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chain piecing

Why Use a Leader and Ender Strip When You Sew?

A fabric leader starts your seam and an ender catches its finish. Learn how the method works, when it may help, and how to turn scraps into a second project.

By ThatPainter Team 3 min read
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A leader and an ender are small pieces of fabric sewn immediately before and after your project seam. They keep fabric under the needle as stitching starts and finishes, which may help reduce thread tangles and prevent a small fabric edge from being pulled into the needle opening. In chain piecing, the ender can remain under the presser foot and serve as the next leader.

What a leader and ender do

A leader is a scrap or fabric unit you sew into before beginning the seam on your project pieces. An ender is what you sew onto after finishing that seam. In chain piecing—a way of sewing successive units without cutting the connecting thread after each seam—the ender can be left in place to lead the next seam.

That gives the needle and feed dogs fabric to work with before or after a small project piece. American Patchwork & Quilting Editors explain that when there is little fabric for the feed dogs to catch, initial stitches can draw the fabric toward the throat-plate opening. A leader can help with that situation; an ender can provide a fabric landing at the end of a seam or chain.

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How to sew with a leader and ender

  1. Set a suitable piece beside the machine. Use an ordinary fabric scrap, or a prepared pair of pieces if you are making patchwork for another project. No special tool or purchased fabric is required.
  2. Sew across the leader first. Place it under the presser foot and stitch across it, then feed the project pieces in without cutting the connecting thread if you are chain piecing.
  3. Finish onto an ender. After the project seam or chain, continue stitching onto another scrap or prepared fabric pair. Leave that ender under the presser foot if it will lead the next seam.
  4. Separate the work when appropriate. Trim the connecting thread behind the ender as needed. Follow your pattern’s directions for seam finishing and pressing.
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Choose a reusable scrap or make a second project

Approach What you sew Best fit
Reuse one scrap A suitable scrap before and after your project seams; trim and reuse it as needed. A simple way to keep fabric under the needle without adding another patchwork project.
Build a leader-and-ender project Pairs of project pieces that become joined units while you sew other work. Quilters who want to turn those extra seams into gradual progress on a second quilt.

American Patchwork & Quilting Editors describe using pairs of pieces this way, and GE Designs’ “Strippin’ on the Side” also describes sewing units for a separate scrap project while chain piecing. The project pieces can be cut to suit the pattern you choose; the sources do not establish a single required size.

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Grace Cloth Leaders for Hoop Quilting Frames
  • PRECISE GUIDE MARKS | The cloth leaders are marked with guides so you know how and where to attach your fabric to the cloth leaders.
  • EASILY REMOVABLE | The Cloth leaders velcro to your rails so they can easily be removed when you are pinning your fabric and easily attached to your rails when you are ready to go.
  • EASY FABRIC MANAGEMENT | Cloth Leaders make your fabric management easier. Your cloth leaders will help sandwich your fabric layers together as you quilt so you don’t have to worry about lining up your fabric as you quilt.
  • HOOP STYLE FRAMES | The Hoop Style set of cloth leaders is perfect for hoop frames. It has a chord in the cloth to help you roll and advance your fabric.
  • ROLLING RAIL FRAME | The Rolling rail frame Cloth Leaders come with two or three leaders and Velcro to attach them to your rail. The 88" cloth leader comes with two and the 112" & 136" come with three.

What the method can—and cannot—do

  • It may help with troublesome starts. A leader is particularly useful when a small piece is difficult for the feed dogs to catch at the beginning of stitching.
  • It may reduce thread tangles and long tails. Sewing onto fabric rather than beginning or ending with a bare thread path is a practical reason to try the method, not a guarantee against every nest or machine issue.
  • It does not replace sewing-machine troubleshooting. The technique is not a machine repair, and the available guidance does not establish that it suits every fabric, machine, or sewing operation.
  • There is no measured savings claim. The cited guidance is qualitative; it does not quantify time saved, thread saved, machine wear, or failure rates.

Product prices and availability are accurate as of the date/time indicated and are subject to change. Any price and availability information displayed on Amazon at the time of purchase will apply.

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