she felt more confident in the construction of these closets than in the previous ones. That is her own assessment, not an independent inspection or a general judgment about the design.
How were the closets arranged around the bed?
Linauer reported that each closet was about 23 inches wide inside, 24 inches deep, and 7.5 feet tall. The opening between the two closets measured 73 inches. Those figures describe this particular room and build; they are not standard dimensions or a template for another bedroom.
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The gap changed the bed decision. Linauer had initially assumed a standard king would fit, but corrected that assumption: the 76-inch-wide king she considered was wider than the 73-inch space between the built-ins. A queen would fit comfortably in that room, she reported. The practical lesson is to measure the clear space between finished closet faces, not merely the wall or bed area in the abstract, and to check the actual bed width being considered. The 73- and 76-inch figures belong to this project and should not be generalized to all beds or rooms.
The closets were not intended to have identical interiors. The plan was one long-hang closet for longer garments and one double-hang closet for shorter clothes. In the project’s completion post, the author reported one closet with a top shelf and a single long-hang bar, and the other with two bars. Together, she reported about 69 inches of hanging storage. That total is her project figure from November 2014, not a storage capacity estimate for other closet dimensions.
This split is a useful planning idea when two storage units sit together: allocate each space according to the kinds of garments that need to hang there rather than assuming both interiors must match. The reader should still measure the items and clearances in their own room; the source does not establish a universal rod height, shelf height, or load rating.
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Why did the author remove the wall covering and chair rail?
The closet doors could not open freely with the existing chunky chair rail in place. Linauer removed both the grasscloth wall covering and the chair rail where they obstructed the door swing. This was a functional adjustment, not simply a decorative preference: the trim projected into the space needed by the hinged doors.
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When adapting the idea, check the path of each door before settling the trim details. A door that clears the cabinet box may still collide with wall trim or other nearby features as it swings open. The exact conflict here involved chair rail, but the broader project-planning point is to consider the door’s full arc and the surfaces it approaches. The post does not provide a clearance dimension, so there is no evidence-based number to copy from this room.
The wall covering removal also changed what needed finishing. The progress report says the grasscloth was removed, but it does not provide a detailed account of wall repair or preparation after removal. Anyone working on a different wall should assess its actual condition rather than assume the surface will be ready for primer or paint as soon as a covering comes off.
What changed in the upper trim plan?
The original crown-like trim plan was revised. Linauer used leftover MDF and pine cove molding to make a simpler top treatment. The change is a reminder that an upper trim detail is not isolated from the rest of the build: it has to fit the room, the cabinet height, and the materials available. In this case, the author adapted the treatment rather than following the first plan exactly.
The source identifies the materials but does not provide a measured drawing of the revised profile or a universal cutting plan. Treat the combination as an example of a project-specific solution, not a prescribed molding assembly. For a similar built-in, lay out the intended top profile against the actual cabinet and ceiling before cutting; the source’s central point is that the author used leftover material to simplify the treatment after the room’s conditions led to changes.
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What did the project use to build and finish the cabinets?
The Part 1 tutorial lists a mix of sheet goods, lumber, trim, hardware, and finish supplies. For the cabinet boxes, the author used 1/2-inch and 3/4-inch MDF, along with plywood. The listed framing and trim lumber included 2×6, 1×3, and 1×6 pieces, lattice strips, base-cap molding, quarter round, MDF trim boards, and pine cove molding. Wood glue, screws, and nails were also on the materials list.
The hardware included cabinet hinges, magnetic catches, and adjustable closet rods. The rods are particularly relevant to the final arrangement: one closet needed a long-hang bar and the other needed two bars for shorter garments. The project source names adjustable closet rods but does not identify a current model, price, availability, or compatibility details. Likewise, magnetic catches appear in the materials list, but the sources do not specify a product or installation dimensions.
For the finishing phase, the listed items included latex caulk, wood filler, sandpaper, primer, paint, and a paintbrush. The progress report’s sequence—fill, caulk, prime, then paint—makes clear that trim installation was not the endpoint. These steps were still pending at the time of that post. It is reasonable to read them as the planned finish sequence in this project, but the source does not name a particular primer, paint, sheen, or surface-preparation specification.
Tools in the tutorial included a circular saw, drill and screwdriver bits, air compressor, 16- and 18-gauge nail guns, framing square, caulk gun, and level. That is the author’s listed tool set, not a claim that every tool is mandatory for every variation. The article documents one DIY project; it does not report professional inspection, testing, or a load rating. For structural, safety, or building-rule questions in another condo, these posts do not establish the answer.
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At the November 12 snapshot, painting had not started. The author still needed to fill, caulk, prime, and paint after completing the trim. This is important if using the post as a visual or scheduling reference: the baseboards and top trim were installed, but the built-ins were not yet presented as finished painted cabinetry.
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The listed finish materials identify the broad tasks but do not document product choices or technical instructions. The project mentions wood filler, sandpaper, latex caulk, primer, paint, and a brush; it does not say which filler or primer was selected, how many coats were applied, how long products dried, or what paint finish was used. Those details should not be inferred from the progress post. The useful takeaway is the stage boundary: after trim installation, the author still expected surface filling and caulking before primer and paint.
That sequence also helps explain why a progress photograph can look close to complete while substantial finishing remains. Trim joints and fastener marks may still need attention, and the post explicitly identifies filling and caulking as unfinished work. The source does not show whether every seam or joint received the same treatment, so readers should not treat the article as a detailed finishing specification.
Independent reader supportYour contribution helps us test, update, and keep practical guides available for everyone.What did the completed project report?
On November 17, five days after the progress post, Linauer published a completion update. She reported that one closet had a top shelf and one bar for long garments, while the other had two bars for shorter clothes. The combined hanging storage was about 69 inches. Her reported project cost was approximately $168 per closet.
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Both figures are historical and specific to this 2014 build. The cost is not a current budget, and the posts do not provide a present-day materials estimate. It should not be used as a price comparison or as a promise that another pair of closets can be built for the same amount. The available sources also do not break that figure down by material, hardware, labor, or any later changes.
The November 17 finished-closet post completes the chronology: the November 12 article is a report from mid-project, while the later post documents the finished arrangement and reported cost. Read together, the two posts show why it is useful to distinguish a build update from a final project record.
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What can a reader take from this specific condo project?
- Measure the arrangement as a whole. The author’s 73-inch gap between closets ruled out the 76-inch king she had considered, even though the closets themselves were relatively narrow.
- Choose storage by garment type. The two interiors were assigned different jobs: one long-hang, one double-hang. The completed post reports a shelf and one bar in the former, two bars in the latter.
- Check door swing before finalizing nearby trim. The chair rail obstructed the doors, so the author removed it along with the grasscloth wall covering.
- Expect a separate finishing phase. The trim progress did not mean the closets were painted; filling, caulking, priming, and painting remained.
- Keep historical numbers in context. The dimensions, storage total, and about-$168-per-closet cost are the author’s 2014 project figures, not modern standards or estimates.
The project is most useful as a case study in fitting storage around a bed and adapting details to room constraints. It does not establish code requirements, construction load limits, or current material costs. Those questions require information beyond the historical posts.
Frequently Asked Questions
What happened to the closet project after the November 12 update?
The author published a completion post on November 17, 2014, describing the final hanging layout and reporting the project cost. The two posts are five days apart and document different stages rather than conflicting descriptions.
Did the closets have shelves in both sides?
The completion post specifically reports a top shelf in the long-hang closet. The source does not say that the double-hang closet had a shelf, so it is best not to assume a matching shelf arrangement.
Can I use the reported $168 cost as a budget for a similar build now?
No. It is an approximate per-closet figure reported for this project in November 2014, and the sources do not provide a current price update or a detailed cost breakdown.
Were these built-ins professionally inspected or load-tested?
The cited project posts do not report an inspection or load test. They document the author’s DIY process and should not be treated as proof of a particular load capacity or compliance with requirements for another home.
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