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A washer cubbie is a raised platform built to fit a washing machine, with open or enclosed space for storage underneath. You can plan one as a solid base, a cabinet, or a drawer pedestal—but the washer’s installation instructions, its loaded weight, and your room’s clearances must determine the design. The available project information does not specify a particular washer, room, or set of cubby dimensions, so this guide explains how to plan and build the project without guessing at a one-size-fits-all plan.
What should you check before building a washer cubbie?
Start with the washer’s documentation and the space, not with a cut list. A custom pedestal has to fit the appliance footprint and room, support the washer under its specified operating conditions, preserve required ventilation, and leave hookups and service points accessible. Lowe’s pedestal guide recommends checking the appliance manufacturer’s specifications and measuring the room before building; its general advice is not a structural plan for a particular project.
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Write down these measurements and requirements before sketching the cubby:
- Washer footprint: Measure the appliance base, and confirm its installation documentation for the dimensions and any pedestal or mounting requirements. Do not assume that a nominal washer width tells you the full footprint.
- Loaded weight and floor support: Check what the washer manufacturer says the floor must support, including water and laundry where specified. A pedestal must be designed for the actual appliance; a plywood thickness or joinery choice cannot be treated as a load rating without a design calculation.
- Room dimensions: Measure the width, depth, and height available, including the path for moving the washer into place. Account for the added platform height, door swing, and room to stand in front of the machine.
- Hookups and service access: Locate shutoff valves, drain connections, hoses, electrical connections, and any points that need to remain reachable. Plan routes for hoses and the power cord so they are not pinched behind or beneath the platform.
- Ventilation and clearances: Follow the exact washer’s installation manual. A built-in cabinet or closet can change airflow, so a neat enclosure is not automatically an acceptable one.
Do not design around a generic internet dimension if your washer manual gives a different requirement. The measurements and examples below illustrate why: requirements vary by model.
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How much clearance and ventilation does a laundry closet need?
There is no universal closet clearance or vent-opening size for every washer. Use the installation documentation for the exact appliance, and treat measurements from another model only as an example.
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For example, the 2024 Whirlpool W11436596 Rev. B owner’s manual says the floor must support the washer’s total weight with water and load: 315 pounds. That is a requirement for the washer covered by that manual—not a general rating for all washers, and not a sufficient design specification for a wooden cubby by itself.
The same manual’s closet diagram calls for a minimum of 48 square inches of upper and 24 square inches of lower closet-door ventilation opening. Those figures are likewise specific to that manual. The manual directs owners to check the quick-start guide for model-specific details, so do not use these figures as a universal building-code rule or substitute them for your own appliance instructions.
Before construction, check whether your washer’s documentation specifies side, rear, or overhead clearances, ventilation openings, or access requirements. If the cubby will sit inside a closet, consider how its sides, top, and storage doors affect the documented openings. If a requirement is unclear, resolve it from the appliance manufacturer’s instructions or support materials before closing in the space.
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Which washer-pedestal design makes sense?
Choose the form that fits your storage needs without blocking airflow, hookups, or service access. The basic options are a solid platform, a cabinet-style base, and a platform with drawers; the right choice depends on the room and the washer’s instructions.
- Solid platform: The simplest form to plan around if storage is not needed. It still has to be sized and built for the washer, and the space beneath it should not obstruct any required access or ventilation.
- Open cubby: Gives you a place for laundry supplies while keeping the storage opening visible and easy to reach. Check that stored items will not interfere with hoses, valves, or air openings.
- Cabinet doors: Conceal stored items, but make sure the enclosed space and any doors do not conflict with ventilation requirements or access needs.
- Drawers: Provide contained storage, but need space to extend and hardware that fits the chosen design. Drawer slides are among the optional materials listed in Lowe’s general guide.
For a purchased alternative, a manufactured pedestal may provide storage and a model-specific installation approach, but compatibility is not universal. Whirlpool directs owners to model-specific pedestal installation information, and its pedestal installation help page is a useful starting point. Check the exact washer and pedestal documentation before buying or installing one.
Typical manufactured pedestal dimensions are useful only as broad planning references. Maytag reports common ranges of 27–28 inches wide, 26–29 inches deep, and 10–16 inches high, while emphasizing that actual models vary. Those ranges do not specify the dimensions or load capacity of a custom cubby. A pedestal also raises the washer, which can improve access for some people but can create overhead clearance or reach issues. Measure the complete washer-plus-pedestal height in the actual room before committing to a raised design.
How do you plan the cubby dimensions?
Use the measured washer base, available room, and appliance instructions to create a project drawing; do not copy an unverified set of dimensions. Lowe’s recommends measuring before building and using the manufacturer’s specifications. A manufactured pedestal’s dimensions can provide a comparison point, but they are not a construction plan for a custom platform.
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- Draw the room and appliance footprint. Mark walls, closet doors, door swing, hookups, and any obstructions. Show the washer base and the space needed to load it and reach the rear connections.
- Set the platform footprint. The top must accommodate the washer base as required by the appliance documentation. Avoid an overhang or narrow support arrangement unless the design has been properly calculated for the load.
- Choose the height around clearance and access. A taller base means less overhead room and a higher door opening. Check the user’s reach, room ceiling, shelving, and any nearby cabinets along with the washer’s installation requirements.
- Reserve the storage volume. Decide whether the opening is a cubby, cabinet, or drawer, then verify that doors or drawers can open without hitting walls or laundry equipment. Keep service and ventilation areas unobstructed.
- Review the design against the manual. Confirm that the final dimensions preserve all required clearances and airflow. If the manual does not give enough information for your proposed enclosure, do not assume that a smaller gap is acceptable.
Make a materials list only after this drawing is settled. The listed materials in Lowe’s guide include wood boards, plywood, adhesive, nails, screws, paint or stain, and optional cabinet hardware, moulding, and drawer slides. The type, quantity, and dimensions depend on the design; the available guidance does not establish a safe universal lumber size or fastener schedule.
What is a sensible washer-cubbie build sequence?
A practical sequence is to plan first, cut and prepare the parts, assemble the frame, add the panels and storage, and finish the surfaces. Exact tools, dimensions, and joinery depend on the design, so treat this as a workflow—not a tested plan or structural specification.
- Finalize the drawing and materials list. Recheck the washer footprint, floor and load requirements, closet ventilation, access points, and total height. Decide where the hoses and cord will pass, and how the machine will be moved onto the base.
- Cut and sand the components. Cut the frame and panel pieces to the dimensions in your design, and prepare their edges before assembly. Keep all parts identified so the base and top go together as planned.
- Drill pilot holes or optional pocket holes. Lowe’s guide includes a drill and pocket-hole jig among possible tools and notes that pocket holes can strengthen corner and side joints. A pocket hole jig kit is an optional joinery aid, not a requirement for every design. Use joinery appropriate to the actual materials and design.
- Assemble the frame. Join the frame components with the specified screws and, where appropriate for the design, adhesive. Keep the assembly square as you work; an out-of-square frame can make the top and storage components difficult to fit.
- Attach the top, bottom, and sides. Add the panels called for in the plan. Check the platform’s fit and the intended openings before installing the washer or closing off any access area.
- Install the chosen storage. Fit planned doors, hardware, or drawer slides, and check that moving parts have room to open. Make sure storage does not block airflow or needed access.
- Finish the surfaces. Paint or stain after assembly, following the finish product’s instructions. Plan the finish as part of the project, but do not let appearance take priority over fit, ventilation, or service access.
- Place and install the washer according to its instructions. Follow the washer and pedestal installation documentation, including any leveling requirements. Check that the machine is level before use, as manufacturer pedestal guidance emphasizes.
Construction is only one part of the job: the finished platform and installed appliance must still satisfy the washer’s requirements. If the design needs a load rating or structural calculation that the source plans do not provide, obtain an appropriate design rather than inferring one from a general DIY guide.
How should you think about painting or staining the cubby?
Finish is the visible final step, but it should come after the design and assembly decisions. Lowe’s lists paint or stain as possible materials and advises following product instructions; it does not specify a particular coating system for this project.
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Choose a finish only after deciding which surfaces will be exposed and how the cubby will be used. A painted exterior, a stained wood surface, or unfinished interior surfaces are design choices, not substitutes for a platform that is correctly sized and supported. Follow the chosen product’s directions for preparation and application, and allow the finish to dry as directed before installing the washer or storing supplies. Keep coatings away from areas where they could interfere with appliance connections, ventilation openings, or moving drawer hardware.
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For a painting-focused project, the cubby also offers a chance to coordinate the platform with the laundry room’s trim or cabinetry. Work out the color and finish before assembly if that helps you plan the look, but do not invent a paint specification from the appliance manual: the cited sources do not prescribe one.
Independent reader supportYour contribution helps us test, update, and keep practical guides available for everyone.Should you build a washer cubbie or buy a pedestal?
Build custom if the room needs a particular storage layout and you can verify the design against the washer requirements. Buy a manufactured pedestal if a compatible model fits the appliance and room and its installation instructions suit the setup. Neither route removes the need to confirm fit and leveling.
Compare the options on the points that affect the installation:
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- Compatibility: A manufactured unit is not automatically compatible with every washer. Verify model fit and installation requirements. A custom base also needs to match the washer footprint and documentation.
- Height: Compare the added height with ceiling clearance, overhead storage, and how high the washer door and controls will sit. Maytag’s 10–16-inch typical height range is a general reference for manufactured pedestals, not a required custom height.
- Storage: A custom cubby can be drawn around the storage you actually need; a manufactured pedestal offers the storage arrangement of its specific model. In either case, storage must not compromise service access or required ventilation.
- Installation information: A manufacturer’s model-specific instructions can clarify its pedestal installation requirements. A DIY plan needs its own sound dimensions and structural decisions; a general step list does not supply those calculations.
One separate example illustrates how much plans can differ: Ana White’s farmhouse washer-dryer pedestal plan is labeled intermediate and lists an estimated cost of $100–$150. That estimate applies to that plan page, not to this washer-cubbie project or a current quote for your materials.
What are the biggest mistakes to avoid?
The most consequential mistakes come from treating a washer cubbie as ordinary storage furniture. The appliance’s weight, vibration, connections, and installation requirements make model-specific planning essential.
- Copying another washer’s dimensions: Model-specific manuals can specify different clearances and ventilation. Use your own appliance documentation.
- Assuming the platform is safe because it looks sturdy: Appearance does not establish load capacity. Check the washer’s loaded-weight requirement and use a properly designed structure; the cited general guide is not a structural calculation.
- Enclosing the washer without checking airflow: A cabinet-style cubby may look finished but still conflict with the manual’s ventilation requirements. Confirm the required openings before building.
- Blocking hoses, valves, or service access: Plan the rear and side routes before assembling panels, and keep necessary points reachable.
- Ignoring the added height: A raised washer may no longer clear shelves or fit comfortably for the people who use it. Check total installed height, reach, and door operation.
- Assuming a purchased pedestal fits: Confirm compatibility for the exact appliance model and follow both sets of installation instructions.
- Treating a plan’s cost as a project budget: Published estimates belong to their named plan and do not account for the dimensions or materials of a different build.
Frequently Asked Questions
Can a washer cubbie go in a small laundry closet?
Possibly, but the available floor area alone does not establish that the installation will work. The washer’s own instructions must be checked for clearance and ventilation, and the design must leave room for hoses, service access, and the machine’s door.
Does a washer cubbie need to be attached to the wall?
The cited general build guidance does not establish a universal wall-attachment requirement or fastening method. Follow the appliance and project design requirements rather than assuming that a wall connection is either necessary or sufficient for a safe base.
Is the $100–$150 estimate a realistic budget for my washer cubbie?
That figure is the estimate on Ana White’s separate farmhouse pedestal plan, not a quote for this project. Your actual materials list depends on your dimensions, storage design, and local material costs.
Can I use any pedestal under my washer?
No. Compatibility and installation requirements vary by appliance and pedestal, so check the documentation for both exact models before purchasing or fitting a manufactured unit.
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