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About Richard Jenkins

Richard Jenkins is a 33-year-old Professional Painter that applies paint on the interior and exterior surfaces. Qualified in painting technology knowledge, physical fitness, stamina, teamwork, and attention to safety. Read More.


  1. JJennifer says

    Hi, do you know what’s the heat temperature for promarine epoxy? What temprature it will cured epoxy with stand in general? Thnx for the article btw, nice samples.

    • Richard Jenkins says

      As soon as epoxy is cured it’s resistance temperature will be around 135°F or ~60C as for ProMarine epoxies (but actually for any other epoxies). You could place hot cups or plates on it (no worries here), just don’t put anything straight from the oven.

  2. JohnD Mole says

    I’m about to start my first project and want to use multiple layers of resin. How soon after the first coat can I pour the second one? And how do I get rid of bubbles if they appear in between?

    • Richard Jenkins says

      Curing time is the answer. This characteristic indicates how long it takes the epoxy to harden. Depending on the product of your choice, you’ll have to wait for 12-72 hours until the surface is ready for the next layer of epoxy.

      To find out the curing time, check out the table at the beginning of this article if you opt for one of the resins recommended by us. Otherwise, look for it in the instructions that come with the kit and follow them precisely.

      When it comes to bubbles, all you need to cope with them is a heat gun. Pour the epoxy resin, leave it for approx. 5 minutes to let the bubbles emerge to the surface, and then hover the gun over them until they’re gone. Easy as that.

      Don’t hesitate for too long, though. Once the epoxy hardens, the bubbles are there to stay.

  3. frankJacob says

    Thank you for this awesome review! Tell me, please, what requirements does the wood have to meet to be used with epoxy? Can I choose any kind of wood for my project?

    • Richard Jenkins says

      To begin with, any type of wood is acceptable for epoxy crafts because resins don’t have any effect on the material’s structure. They only create a glossy protective coating.

      Before application, double-check if the wood is in good condition. Clean dirt and stains, remove splinters and bark that flakes off and take care of other imperfections.

      After that, even the surface with sandpaper or orbit sander. Clear the dust when you’re done, preferably with a vacuum cleaner. The wood should be 100% clean and dry before applying the epoxy.

    • Richard Jenkins says

      Yes, they are. It happens exceptionally fast if the resin is continually exposed to direct UV. Some epoxies include UV inhibitors allowing them to preserve crystal clarity for a long time. However, we don’t recommend you to leave river tables or other epoxy-coated objects outdoors.

      If you go with UV-protected epoxy resins and keep your DIY crafts indoors – yellowing won’t trouble you for a year or so. Also, avoid white and light-colored surfaces, yellowing is hardly noticeable on dark ones.

  4. Jennifer Engler says

    I absolutely enjoyed making a river table myself, even though I’ve spent more than 20 hours doing it 🙂 I would like to give it a neat finish. Still, I’m not sure which one to pick. Can you please help me with that? Is it even a good idea?

    • Richard Jenkins says

      It is a good idea to seal the wooden elements of the table. A suitable finish will fasten the material and make it look smooth and glossy, emphasizing the natural structure. To achieve such an effect, we prefer oil-based polishes.

      Be careful with wood stains, though. They could give your wooden craft a stunning natural look, but only if you use those BEFORE applying the epoxy. Used directly on the resin surface, a stain will color it, most likely. The result may be quite unpredictable, so we wouldn’t risk it.

  5. AS Blevins says

    So, I finished my first epoxy river table and was happy with the result at first. But then, a couple of weeks later, the bubbles began to appear. I’m confused, tbh.

    I followed the instructions precisely, set the right temperature, popped air bubbles with a heat gun, but they still surfaced in time. Could you please clarify what was my mistake and how to avoid it in the future?

    • Richard Jenkins says

      Too bad something like this had happened to your major project! The reason for this is porosity typical for a hardwood material. If not properly sealed, the pores will release air and cause bubbles to rise. You won’t experience this trouble with your future projects if you choose softwood instead.

      If you prefer hardwood even so, be sure to use a sealer on the wood before it contacts the epoxy resin. Reach out to our team, and we’ll be happy to help you choose just the right wood sealer for your particular case.

      Then you’re going to need a brush with fine bristles to apply the sealer. After 30 to 120-minute wait (depends on the product), the table is ready to be poured.

  6. Pam Lyman says

    My first attempt with the epoxy turned out to be a success – I got a clear bubble-free surface, just like I wanted. I repeated the whole procedure for the second time, following the same guidelines while mixing and pouring. I even used the same product – SRC epoxy resin, so it’s hardly at fault here. But the result was different, to put it mildly: the pour turned cloudy and bubbly. Why do you think this happened?

    • Richard Jenkins says

      We’ve all been there at some point 😉 You may have followed the same steps, but the temperature and moisture levels in the room are far from stable. They have affected the substance, most likely.

      The average recommended temperature for working with epoxy resin is around 23℃. Still, each product has different requirements, make sure to check them beforehand.

      If the environment is more chill than required, the epoxy will be full of bubbles that don’t pop no matter what you do. The resin won’t flow smoothly, coming out in chunks. Warm the bottles in the water before use and heat the room appropriately.

      Humid air may also be responsible for milky epoxy resin. It is best to keep humidity levels under 50%, which can be a tough task without an air conditioner or dehumidifier. Buying the latter won’t cost you a fortune, so we highly recommend you to do so.

      Finally, make sure the mixing supplies you use with the epoxy (such as mixing containers and sticks) are perfectly clean and dry.

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